spritzer

I bought 1000 of each type because... well I'm nuts. I've spent way too much on transistors this month though....

She's a classy lady so she said no but her baby sister was ok with it... These two cousins are simply waiting on screws to secure the XLR sockets... Bigger sinks so MOAR CURRENTZ

For fucks sake.... Ohh well, back to finding replacements.

That driver is a bit of an odd duck, a cross between the first version and the look we have to this day. If you took out the diaphragm then you have to make sure that no spacers were moved out of place or that the diaphragm went back in the same way. If not then you will have problems. As for plastics and electrostatics, some are just fine but others aren't really suitable.

Thanks. The black panels are an extra headache to work on but I like a challenge. It's a bit nuts to think about but I've built 20 mini KGSSHV's at this point in three different sizes... That's in about 6 months or so. If I ever send an amp to a show of any kind then it will have a lexan top panel. Heavily ventilated naturally but it would be a nice fuck you to those who hide the internals.

Something new emerged last night.... Does look kinda cool in black.

Mono FTW!!!!

I'd never, ever touch the diaphragm with my bare fingers. Nothing good can come of that. The tape can leave residue which can arc the drivers. You need something that is sticky but takes next to no force to remove.

Here.

Stax always charge way too much for the drivers. Not as bad as Sennheiser but still...

If you want to sell them then feel free to drop me a line. I'd rather open up a set known to be bad rather than open up my pristine one.

Open up the driver and clean it? That's all there is to do plus possibly patch up a hole in the dust diaphragm.

Those should be fine.

Good point, those have to be 1/2W.

That is excellent work!!

By using a shielded transformer and placing it as far away from the "signal path" as is possible this becomes far less of an issue. It's also not like you don't have roughly 6A of AC riding through that umbilical cord with the DC voltages just to keep the tubes lit. Much better to place the power supply close to the amp boards and keep the heater stuff away from everything else.

This is the problem with the SRM-Xh, there are at least three different versions out there and that's not counting the SRM-Xs....

Nope, no Xh schematics but I have a dead one around here somewhere...

The internal should be superior but there are way too many variables to consider.

But... but... that would kill the magic!!! Can't have that...

We could steal borrow equipment at the show and rip it apart in front of everybody...

It will eat the 007t for dinner when I'm done with it. This is a far better amp. Not one of these, no but some of the Singlehour stuff came close.

Here is what it looked like new: Three umbilicals as Mikhail never used anything but those bloody Speakon connectors. The screen was a voltmeter which floated and thus didn't work. I'll probably have the MA logo laser etched into some acrylic and light it from the side. Ohh and Kevin thought this was funny... That used to my IEC chassis punch. I was only using it to mark the right size for me to cut the IEC but it really didn't like that. I managed to snap a 1/2" hardened steel bolt and have the bearing implode by hand.

Just rectifying the heaters won't do and will cause a lot of problems. You need to regulate it and doing so while it floats at -350V is problematic.

Did you tightly twist the heater wiring all the way from the transformer to the board? That is the most likely source of hum... You can also try swapping the wires and see if that helps.