spritzer

Indeed and this also changes with the actual tubes used. 1k5 with a 1K pot should work for most tubes but at +/-400V you might need to go lower. 1k37 is what I use in my amps. Those jumpers will work just fine and we are far away from an volcanic activity so it will be fine.

I think I want one of those. Variable bias Class A from Sony. Never thought I'd see the day...

The transformer could have a shield tap and that is connected to ground. If you don't connect the low voltage CT then you have just a single 32V winding and that won't work.

Zeners are +/-10% at the best of times so 600V isn't too bad. Most of mine are around 570V which is just about perfect.

They are just DIP jumpers and can be found everywhere. The ones I used I got off ebay some years ago but Mouser should have something like that. It could be years or it could be tomorrow when we see some action there but the aftermath can be pretty bad when the flash flood comes from under the glacier. That particular volcano last went active in 1996 and I visited the result of the flash flood to the south side of the island. Icebergs the size of houses scattered around a huge region with most of the infrastructure washed away. Nobody lives there though and all the roads, bridges and power lines are designed to break away and be replaced quickly.

Do not ground the high voltage CT!!!!!!! That's what you are doing wrong. It's only there for transformers for high voltage windings with CT's where we would use the entire winding for the single supply.

That is the + output side so you shouldn't get - anything there

Happy Birthday Tyll!!!!

They are being driven off the +/-15V rails so anything above 25V works just fine.

He also quotes the fucktard David Mahler as some sort of a source for information on headphones and whether they are any good or not.

Yup and on the KGDT it's used to change the current on the CCS.

I do what I can to lift your spirits...

Waiting on some 1N914 diodes (my stash from 2004 finally ran out) but the KGDT if just about ready for testing: Shown next to the new KGST boards, a smaller version of the group buy boards. The difference is not great but I had to shave off a few millimeters to get them into a chassis I bought.

Just not suitable in any way. If you go higher than ca. 150Vp-p then bad things will happen to the TakeT. The crappy components inside the capsules can't take much more than that.

They are a direct match but check the pinout. I would match them personally but the amp will function without matching them.

No.

Is that the Accuphase fanclub?

GBU810 is fine for this and no need to match anything except the input fets if you are using single units.

The 1uf cap has to be 25V+ so anything with 15mm lead spacing will work. I use 250V Panasonic caps which fit perfectly into the footprint. Kevin posted the part number either here or in the KGSSHV thread. The 100nf caps should be rated to handle the B+/B- plus a bit of headroom. We've normally used 1000V caps here but 630V also works. The rating of the input fets doesn't matter, just as long as they are the same grade on both channels. I normally use LSK389 B series and BL grade 2SK170's. Now that the BL units are almost finished I'm moving to my GR stock. Here are the heatsinks, big one for the CCS and pass transistors: 532-530002B02500G and the small one for the 10m90 CCS in the PSU: 532-581002B02500G Remember to order the proper insulation pads, shoulder washers and you also need 6/32" screws (either nylon or peek) for the small sinks.

Forgot about that particular bit of madness.

The balance pot should always be 2K but the offset needs to change with the voltage. Last one I built used 1K pot and 1.37K resistors at 400V but 1.5K should be fine at 350V. This resistor has to be 1/2W and higher wattage doesn't hurt as it gets hot. 24V is better so use that. Those are the correct LED's. Yup, we forgot to change the zener string values.

All amps sound the same -Peter J. Walker

Parts on backwards, pads screwed in place, pads backward and the spring missing.

Yup, that would be the fart. Could be worse that usual on that set. I've seen some massive stupidity recently with the 007's and replacement parts.

Alcohol works unless the diaphragms have suffered some sun damage so they are too fragile. Also look for oxidation on the bias contacts. That was 4+ years ago but I probably just copied what ever Stax did on the + input.