spritzer

18.5mm or so for the larger style plug.

He sure did.

The heat sink is rated at 0.45°C/W each so it should work.

The modushop 2U/300mm chassis should work just fine for this but then we need split boards. I also prefer to use angle brackets to hold the boards in place. Makes testing that much easier. Also makes the PSU easier to deal with as there isn't a chance in hell we can make it fit into 300*200mm.

I'll take a stab at cleaning up the board too. I think it would be best to have a left and right version of the board instead of one large one unless we can find a chassis that works for this.

It's been 7+ years since I opened up either of them so I can't remember how you do it. It's a late one so the amplifier will at least work as it should.

I like that build. Nice tube you used too. Are there hoards of these to be found in Japan anywhere?

I know I will build one.

Yes but rated to only 400V compared to the 600V 1486.

I'll check them out. If they are 105°C, with a decent load lifetime and indeed made by Rubycon this could be good.

I love it, 1000V on hand etched PCB's. I only have the onboard version and it is the latest design available. They are 120$ for the set plus shipping. As for the difference, sure they are different but the KGSSHV is a highly capable amplifier in its own right. The T2 is utter overkill in every way.

The DHT amp I have on the back burner is a SE design so transformers needed to use it for Stax. Still it will be a test bed for filament supplies and how to deal with that clusterfuck. On the other side of the spectrum I have an Egmont PCB ready that is just 105*95mm for a stereo board. ECC83's and 6N6pi for a truly cheap, fully balanced amp.

T2 is better but also something like 5-10 times the cost. I have PCB's for the KGSSHV. We need inside pics of the T2.

Yeah... nothing but greed!!! Justin needs to do a new 4K$ PSU for the BHSE though. Regulated bias, KGSSHV psu and DC for the heaters, fully regulated.

More like 15K$ these days. I have enough parts for at least a dozen of them but hell no that I'll build more than two.

For me it is just more fun to attack the low end and try to make something that's easy to build and/or gives a lot of bang for the buck. Going for the top means the complexity is multiplied and things get very expensive, very quickly. Not many people have the skill or the funds needed to build something like that so it comes some mythical design that everybody might lust after but is of little use to them. That said, there are some ideas for super high end amps that have been brought up over the years which will be finished at some point in the future. Kevin did promise some people that Mjölnir Audio will make a 10K$ amp so we need something crazy for that pricetag....

The avalanche voltage i.e. the actual voltage of that individual diode. I wouldn't bother though, nothing wrong with having the PSU a bit unbalanced. Hell all of the Stax amps are like that by design...

Either that or just DL the rips off the web.

We could do one amp to rule them all but what would be the fun in that...

The lack of a proper dust cover on the back of the Lambda Signature is the culprit. It uses the woven mesh but no thick layer of mineral wool to keep everything out of the driver.

Compressed air and Stax drivers do not mix!!! The film Stax use for dust covers is very fragile so holes in them after some use are not uncommon.

A 3U unit has a lot of air in it so you should be fine without a fully vented bottom. I hate those inner bases and my bottom panels always look perfect. :´)

The squeal? Dust or some debris inside the driver making a partial short between the diaphragm and stator causing the diaphragm to oscillate.

007Mk1 or the SR-Omega do make the difference more apparent. Also choice of music is a factor but at the end of the day the KGSSHV is pretty fucking awesome.

It could be a noisy pot in one channel but this sounds a lot like driver squeal.