With the ECR-400 I'd just wire the transformers directly to the input and see what happens. Thermistors don't last for long , let alone 40 years.
No transformer I can think of fits the SRA-3S but most of the stock units can be rewired to at least 117V. Some even for 230V...
My offer timed out so it wasn't me. They also just had the one listed and not multiple units under the same listing...
I did just buy a yet another SR-Omega so I can't complain...
The gain on the KGST is the same as on all the other 'stat amps we've done. Volume pot impedance doesn't matter so how much voltage are you feeding it?
It's actually Rauðafellsgjá but I guess that's about as much gobbeldy gook... It's funny how related English and Icelandic are but the pronunciation is so different.
I've pretty much cleared out all the Japanese sellers at this point but you don't need that many. Use KSA1156's in the front end so you just need a handful per amp.
The 2SA1486 is perfect for this role and so is the STN9360. If you have a KSA1156 that measures well above 600V then it will work too. Just remember the pinout difference.
The teflon male plug is certainly real even though they were not cheap. The first prototype is on my HE90:
Neutrik XLR male pins are perfect for this role. Not sure if Kevin has any more as only a few of these were made.
Indeed, the CCS isn't active as the LED is missing. Also the soldering on the feedback selector is suspect and with the local resistors also in place that could short and cause problems.
The Russian Blue Hawaii (FluxLab) uses a lot of adhesive which tends to get not so adhesive when it warms up. Top tip, glue and a 200W space heater doesn't mix.
Funny enough that BH and it's sister amp run pretty cool for the breed. Much cooler than the BHSE for instance.