spritzer

I've dropped the front labels on most if not all of my amps for a cleaner look. Now the labeling will be on the back:

You can't do most of this stuff without a drill press but I do need a new one with more reach. This one is older than I am...

Not bad old man!!! I guess this means I have to build mine? I sure could use the NC mill having done 7 front panels by hand today... The B22 stuff will do just fine but you can build this amp without any matching and it will work just fine.

Good call to abandon the PSU board. On a more positive note, look what my spare desk looks like these days: Soak test plus seeing how the servo behaves. Finally getting the hang of assembling these though it is still very tricky: These are all reserved but I do have one of these sitting in the US that I really don't want to send back here.

It's good advise to not mess too much with the PSU. One of my amps had the HV- rail go bad and I just scrapped it for parts and threw the rest away.

I'm sure somebody has matched J74's for sale. Has to be...

They were all way off for me.

The drivers are actually very different in size with the HE90 having a surface area that's roughly 50% larger. The HE60 uses some kind of plastic for the drivers which is then painted with the same gold paint as they used on the HE90 drivers to make them conductive.

Electrostatics don't care about DC so that's probably not the problem. 3299 or 3296 both work well plus all the alternatives from other manufacturers.

Happy Birthday!!!

Hell 10K$ for the headphones would be doable but this is insane. I bet the Icelandic distributor is kicking himself now for promising me the best deal possible when I ordered something next time...

It's not a bug, it's a feature.

Yes, the amp should be zero'd out when running at full temp and then powered off and the servo engaged.

What I've been hearing is a combo deal and select "Orpheus Club" dealers only.

The volume level should have nothing to do with this. The amp always burns relatively the same amount of power regardless of how hard you drive it. If the offset pot failes then yes, the phones could be damaged. We have protection built in should it happen though.

Sennheiser celebrates its 70th in May 2015 so there will be a new high end model. By that I mean high end, the 009 is dirt cheap compared to it. With the SR-Omega the external screen is clearly there to add a bit of reverb and thus EQ. Here it's just that they want to make the more expensive H3 sound better with the more open area. They showed with the H1 that the dispersion pattern of electrostatics isn't something they truly comprehend as dumping this much backwave back through the driver will never sound good.

It's exactly the same unless it's one of the new HV's which have a servo. Then the procedure is the same but the servo has to be defeated first. Only make adjustments after the amp has warmed up. For a 500V unit that can be an hour or more.

Makes note to put more pots backwards in the future...

A sound like that is almost always due to a noisy trimpot. Some of the first Alpha pots weren't as smooth as the latter ones. A bit of screaming at the company fixed that...

It really doesn't matter which way they face.

I broke down and ripped the KS-H2 apart after the right side buzzing got very loud and violent (the cup vibrated due to the osculations). We start off well as this is the back of the baffle. Some lessons learned here as this neoprene foam makes a nice seal when compressed. The cable termination is very neat and tidy but here is the first major WTF moment. It's a bit hard to see in that pic but the driver is placed backwards in a bit of a tunnel. Not a good idea with tranducers which radiate in a figure 8 pattern. Stax got away with in the 007 as the opening on the stators are much smaller than the size of the diaphragm. Hence the dispersion pattern never hits a wall. Here we have he cup and the back of the driver. First off, thanks King Sound for being fucktards. The drivers are glued shut so not only are they noisier than a 30 year old Stax set but I can't fucking fix it without having a good chance of fucking up the drivers. Second bit, notice that the drivers are larger than the opening on the back of the cups. Another brilliant bit of engineering which that neoprene ring will not fix.

I'd have said "1000 hours and you need an unobtanium cable..."

1W resistor wouldn't go amiss there but resistor ratings are a bit of a hit and miss at the best of times. Take Mills for instance, they should never see even half their rated wattage but a Vishay CCF60 can be abused no end.

Sure but spending 20$ to fix a non issue is a bit off isn't it?

No, that's not a good idea as you don't want the pot to dissipate all that heat.