spritzer

I have some spare KGST boards on my site. I have only the mini KGSSHV psu for them as that's what I use.

No problem using the MPSA parts. The newest boards have had their labels updated As for the KGDT, it's pretty much a KGST that you can tuberoll. It was designed around the ECC99/12BH7A and 6N6pi with selectable current levels but I'll probably scrap that idea when I finalize the boards. It is bound to cause problems... Anyway, it is a cracking little amp. Reposting this for anybody who might not have seen it: Finished... The heatsinks have to be grounded, always.

If you have access to raw AC then you can do what ever you want. With just DC things get... complicated.

Nothing new to report, they continue to be great and I honestly have no desire to break out the 009 to compare. Too much shit going on and all that...

The KGDT is completely current production.. Off the shelf too...

The pot at max would take it out of the loop. The problem with most integrated amps is that the volume control used is pure crap. Alps RK27 or some cheap chip solution. Something like this would work but who knows if they have fixed their QC issues... http://www.khozmo.com/balanced_stereo.html

I've bought from them in the past and they were good. I just bought another lot so we'll see.

This is DIY, you can do what ever the fuck you want. I for one am tired of people coming up with stupid crap and then asking me to fix their fuckups when it inevitably comes crashing down on them. Overkill is well and good but it's often thrown around as an excuse for stupidity, using a 400VA transformer for a 50W circuit and stuff like that. I for one have tried the KGST with every PSU I have here and I'm sticking with my KGSSHV mini unit.

Yeah, that was for using it on a BHSE. I will draw up a new psu just for the BHSE when I can find some time. For the KGST I just can't see any reason to use the HV psu. Why use a PSU which was setup to run +/-500V at 350?

I have no interest in rugby but it reminded me of the beginning here for some reason... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NKbxuE07Xlo

He does have a nice vintage McIntosh setup. Not sure what the speakers are, could be old AMT or something like that.

Doing the same, it is very good.

The reason I gave above and the Pro output is 580V, not 480V. How else would you wire them? They are capacitors after all.

Tru dat. For a 350V B+ and a 270K resistor to ground you need a 141K series resistor.

Just for the record, there have never been any 2SA1968's with exposed tabs. Every last one ever made (i.e. real ones) had fully enclosed packages. The 2SA1967 on the other hand has an exposed tab but they are pretty rare.

I placed the filter cap before the divider and used 270K to ground but it really doesn't matter.

It is already a divider so it's better to use the regulated B+.

You only need to alter the bias supply for the amp to work with normal bias phones. See here: That is the bias supply for the normal bias on the right hand side panel of the amp, just behind the front panel. Just a voltage divider off the B+ with a small filter cap, two resistors to form the divider and a 4M7 ballast resistor.

If the sound comes and goes then it is probably the cable, not the drivers. That's exactly how a broken bias wire works... Edit: Normal bias has separate bias for each driver unlike the pro stuff.

Yeah, schematics are for the weak.

...also depends on the transformers used.

Fucking hope not as they seem to like me a lot. I always get extra discounts and the shipping is silly cheap. Might also be because a I buy a lot of boxes from them... a lot...

I can't log into their new site so some teething problems.

It's ok to just do the calculations... 625VDC*.707= 441VAC. Edit: The 450V version doesn't need this much as it has a voltage doubler which generates the bias voltage which is then regulated down to 580VDC

This is for the PSU, not the amp boards. There you need 1kV as it's for the doubler. For the amp side, anything above the rails will work.