Yes, 6c33 is just awesome in what Andy is doing. Using 6P3S-E in a 900V amp is just untold amounts of stupid. Just because some idiot on the net claims this tube is similar to the EL34 doesn't make it so. It's a lower spec version of the 6L6 and is not compatible.
Renesas made these but they are discontinued now. If the manufacturer had any stock then we'd buy it... all.
I'd love to see examples of where these fake parts are used and how that is going.
The stators are insulated so that is not likely. The issue is also present with the phones unplugged and that can only be a diaphragm issue. The stators hold no charge...
I had something similar happen with one of my Dynalo's. It oscillated a bit depending on where the input cable was positioned underneath the pcb. This is well away from any AC source and the chassis is grounded so very odd indeed. The TKD pot might have been the culprit though given their odd construction.
Nope, I even hate doing that to my own sets. One set I'm about to sell has this in both drivers but I just can't get rid of it. Still it's not always there and this is with the glued Lambda drivers so almost impossible to clean.
Only one cause for that, there is some dust that has entered the driver. Takes a lot of patience and skill to get rid of that. Pretty much impossible in the standard Lambda drivers prior to this generation...
Spent most of yesterday looking for that in the number of sets I'm about to put up for sale.
The 323S would be an excellent choice. Only upgrade to that at a sane price would be any of the T1/006t amps upgraded to ECC99 or the TOTL amps from Stax modified.
Speaking of which, the modified SRM-007tII doesn't have a chance in hell of driving these Sigma Nova Signatures... Too tired to fire up the BHSE though.
Nope, except our mantra of MOAR!!!!
I've been on a bit of a counter swing to that today as I was doing some inventory and realized I had way too much crap. Assembling and testing Stax headphones from parts can be fun... until one doesn't work as it should.
Yup that's it. A couple of drivers that most people would have thrown out fitted to the most expensive frame money can't buy.
The 404LE is a bit more refined but the tone is similar.
The 323S is the better amp than the 252S but the small one is damn good for something so tiny. The major limitations don't show up until you start to push it.
Same headband used on both though the head pad is different. The earpads on the 207 are roughly the same thickness but vinyl so not as nice. The 207 is also a bit lighter given the less substantial cable.
I'd stay away from the SRM-600 given the very high failure rate. It's always the plate resistors that die so they could just be replaced but that's pretty much the amount of work needed to change a T1/006t to use ECC99's so hardly worth the price difference.
The Koss isn't a bad choice. Simply upgrading the wall wart for the E/90 amp won't make a dramatic difference so your best bet is always a Stax amp. Even cheaper is the Stax SRS-2170 which is pretty much untouchable at that price. Sounds far better than the 307 too and the Japanese units are easy to use with a domestic 12VDC psu modified for the correct pinout.
Any of the Lambda Nova units would also be a good choice but many of them aren't aging all that well. The adhesive used is acting up and the pleather parts are flaking or even worse. Some of my favorite headphones ever though and my main set these days is pretty much a Nova Signature.
Here is the problem, which type of Philips is that? There are two main types and some other less well known versions. That's why we like those boxes full of assorted bits...