spritzer

290ma? That is a lot so the raw AC is probably much higher than that but it depends on the regulation of the transformer. You should be getting around 500VDC raw off the rectifiers with that setup.

Why on earth to they have antenna's? To contact the mothership? Wireless electricity?

Diodes have a fixed drop which doesn't change with how much voltage they pass. Odds are that the meter can't handle the high AC voltage.

All Lambdas have the earpads glued to the baffle, including all of the new ones. Only difference is that with the new ones the drivers aren't glued to the other side of the plate but mounted in housings instead. The Lambda Signature was released in 1987 so six years prior to the SR-Omega. All the SR-1 through 5 units had loose earpads only fixed in place with small adhesive dots.

I have some of those but haven't tested them yet. They will go in a BHSE so that will see if they actually work. The lead wires the use are the worst I've ever come across. Nasty, cheap stuff.

Well the circuit above doesn't work in that configuration but it is really just a voltage divider.

Why 280V? Normal bias is 230V and resistors are far less noisy.

Even includes Kevin's toes!!!

Looks good!! Where did you get that R-core? I've been trying to find somebody to sell me good ones for a while now...

There is no spec available for these transformers, not even in the service manual. I did replace one in a 100V (SRA-10S) unit and used these specs, 520VCT-100ma, 52VCT-250mA

They are not all the same but most are of similar quality. Those that I just got are from China but feel a lot nicer. Need to do some more testing though...

Yup, that's an amber led. Quite partial to it which is why I just got 200 of these switches today...

I would change to no conductive screws Sören, nothing in that CCS should be conductive to ground. As for me, it's been a busy couple of days...

The heatsink is grounded so it doesn't make any sense that it shorts there. Also no traces too close to that spot... Weird...

Normal bias sockets no longer available and probably won't be made again. As for the Audio Valve, it has literally nothing to do with the SRX.

There can be other factors as this is sour dough. Too much activity in the starter leads to unstable dough and too much flavor. Sour dough is not supposed to taste sour at all...

Yeah, that stuff should never be used. As for the 15-18V, are you talking about offset or balance? The amp drifts a lot as it warms up but you might need to adjust the series resistor in the offset adjustment.

The reason we use green boards is to easily spot any shorts so if you can't see any then the board isn't at fault. There isn't enough power in this circuit to cause anything like this so it has to be a short, bad part or something like that.

Sure, grounding one stator also works but sounds like shit. Just ask the Audio Valve fanboy...

It's likely rising too much so not enough salt. The golden rule is 30gr per 1L of water. You can go up to 40gr for more flavor but also slower rise time.

The pcb sold above comes from that article so I'd assume they match.

Stax don't want you to change them so they are hard to get.

That one has nothing to do with the SRX... As you would expect from Audio Valve, major fail all around.

Best way to measure AC is reative to each other so for single tap, one end to the other. CT to each end etc. That's why you are getting results which make no sense. Also with everything off and not connected, measure the DCR of each of the windings. That will tell you if you have internal shorts.

Plenty of 7815/7915 supplies on ebay. Just replace the caps as they are probably fake.