spritzer

The stators are insulated so that is not likely. The issue is also present with the phones unplugged and that can only be a diaphragm issue. The stators hold no charge...

I had something similar happen with one of my Dynalo's. It oscillated a bit depending on where the input cable was positioned underneath the pcb. This is well away from any AC source and the chassis is grounded so very odd indeed. The TKD pot might have been the culprit though given their odd construction.

It's the second coming, that's why.

I know they either had to dig some more out of storage or make some more recently. The software used by Senn showed no stock in Germany...

I bought a headpad via the Icelandic distributor not that long ago and I can go in a check if they can order more.

Both are very good suggestions. Small holes in the dust covers can be patched up with some clear tape.

It's more about replacing with a known quantity, a set they know works.

Yup, they just replace them. No attempts ever made to fix drivers...

Nope, I even hate doing that to my own sets. One set I'm about to sell has this in both drivers but I just can't get rid of it. Still it's not always there and this is with the glued Lambda drivers so almost impossible to clean.

Only one cause for that, there is some dust that has entered the driver. Takes a lot of patience and skill to get rid of that. Pretty much impossible in the standard Lambda drivers prior to this generation... Spent most of yesterday looking for that in the number of sets I'm about to put up for sale.

The 323S would be an excellent choice. Only upgrade to that at a sane price would be any of the T1/006t amps upgraded to ECC99 or the TOTL amps from Stax modified. Speaking of which, the modified SRM-007tII doesn't have a chance in hell of driving these Sigma Nova Signatures... Too tired to fire up the BHSE though.

Nope, except our mantra of MOAR!!!! I've been on a bit of a counter swing to that today as I was doing some inventory and realized I had way too much crap. Assembling and testing Stax headphones from parts can be fun... until one doesn't work as it should.

Ahh that makes sense, cut corners where the damage can be huge. Gotta love government thinking...

Yup that's it. A couple of drivers that most people would have thrown out fitted to the most expensive frame money can't buy. The 404LE is a bit more refined but the tone is similar. The 323S is the better amp than the 252S but the small one is damn good for something so tiny. The major limitations don't show up until you start to push it. Same headband used on both though the head pad is different. The earpads on the 207 are roughly the same thickness but vinyl so not as nice. The 207 is also a bit lighter given the less substantial cable.

Glad to hear you are all safe as this has been followed closely here. I baked some "landmine" cookies in your honor though...

The SR-404 is identical and the SR-SC1 and SR-404LE are all similar sounding, though the latter are quite a bit superior.

I'd stay away from the SRM-600 given the very high failure rate. It's always the plate resistors that die so they could just be replaced but that's pretty much the amount of work needed to change a T1/006t to use ECC99's so hardly worth the price difference. The Koss isn't a bad choice. Simply upgrading the wall wart for the E/90 amp won't make a dramatic difference so your best bet is always a Stax amp. Even cheaper is the Stax SRS-2170 which is pretty much untouchable at that price. Sounds far better than the 307 too and the Japanese units are easy to use with a domestic 12VDC psu modified for the correct pinout. Any of the Lambda Nova units would also be a good choice but many of them aren't aging all that well. The adhesive used is acting up and the pleather parts are flaking or even worse. Some of my favorite headphones ever though and my main set these days is pretty much a Nova Signature.

Here is the problem, which type of Philips is that? There are two main types and some other less well known versions. That's why we like those boxes full of assorted bits...

The SRM-1 Mk2 has only 4 output devices so the current sources are resistors. Even on the SRA-14S (released 3 years later) this was still the case (though the circuit is far more complicated as a whole) and it wasn't until the SRM-X that they moved to transistors. They did progressively turn down the bias current though so the amps run cooler.

All the Stax amps have used Jfet inputs since the early 70's. The 313 used the J109 dual fet until it was discontinued and replaced with matched pairs of J74's (which is just what a J109 was, matched J74's) thermally coupled.

There are at least two main versions, the one with the normal bias and the one that is Pro bias only. Both have the side mounted PCB but there were some small changes to the chassis such as went holes on the back. There are also some that look a lot like the 323 inside (pcb sitting on the bottom of the chassis) but I've never seen one up close to know if it's really a 323 in an old style chassis or just the first redesign to get around the discontinued dual jfets at the time. This is Stax though so there could be other revisions that nobody knows about. The SR-2 above doesn't exist officially yet, there is one.

That's pretty much as rare as they come. There is nothing there but a fire hazard. The person doing that has zero clue as can be seen from the axial power caps haphazardly mounted or the local PSU film bypass caps in the amp stage replaced with some audiophile crap.

Did you export the edge?

We need to melt down that silver into something useful..

Here something funny, an upgrade service for Stax tube amps... T1 and variants 007t and variants Not so sure about this clusterfuck...