spritzer

Well this was in 2003 and they were cheaper back then. The Ti knob has been done, it's on my T2.

You can do that if you like smoke rising from the amp.

Truly not sure how to fix this as there is no space to work with or any good through hole pads. A first glance I thought they had stacked two 300V supplies as that would make perfect sense. Then I saw it had just two diodes...

400V or 450V will work and two PCB's? No but you need to modify the one PSU to output more current.

That was the point.

Well I'm one to talk, I don't think I'd ever be called petite...

Now that's a watch!!

They sound ok now and I think new pads might turn them into something good. Running them right now off this 007tA that is just now running 6S4A's and it sounds very nice indeed. One thing that has come up are the bias issues. I don't doubt that these were designed for 450V as they really don't like Pro bias after a while. This is just off the KingSound amp though as it runs just fine off both Stax and our DIY amps. I think it has to do with the PSU in the M-10 as it is just fucked. They pop like mad when I turn it off...

Yuo, 0.5V is the first production version and that one is 100% correct albeit huge.

Well the dust cover is stretched tight onto the back grill so it's not helping matters. It's needs to be thin and wrinkled to work properly and right next to the driver.

Those might work and as it happens, there is a Hifi-Man dealer that I know...

110mm work as these are pretty big. It will be interesting to see what effect suede has though. How much does it actually seal. The KingSound M-10 is in pieces here while being upgraded so I'm using the Stax SRM-252S. A huge improvement...

It's not that you can't get it to zero out, it's just how different the voltages are at power on.

I'll take that challenge!!!!

These are 90mm (the distributor had some) so they won't work. A shame since I could have them for free....

It's something for us to work towards. Goes off to calculate just how much booze I'd have to ingest....

Nope, nothing yet. Everything was pushed aside for KGSSHV work... SMD version would be very cool given how bloddy small we could make it. Hell let's make a portable one which would last for about 5 minutes on a set of batteries. But what glorious 5 minutes it would be...

Nope and won't order for a while.

What do you mean +/-12V? You should just put the +15V line to the + pole through a dropping resistor (I use 300ohm) and the - is connected to ground. Two switches dieing is not normal as I've used some 50 switches and no issues.

Those need to be tapped for screws which is why I prefer not to use them. Just extra work and a bit annoying to use.

I've had to do that... Still if this PSU fails in a non spectacular sense then it's best to just start replacing the sand. Start with the pass fets and then go the rounds on the board.

I'd go for the 2.5" instead.

I'd love to try those AD2000 pads.

Yeah, sorry about that. Shrinking that part of the PSU board was especially difficult...

Anything Sennheiser will be easy to source. I'll look into it and access their service info... Sounds like a plan. The build looks good with smaller opening.