spritzer

Post count means nothing here and it shouldn't mean anything... ever. We welcome any good engineering but swapping caps really doesn't cut it here.

This is what we use for 1.7V led: 859-LTL-307ELC Also the footprint for the resistors on this one is 0.5 and not 0.6 as on most of the other designs.

No need to get personal but Jensen caps are overpriced garbage. They are just expensive with gold printing on black which has to mean they are good. If you want to improve the SRM-323 then regulate the power supply, increase the output stage bias and add a servo. They are actually real circuit improvements which is what we do here

Well yeah and there are subtle changes elsewhere but they are small enough to be blown out of proportions by the changes in temperature.

It's a SRX based amp with probably an added phono stage. It's a good circuit but the modern ESX version is so much better.

There is only one thing to be said about this post and that is....

That's a very open ended question with no real answer.

It's quite clear to anybody when they touch this thing how "hot" it is running. For the record this one is running at 9mA which is what the old KGSS ran at. The whole "MOAR CURRENTZ!!!" issue is not something I'd like to play up as I'd dare anybody to double blind two identical amps and tell me which is which. 5.5mA means the amp stays in Class A at all times so more current as making some drastic difference is over rated. When we started with the KGSSHV this was discussed quite a bit as I wanted onboard sinks but Kevin pushed for offboard only. He relented only after it was clear the amp would be just fine at the lower current, hell we could make a portable version and it would still be good.

Buy a GS-X Mk2?

It's hard enough for people to accept "no RCA's???" so a custom connector wouldn't be an option. For balanced dynamics 5 pins is the only option though.

I'll make a couple of black ones though I'm vary of the finishing the chassis maker uses. If I use my normal degreaser then the panels turn green...

I've dropped the front labels on most if not all of my amps for a cleaner look. Now the labeling will be on the back:

You can't do most of this stuff without a drill press but I do need a new one with more reach. This one is older than I am...

Not bad old man!!! I guess this means I have to build mine? I sure could use the NC mill having done 7 front panels by hand today... The B22 stuff will do just fine but you can build this amp without any matching and it will work just fine.

Good call to abandon the PSU board. On a more positive note, look what my spare desk looks like these days: Soak test plus seeing how the servo behaves. Finally getting the hang of assembling these though it is still very tricky: These are all reserved but I do have one of these sitting in the US that I really don't want to send back here.

It's good advise to not mess too much with the PSU. One of my amps had the HV- rail go bad and I just scrapped it for parts and threw the rest away.

I'm sure somebody has matched J74's for sale. Has to be...

They were all way off for me.

The drivers are actually very different in size with the HE90 having a surface area that's roughly 50% larger. The HE60 uses some kind of plastic for the drivers which is then painted with the same gold paint as they used on the HE90 drivers to make them conductive.

Electrostatics don't care about DC so that's probably not the problem. 3299 or 3296 both work well plus all the alternatives from other manufacturers.

Happy Birthday!!!

Hell 10K$ for the headphones would be doable but this is insane. I bet the Icelandic distributor is kicking himself now for promising me the best deal possible when I ordered something next time...

It's not a bug, it's a feature.

Yes, the amp should be zero'd out when running at full temp and then powered off and the servo engaged.

What I've been hearing is a combo deal and select "Orpheus Club" dealers only.