spritzer

It's ok to just do the calculations... 625VDC*.707= 441VAC. Edit: The 450V version doesn't need this much as it has a voltage doubler which generates the bias voltage which is then regulated down to 580VDC

This is for the PSU, not the amp boards. There you need 1kV as it's for the doubler. For the amp side, anything above the rails will work.

485V is very much on the high side. Your pass transistors will get very, very warm indeed. 450V would be the max for a +/-500V amp. Up the current a bit instead.

It should be ok but one never knows until the switch is flipped for the first time.

No, not really. It should work but a trace might be deleted by mistake (that has happened) and then all hell breaks loose. Just fire one up and see if it works.

Different layout. Use the former as it is more recent.

Yup, they were bought for projects which haven't materialized yet.

Plenty of 100nf/1000V caps to be found. This one should work just fine: http://www2.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Kemet/PHE426PB6100JR06/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv1cc3ydrPrF85GIl804cbNm959%252bOSJvME%3d Cheap too. You can use that PSU but you could have problems. Plus nobody has ever built that PSU there might be massive problems. I just found out over the weekend that the layout software we use has a brand new way of fucking us over with no warning. Stick with the BHSE unit.

I use mine as paperweights...

The spacing is 15mm so go from there.

With +/-400V supplies it is far higher.

Not counting the few thousand units in stock at Mouser?

So... when do you want me there?

Yup and be warned, this is very fiddly. That's why I don't touch the Sigma's any more.

+/-20V doesn't matter the slightest bit.

This is common for the circuit and poses no harm for the headphones.

The 007A/Mk2 is an alternative too, different but also good. That means a more balanced budget.

The KGST and the HV are pretty much the same circuit but the Megatron is very different so the same parallels can't be drawn. This more like a high power version of the SRX That is not the last version but one of the later ones. Here is what a super old one looks like:

I'd like the pads to be a bit higher and thicker but for the price, you can't go wrong. If it is a late SR-1 then the SR-3 pads will work. Most of the parts of the late SR-1's are the same as on the SR-3's. Not so much for the early ones.

SR-3 pads will work but the SR-1 never shipped with those pads. I used the Brainwavez HM5 pads on mine as they are close to the original shape.

I will build a few this year after I sort out the PSU. It will serve as a stepping stone for the T2 project, testing some new ideas.

No build issues I can see. Stax have learned their lessons on the older 007's. To quote an email I got this morning: 'nuff said.

They would probably sell a lot more of them if they fixed that...

The lego is very fitting... There are copper pins that hold them together. Pull them out and the drivers open up. Watch out for the front stator wire which is very easy to break. Yup, 1600$ isn't bad at all. Edit: As for the sound, I still like it a lot. I know I'll have to change the springs and move the earpads to the Mk1 position eventually but I'm digging the extra harmonics in the bass region. It's easy enough to move press the cups towards the head to hear how they should sound.

Yup