spritzer

You can't have an amp that can drive both speakers and headphones equally well. Can't be done and it is shows when team molasses loves it.

It's HF, they are all idiots looking for the next new shiny. This is better than most of the crap they shill but it's still not the all round champion people think it is.

The insulation spec of air is about 100V/mill so you are more than covered.

Anybody preferring the 507 to anything Stax have ever made must be on crack. They are that bad... Only the 207 is useable of the new Lambdas but naturally Stax could have fixed the recent units like they did with the 009. Haven't bothered to get any of them just to try it out. You really can't fix any of the drivers DIY. As soon as you open them up they are compromised in terms of dust and debris.

I like it even more in the flesh.

One of the CCS 3675's shorting to the heatsink was what killed my T2 so they aren't welcome.

Mostly to do with the 10M90 CCS. Works just fine but I fear it might change too much how the amp performs over the stock CCS. As I have thousands of 2SC4686A's and 2SA1486's using it isn't a problem.

Those boards aren't ready for full release and I doubt we are going to clean them up. I also have my reservations about the mod going too far in some aspects so I will rather work on the new T2 version for Kevin and I.

It's a bit more voltage swing on top of the overkill we have already so not a whole lot of difference.

With plenty of cooling then the 400V version is feasible. Don't worry about the amp drifting because it won't. If you use external sockets then simply wire the heaters to them instead of to the board. Should clear up any issues with doing this.

Stax shoot for +/-20V. If you want to roll Single Power style then shoot for -110V.

It is certainly possible for a dynamic amp to destroy the headphones. All it needs is too much DC on the output.

Nothing to do with mosfets in general. It's due to the TRS shorting the outputstage to ground

That's the SRM-Xh but they haven't changed the PSU much if at all. Worth a try to use the same resistor.

I just packed up my 252S...

The holes on the 10M90's are a bit too small so you can crack the insulator when mounting. ...shit that came out dirtier than planned... Anyway, if there is any damage to anything then throw it away.

It can be done, the circuit is certainly linear enough but the PSU is a problem. I could do a +/-250V that would run off 12VDC as I have the switchers for that.

Sun isn't the best friend of any plastic.

Bloody furries!!!!

The small psu boards are my own custom units and not for public consumption.

This build is meant to be +/-400V max so FJPF2145 works perfectly as the output device. Kevin handles that side so I have no idea. Should be fine...

50$ each with shipping isn't the best of deals. Speaking of China though: http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.12.7ftFpD&id=42396278346&ns=1&abbucket=11#detail http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.245.7ftFpD&id=40220072535&ns=1&abbucket=11#detail KGST and who knows what clusterfuck he's come up with for the new version...

Now you just need to hook up some Stax and run them single ended from the TRS plug for the best sound evah!!!!

Now for something new as this one was just fired up: This was done as an exercise by me to see just how small we could make a stereo KGSSHV board and to do one that used only in production parts. On Semi had something to say about that though... Please keep this stupidity on HF where it belongs. You don't have even the slightest clue what you are talking about.

Just swap the pot for a 1K resistor. That said, the 10K pot should work but you might need a far lower series resistor. Try something like 500R or even lower. Might smoke the pot depending on how robust it is.