spritzer

The servo takes a while to catch up but if your offset adjustment is right on the limit of the pot then the servo can't make up for that.

The GS-1 wasn't cool or had insane fanboys shilling it so it wasn't selling. Goes to show that people in general are idiots...

What do you mean by 0V? As in it was at 15V and then got down to 0VDC after an hour or that it hit the magical 0V from 0.3V after an hour?

It nulls the DC offset

For the servo you can leave the opamps in with the jumper open and adjust the amp for 0VDC when it has warmed up. Then you turn off the amp and put in the jumper.

The 03 and 05 are the same except the 05 is slightly smaller since I needed that.

I drill a 9mm hole for the Alpha, then I enlarge it 2/3's of the way from the outside with an 18mm drill, essentially carving a hole into the panel for the nut.

It's obvious from the schematic.

I wouldn't touch this Shuguang crap with a 10 foot pole. In a normal tube amp them burning up and shorting would be bad but in the BHSE it would be catastrophic.

I'm sure Stax would sell you new drivers for (knowing Stax) 6k$ or so outside of Japan. No way to retrofit something like this as there are no spacers in that sense. Then we have the issue of actually opening up the drivers compromises them in terms of dust. The end result for me though is that the 009 sounds good off the KGST which means the KGSSHV Carbon will be even better when we get around to it.

I think that most of us just don't care in any way...

If the reverb is prominent then absolutely but if it is only occasional and thus tied to certain forces acting on the diaphragm then it wouldn't show up. Nice to hear that I'm not alone. I can't be sure about the sensitivity without a set for direct A-B as my source has a volume control and people keep messing with it...

We've had portable electrostatic headphones for 20 years so why not high efficiency magnetoplanars.

Nate is right that tube matching is essentially a fruitless exercise. If we leave aside the drift of the circuit in general then the tubes will wear out at different rates so any matching will not last.

Happy Birthday Marc. I just matched some jfets which should make you happy...

Perhaps it was the pure terror of owning anything from The Gilmore Group or the lack of an industry insider consideration (reads should be free)....

Don't make me come over there!!!!

009's in general. It's been noted from day one that they can't do bass like the 007Mk1/SR-Omega.

My 007A's have the pots plugged, use Mk1 springs and I did some small mods to the earpads. Due to the new headpad on these the correct fit is even more crucial than with the Mk1. Early would be from the early months of production. Serial numbers mean nothing at Stax. There is indeed nothing wrong with the phones, well not a long term thing anyway. It's just a combination of the metal stators, the film and its coating which is at fault here but it is a more frequent issue than with most other sets. Stax have always continuously tinkered with the designs over the production run. The 007Mk1 is actually three different headphones which just share the name for some reason. The 009 aren't perfectly fine (far from it actually) and my 007's aren't dark either. When Bob was here on Monday and Tuesday we chatted about the 007 and he said he didn't like them. Fair enough but it was also clear that the fit was never good for him so I taught him how to make them fit perfectly. When he gets back then we'll see if the better fit changes anything for him. The end result should be what the 009 could have been, an improved SR-Omega. To tackle the imaging the only thing I can do is to stuff the pads on the back. Well either that or just replace them or the stuffing. The bass is a bigger issue as there is clearly a section of the upper bass missing plus a suck out of the lower bass. There has to be an opening somewhere but I'll give it a week until I start ripping them apart...

Tell me that's the one that Justin built and not the shitbox pabbi1 fucked up?

I prefer the highly modified 007A but the difference is slight. They will how ever last much longer, no cable issues and all that. Hell no that they will be used... ever but how cool is it to have some of Single Power's finest.

I was more jesting at the HF thread on the imbalance issue where nobody has the slightest clue and it has been suggested that PJ sets are somehow different... I can't help but get this slight feeling of betrayal when I look at this pile of shit and the epic work ahead of me...

...so I've had my new SR-009 for two days and I've already started to modify them. First for the good stuff, these aren't as fucking bright as all the early units I've owned/had access too. They can be a tiny bit too hot at times but this a marked difference to the earlier sets. This also means the odd reverberation with voices is also mostly gone. The bad news is though that the bass has a large gap in the FR simply missing and the imaging is far from good. Coming off a steady diet of SR-Omega and modified SR-007 SZ2 these two factors are all too apparent. There is a strong center image but it lacks the cohesive soundstage of the two older models. I suspect the earpads are to blame for most of this as they are virtually flat compared to the steep angle of the SR-Omega. As for the bass, it's either down to the diaphragm or there is a small port hiding somewhere in there. I suspect it is the latter as that "made in japan" piece is highly suspect. Ohh and this is a set that came from Price Japan and guess what, no channel imbalance....

I will then modify it for Megatron duty...

Sure, that would work too but I'd use 1W.