spritzer

For this one then yes. I was matching the Idss for the LL1 as that's how the stock units are matched.

I bought some and the Idss is all over the place. No way to get any matches from those 8.

Changing from the J176 to tightly matched J74's was not a subtle change in the LL1. All matched to identical specs...

Those look real enough and are from the last production run.

All amps are auto bias for most of HF...

When I got my ES-1 I looked up some rolling guide and I stared at it in disbelief. Turns out Woo are just as bad a SP when it comes to the rolling...

I do have some SP tube adapters here.... More interested in just designing new amps for these tubes, not simply dropping them into old circuits.

Perhaps a better and far cheaper option would be the GU50. Dirt cheap and supposedly very reliable...

We demand pics!!!!

No, Keen Ocean. Same as the ones used in the Eddie Current crapola. Typical Chinese OEM, you can get them dirt cheap but once you set strict standards in terms of temp rise etc. then they get a lot more expensive. As it stands now I foresee having to build about 10 KGSSHV's to test new parts and just to burn up my own stock of boards. A SumR transformer would cost about 270$ all inclusive (trafo, shipping and tax/fees top of both) and these are far cheaper plus better made and with higher spec.

Well at least I'm making sure you are in good form.

I just really like to buy in bulk and be able to build something at the drop of a hat. That's what bodies are for... we are the mafia after all. Wouldn't help me a whole lot though on a FWD car...

Does anybody think this is a bit too much? I was tired of buying transformers piece by piece when most of my other parts are bought it bulk. Well... I decided to buy some transformers in bulk. The truly bizarre bit is that this whole lot (about 130kg) was shipped via EMS to me. They are 335-420V@160mA (50 pieces) and 450V@160mA (10 units) plus the necessary low voltage stuff. Btw. I stopped selling Alpha pots a while back as my stock was diminished. Now I've restocked again so feel free to contact me if you need any 50K quad pots.

The max voltage of 450V does mean it isn't terribly useful for that role. That and this tubes peculiarities (long warm up time) means it doesn't make a whole lot of sense. Now the KT150 would be fun to tinker with if you like heat... I for one don't care if you blow up your amp, that's your problem entirely. What I do care about is people reading that and thinking this tube is a sub when it clearly isn't suitable in any way. This amp is supposed to use El34/6CA7 and no other tubes. Not KT88, KT77, 6550, KT66. KT90, KT120 or KT150. I love the "HS!" markings Kevin put in there...

There is using something that is under spec and then using something which is nothing like the intended tube, far lower voltage and a different bias point. Most of the Stax amps are great to excellent but hamstrung by what they can do. The 007tA I'm using right now is awesome simply by changing the tubes to 6S4A's.

Happy Birthday

Yes, 6c33 is just awesome in what Andy is doing. Using 6P3S-E in a 900V amp is just untold amounts of stupid. Just because some idiot on the net claims this tube is similar to the EL34 doesn't make it so. It's a lower spec version of the 6L6 and is not compatible.

Happy Birthday Tom!!

I'm not even going to start about how stupid it is to use those Russian tubes in this amp.

Ehhh these are mosfets so they do need anti-static bags. Only the pink plastic bags are anti-static AFAIK...

Renesas made these but they are discontinued now. If the manufacturer had any stock then we'd buy it... all. I'd love to see examples of where these fake parts are used and how that is going.

If you are careful then it is possible.

Just lift up the cloth cover on the ear side. That will reveal the dustcover.

The stators are insulated so that is not likely. The issue is also present with the phones unplugged and that can only be a diaphragm issue. The stators hold no charge...

I had something similar happen with one of my Dynalo's. It oscillated a bit depending on where the input cable was positioned underneath the pcb. This is well away from any AC source and the chassis is grounded so very odd indeed. The TKD pot might have been the culprit though given their odd construction.