spritzer

We want everybody stay at 350V. 400V is most certainly a "do this at your own risk" affair.

With the right tools then it is certainly possible to build this without much trouble. Stick with a good soldering iron with a small chisel tip, thin solder wire (I use 0.5mm) and taking care to only use as little solder as it possible. Also cut the leads after soldering up close to the PCB as the density of these boards is reaching silly levels so pads can be very close together but should not be connected. The main issue would be the heatsinks and how to assemble them properly. The full B+ sits on the 10M90 transistor tab so this needs to be insulated. As for the rail voltages, the amp is supposed to run at +/-350V but I usually run them at 400V. No real improvement by doing that but I've been using up my scrap BHSE transformers which can't deal with that load. Ohh and this amp eats the 717 for breakfast... Lowest I've dared to go for standoffs is 6mm and then the boards fit in a 2U chassis but I have to select what tubes to use. Parmetal might have some boxes that work better as they aren't as fixed into the 40/80/120mm sizes.

You assume that I cared enough to read your posts but I didn't.

Why on earth would we do that? This is a clone so the board will stay exactly as Krell left it.

That would be customs. Been down that road many times but USPS tracking is the worst.

Yeah, spotted the hole snafu when resizing the board over the weekend.

Less voltage swing and power aside, there are none.

Only places I've ever used the OPA2604 was in the only cmoy I ever built (good project to do after building a Blue Hawaii or two) and when upgrading the Stax SRM-300 amps. Better than the stock LF353...

It offsets my petite stature...

Post count means nothing here and it shouldn't mean anything... ever. We welcome any good engineering but swapping caps really doesn't cut it here.

This is what we use for 1.7V led: 859-LTL-307ELC Also the footprint for the resistors on this one is 0.5 and not 0.6 as on most of the other designs.

No need to get personal but Jensen caps are overpriced garbage. They are just expensive with gold printing on black which has to mean they are good. If you want to improve the SRM-323 then regulate the power supply, increase the output stage bias and add a servo. They are actually real circuit improvements which is what we do here

Well yeah and there are subtle changes elsewhere but they are small enough to be blown out of proportions by the changes in temperature.

It's a SRX based amp with probably an added phono stage. It's a good circuit but the modern ESX version is so much better.

There is only one thing to be said about this post and that is....

That's a very open ended question with no real answer.

It's quite clear to anybody when they touch this thing how "hot" it is running. For the record this one is running at 9mA which is what the old KGSS ran at. The whole "MOAR CURRENTZ!!!" issue is not something I'd like to play up as I'd dare anybody to double blind two identical amps and tell me which is which. 5.5mA means the amp stays in Class A at all times so more current as making some drastic difference is over rated. When we started with the KGSSHV this was discussed quite a bit as I wanted onboard sinks but Kevin pushed for offboard only. He relented only after it was clear the amp would be just fine at the lower current, hell we could make a portable version and it would still be good.

Buy a GS-X Mk2?

It's hard enough for people to accept "no RCA's???" so a custom connector wouldn't be an option. For balanced dynamics 5 pins is the only option though.

I'll make a couple of black ones though I'm vary of the finishing the chassis maker uses. If I use my normal degreaser then the panels turn green...

I've dropped the front labels on most if not all of my amps for a cleaner look. Now the labeling will be on the back:

You can't do most of this stuff without a drill press but I do need a new one with more reach. This one is older than I am...

Not bad old man!!! I guess this means I have to build mine? I sure could use the NC mill having done 7 front panels by hand today... The B22 stuff will do just fine but you can build this amp without any matching and it will work just fine.

Good call to abandon the PSU board. On a more positive note, look what my spare desk looks like these days: Soak test plus seeing how the servo behaves. Finally getting the hang of assembling these though it is still very tricky: These are all reserved but I do have one of these sitting in the US that I really don't want to send back here.

It's good advise to not mess too much with the PSU. One of my amps had the HV- rail go bad and I just scrapped it for parts and threw the rest away.