It's actually Rauðafellsgjá but I guess that's about as much gobbeldy gook... It's funny how related English and Icelandic are but the pronunciation is so different.
I've pretty much cleared out all the Japanese sellers at this point but you don't need that many. Use KSA1156's in the front end so you just need a handful per amp.
The 2SA1486 is perfect for this role and so is the STN9360. If you have a KSA1156 that measures well above 600V then it will work too. Just remember the pinout difference.
The teflon male plug is certainly real even though they were not cheap. The first prototype is on my HE90:
Neutrik XLR male pins are perfect for this role. Not sure if Kevin has any more as only a few of these were made.
Indeed, the CCS isn't active as the LED is missing. Also the soldering on the feedback selector is suspect and with the local resistors also in place that could short and cause problems.
The Russian Blue Hawaii (FluxLab) uses a lot of adhesive which tends to get not so adhesive when it warms up. Top tip, glue and a 200W space heater doesn't mix.
Funny enough that BH and it's sister amp run pretty cool for the breed. Much cooler than the BHSE for instance.
Board is always correct, the BOM probably isn't. I moved to smaller caps in the LV supply to save space when I did the KGSSHVk boards.
A 500V 3900pf will work especially with the 270V zener in place.
There is the Momentum Bluetooth which is suppose would be huge for them and not us. We did discover a huge flaw with the pre production (or early production) wireless sets as they appear to be volume capped and it's not nearly loud enough.
10K for anything Hifiman is madness. I guess that's why they were so touchy on HF when people called it a fugly headphone. Also the amp is in a chassis that costs way less than 100$ for both boxes in China....