spritzer

One of my Omegas... The SR-Omega was an amazingly ambitious design but some of it was just badly done. The aluminum housing is just a skin for a poly carbonate body inside which everything is attached to. As we all know, metal screws into tapped plastic is always a sound plan... Other than that they seem to hold up well but spare parts are becoming scarce. From what I gather there are no more spare earpads but the foam from the 007 pads can be modified to fit the Omega skin. There should be some arcs left but Lambdas could always be scavenged to keep the Omegas going. So the bottom line is that they will be fine when plugged into modern amps. I'm using it right now from the Carbon so it doesn't get any more more modern than that. In other news I was just sent some Sennheiser Unipolar 2000 and 2002 units so expect a thread on them soon.

I just drill and tap individual holes but something like this would work. Not a whole lot of room though as I'm right up against the end of the sink.

No problems using angle brackets with the Carbon but they have been dropped on the newest version of the board. The devices will be mounted directly to the sinks from now on. The plan is to build four Megatron's but who knows if I'll go through with it.

We could make those boards a bunch smaller without sacrificing safety. Also routing around the crazy high voltage parts to make sure they can't spark might be a good idea. I don't see a ground plane being a problem if we pull it back to say 60mill or even more. We could block out the area around the output devices too just for an extra level of safety. Also goes without saying that these have to be quality boards, made by people who understand HV boards. No super cheap PCB's here. To think there are people on HF who think I'm going to build these...

I like it.

Maybe at some point...

I have too much sand...

Some of the Chinese boxes are ok but the anodizing on all of them is shit... pure and utter shit. I use a very strong cleaner to wash the Modushop stuff after drilling to degrease them but if I use that on any of the Chinese boxes... they turn green.

The Carbon is a SiC KGST, not a BHSE. Whether some of the stuff that makes up the BHSE is necessary or even makes it better is something Kevin and I have discussed with no real result. Removing the tubes makes the amps much less likely to break down, in fact I run the Carbon 24/7...

I will do one with the T2 CCS at some point as I'll do a solid state T2. Also SiC BHSE... Who needs tubes now...

Those boxes aren't all that great so I won't be touching them again. I'll build one mini Carbon into the KGSSHV mini chassis just to test it but after that it will be all custom.

That sink isn't needed either. I just put it in there in case I'd want to drive a small heater supply or something like that off that supply.

No, sleep is for the weak...

For the impatient ones, one of my Carbon PCB orders was thought to be lost so I had to double up the orders. It turned up on Friday though so now I have too many PCB's. This version hasn't been tested but it is just a smaller take on the ones I've been using so issues aren't likely. These are my own custom boards so smaller than any of the other ones and with shielding on both the front and the back. Price is 47$ each so 94$ for the pair of boards thanks to my expensive tastes and Icelandic taxes...

Happy Birthday Justin!!!

So you'd want a larger cap? Why? Because those diodes are SiC and there aren't any SiC bridge rectifiers.

442K: 71-RN60D4423F Kevin understood me, major brain fart time... I should try to sleep some more but there really is no time. I did mean the Carbon.

I'd have to agree with you there. The Carbon just does everything right... Edit: I should look into sleeping at some point...

All my boards are custom and for my own use only.

I use playmo.tv to watch Netflix here as well as everything else.

You can lower the current and the amp performs well at 10mA but it's still a lot of heat. Now we could to a board which would fit some larger heatsink which could be mounted to a board (like the 717/727) but it would be pretty esoteric.

Never call me that!!!!

I just wouldn't dare running mains through the same umbilical as the other wires. It's just so Eddie Current and so much fail waiting to happen. Call me paranoid...

What monster 12AU7's are those?

Are you sure that the channel is dead and it is not a switch issue? Measure the top of the large resistors for DC voltage. You should have roughly 0VDC between them and each one relative to ground is +290VDC. Replacement parts for the output devices are all but impossible to source. You need low Cob which is the truly hard part.