spritzer

The 21K is to drop the +450V down to +300V to power the front end. There is no attenuation anywhere so either wrong parts somewhere or the tubes are bad.

Indeed, doesn't make any sense.

100V zeners back to back and 1N4007's is what I used.

It would be very Rudistor though. He had "silver reinforced" traces...

I think the only reason why my T2 arced through the bushing into the screw is because of the hole on the 3675's isn't quite large enough so I had to force them. Might have damaged one in the process.

Yup

It's fine to keep C108 but put it before R104.

I use M3 standoffs instead of nuts. Less chance of the thread stripping.

On none at all and just a plastic washer.

Nope, I haven't had any for a few years now.

You need a special bushing for the ceramic insulators. Can't remember the part name though...

The non engineer will chime in then. We don't specify HV resistors except where they are actually needed. I for one don't count the Vishay/Dales as a high voltage type even though they are good for 500V. The ballast resistor should be a 1000V unit and the output resistors should be 500V or more. The thicker traces aren't needed per se but they also don't hurt. Kevin and I use larger traces than is usual so making those thicker will only help with the thermal performance of the boards i.e. when soldering and as is the case with DIY stuff... desoldering. Ceramic insulators are simply the end result of lessons learned the hard way. The thinner insulators can and will be damaged. For instance when using the IXYS ccs on the KGSSHV the tab of the transistor will see a lot of voltage so why not go into overkill mode. I wouldn't really call this over engineering in any way, this is the sensible sort not driven by any cost factor. Overkill is to use a 400VA transformer where a 100VA would suffice and drive the pass transistors in the psu into oblivion.

Yup. Stax finally stopped doing this as it will damage the diaphragms. King Sound still thinks this is a good idea though...

Any strong glue will work for the drivers. Polyurethane is what is commonly used as it is very strong and stable but with a long cure time. Martin Logan use tape but they also use it as spacers. You can use poly to attach the driver to the baffle but it is very strong so odds of removing them ever again, are slim. Better use double sided tape as that's what Stax use. Now theirs is crap so any strong glue that doesn't leave a lot of residue works. I bought once everything I could find locally and some Tesa carpet glue worked very well. Two different kinds though, the transparent one which is reinforced with some twine is the best one. Ditto for the earpads, double sided tape there too. Now with the dust cover compromised you can expect some squealing. How much is impossible to tell.

There are two things very wrong with that schematic though, under no circumstance should that capacitor me after the ballast resistor and the ballast should be 4m7 and not 2m2.

I got a near new SR-5 in the mail yesterday and holy hell it sounds good off the KGST. Even with the stock pads it has good imaging, detail and bass. Goes to show what driving something properly can do...

Well at least they are in good hands. I've spent a lot of money of on out of production sand in the last year though... a lot!!!

One google search away....

There should be one wire connecting both 0V and another one connecting both 115V terminals on the transformer. Since you have a double pole switch, both those wires can come from the switch.

That's pretty much on the same street as the bakery.

I guess that is enough for a few T2's...

I haven't tried them but the pads are very different. Something for the todo list though...

PCB fab houses can be such an epic pain to deal with. I have some KGST boards up on my site if anybody needs a set. These are the slightly smaller version I use and the PSU is the super small KGSSHV mini unit.

How can anything sound wise not be a personal preference? They are missing the accurate soundstage of the 007, I think most would agree about that. I could have said "sharp soundstage" but this still stands. . I'm sure many people would welcome the slightly diffused sound but it's not for me. In comparison to the Audeze, people have been known to roll pads on them to get the sound they like. Stuffing some scrap foam between the baffle and the pads would be simple and cheap compared to that.

You do that at the switch. + - - + XLR x x x x Output from switch + G G + RCA G is tied to common ground Something like this. Flip the switch to RCA and it grounds the - inputs to the amp.