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spritzer

High Rollers
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Everything posted by spritzer

  1. That is quite normal for these old sets and there can be a number of failure points, bad cable, corrosion inside the driver or the resistive coating on the diaphragm has started to break down.
  2. Normal 51K resistors would work just fine but I'd shoot for a non inductive unit such as the Vishay units Stax use now. They are 7W but that's even better
  3. Thanks for the update Todd! I've received dozens and dozens of emails from some very worried people so I'm glad it is back.
  4. I would place that as top tier stupidity
  5. No, not at all. The 500t is more similar to the 600ltd amp with presumably a bit lower rail voltages but still the same circuit as the T1. I have a 700t here and it is terrible in stock form, just awful. Utterly lifeless but adding a CCS really transforms the thing into something decent.
  6. No, not at all but they are very sensitive to static which is the most likely culprit
  7. I've fixed at least five of these over the years, all with bad mosfets so they just fail. Once swapped out the amps spring to life.
  8. The T1S and T1W are pretty much identical in every way, there is just a connection off the volume pot to create a passive preamp. There is also no benefit to the variable bias as it doesn't go above 580V.
  9. The rest of the driver will also probably fall apart as the glue is so fragile and you will end up with dead drivers.
  10. There is a good point of view to have in life, never buy anything from Hifiman!
  11. spritzer

    Abyss Phi TC

    They are single ended planars, is anybody expecting a sane amount of distortion?
  12. The RK50 is only available in 10K as a stereo unit, the quad's are always 50K AFAIK.
  13. NB just gives you lower potential, so a weaker electrostatic field, hence less control over all. The top end is the hardest to reproduce with electrostatics so it will have a large impact.
  14. Those things are terrible, do not use them for a bias supply. They are noisy beyond belief.
  15. I would be very skeptical of any FR graphs for the 007's, they are next to impossible to measure correctly. Ohh and that conclusion is completely false... I did order up a new 007A which should be here soon. Let's see if Stax changed anything.
  16. You would have to make a bias supply from scratch as there is nothing you can simply tap into here.
  17. I hadn't heard anything about a new version but I might pick one up and try it out. Always an excuse...
  18. If there is enough copper there to solder a wire to, then it can be fixed but I've come across some units which were beyond hope.
  19. This is the 240V setting. If you wouldn't move the white wire the transformer would be set to 220V which isn't a great idea these days. That picture of the wires doesn't tell us anything as the windings entering the transformer are not visible. Just pull off the PCB or use a volt meter to measure between blue and brown and then green and purple. Should be a few ohms but if you have nothing... then the windings have been cut.
  20. Remove both black jumpers, move the left hand white wire to the empty spot above the blue wire (so from brown to blue) and finally, put in a new jumper between gray and purple. Also, make sure the gray and blue wires actually go inside the transformer and aren't cut off. Either measure continuity between the next wires or remove the blue PCB on top of the transformer for a visual inspection.
  21. The caps are in series. You can even use 350V caps in most cases...
  22. It's been too long since I've had one here to be but sure but here is the schematic:
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