spritzer

I knew you'd like it. It's funny though that the 136$ SET kit I've been playing with has a better PSU design than this pile of fail. A good point is the "DC" supply for the 5751 heaters. That's not how you are supposed to do it...

I like the silver look. You could contact Modushop as they will sell you silver side panels.

Looking good!!! That SumR looks awfully small though...

Behold the glory...

Looks to be the same case but I just pulled them from my pile of boxes. A note though, the KGST boards from the group buy will not fit in this box. The ones I used were specially made to fit it and they just barely do so. Also it runs hot... too hot. Chassis is at 43°C above ambient so I'll have to fabricate new top panels for these amps. The fuse rating depends on the transformer used. The amp draws about 60W.

Happy Birthday!!!

Yes.

Here they are together. KGSSHV mini quite a bit smaller. As for the sound they are very similar. The ST is a bit warmer and more fluid but that's it. Just look at the Antek units as they are all oversized so the pro's are less heat, less noise from the transformer but the negative is more inrush current and more overhead for the PSU to deal with as heat. Yup, it uses the chassis as a heatsink but this is a special version of the PSU.

For any filament or heater supply you have to regulate the DC which DNA doesn't do. A simple LT1083 supply would be great for heaters (a 7805 with a diode on the ground terminal also works just fine) but for DHT filaments you need a high frequency switcher to get optimal tube life. These tubes were never supposed to use AC for the heaters as a tube like the 300B was supposed to use batteries for the filament. It's what they had at the time and explains the low voltage.

That is a lot of cinnamon....

This one was just fired up. To say it was a tight squeeze into that box would be putting it mildly... Utterly oversized transformer courtesy of my Chinese supplier.

This has nothing to do with liking how something sounds. Plenty of people like Hifi-man and Ultrasone headphones even though they are dreadful. Just flip over the Stratus and look inside, the cheapest possible iron which everybody agrees makes or breaks an amp. Lousy circuit design and a "DC" filament supply which will burn up the tubes. What's not to like....?

DNA Stratus? It's firmly on the the "what idiot threw this together" scale....

Yeah, clueless people usually do.

Most of the work done on the mini in the last few months has been to monitor the temp and seeing how it behaves in warmer climates. It runs at about 20-25°C over ambient and is a bit warmer inside. Not too bad.

Ohh please enlighten me about these magical "inductors" and their properties. We were all so hopelessly lost until you came along...

A rather idiotic cunt...

Given that it is about the same size as the SRM-323 and pushes the SR-Omega I'm using now with ease... I'd say so too.

I got the black boxes so I'll drop them off to be etched soon. Then we'll see if the finish holds up... The one Tyll got has 4 outputs. No chance to do two of them on the mini HV as there just isn't enough room. It's very cramped in there...

I predict new puppy will chew said new iphone...

That can't be done so it would be a long time waiting... Not interested in putting NB outputs on my amps though I do get requests.

Yes, it's still good.

Takes all the fun out of it though...

No load for the PSU needed. It's regulated so you will see pretty much the same numbers with and without the amplifier boards present. The trimpot is a voltage divider and thus adjusts the bias supplies voltage doubler potential. All the GND connections are connected together on the ground plane on the PSU PCB. These aren't connected to chassis by default so you need to run a wire to the chassis, either direct or through a ground loop breaker. I for one always go direct. For the amp boards, each one has one wire to the PSU ground, don't connect them to the chassis as that will generate ground loops. No need to conect input or outputs when testing Also remember to power off before inserting the servo opamp. Better yet would be tom use the jumper in the position marked "servo"

For the record, I bought those Exstata board sets that were on HF. It's mostly so we can measure them and add it to the database of measured amps as I will build both of them using the same parts. The psu is garbage and that was pointed out to Alex time and time again but he's too idiotic to see reason. I sure as hell won't be using the PSU boards as the KGSSHV mini PSU is smaller and far better. Either raise the voltage rails or push more current through it. You will need new heatsinks for the transistors though.