spritzer

It has larger PSU caps.

It's a common issue with the Hv and nothing to worry about. You can put in larger PSU caps on the LV side which makes this go away.

It's practically legal up here. You always need a handshake between the two components to make sure you don't do anything "wrong" with the signal. Sony did it with some of their stuff but most had to resort to special connections.

There are these things call torrents where you can get all the SACD's you'd want. Also no SACD player would ever output digital in any useable format. Ohh and Lampazitor is pure and utter crap.

Carbon resistors way out of spec?

This is Stax so serial numbers have always been meaningless. They are just a rough guide, nothing more.

Measuring before the ballast resistor will give the correct value unless the meter is seriously fucked. This is high voltage so using a quality meter is the rule here.

Are the heater wires tightly twisted and kept away from everything else?

What do you mean by IEC neutral?

Are the 120V primaries cut in some way? A fried transformer is not all that common a fault.

Did you fix the primary setup? The way it is set in those pics it won't work at 230V.

You shouldn't see any DC on the output since you can't adjust the amp that way. It is AC coupled so no DC should be on the output.

Ahh that is not the best idea.

Ahh never mind, the last pic is from a SRM-Xh. See it now.

Change the regulator? That shouldn't happen at all.

JRC

True story, at collage we had this meter to measure our lung capacity. As was so often the case I was used as a Guinea-pig for some experiments and the last one was total lung capacity. I broke the meter....

I would never touch ST regulators....

A high power class A amp in a sealed box is a very bad idea so holes and more holes in those holes.

Wait, I thought Stax didn't do anything to fix the 009's.... As for the SRM-3, this one has clearly been tampered with. What in the world are those huge caps suspended above the PCB? I can't remember the exact details of that schematic but I assume the resistor in question sits between the output transistor and the - rail? Not much that can be wrong except a shorted transistor, the pull down to ground is off or the voltages are wrong. Which brings me to the 240V setting, its is simply the former 120 connected to the 0V next to it. Nothing else.

Thanks everyone!!! I had a slow day with some amp building and then took a trip to the half abandoned US Navy station here. Fun to see if as it is pretty much a large ghost town. I did get some cake, two of my friends picked me up just as I was going to bed and gave me a cake. The plan was to eat it outside but it was so windy that we lit the candles in the car. Almost set it on fire.... Anyway, a pic of my ugly mug with a cake.

The ones I bought were 2 lead but they are only 180uf

Mount it in standoffs though the holes in the core. That's what I did on Tyll's amp. Make sure you insulate the holes well though, they must not be grounded!!! What about mounting the small trafo on a side wall or indeed the back panel. I'd prefer to keep the transformer in the back but that's just me..

I did recoat the diaphragms and replaced the bias connect with something sturdier which I fabricated out of silver wire. As they age the bias seems to drift on some of them by a tiny margin. I have no doubt that this is tied to sunlight or rather the drivers being exposed at some point to direct sunlight. Some will drift from time to by a tiny margin by 0.5dB or something like that, just a slight change but I recoat to try and prevent that. The bias connect used by Stax was the biggest afterthought I've ever seen, this tiny metal clip which slots into the bias contact and is pushed onto the brass rings that hold the diaphragm. I soldered this connection to the cable entry and then push fit to the diaphragm. They do sound stunning off the Carbon. From day one the Omega has needed power more than any of the other Stax phones and the Carbon gives it so effortlessly. With the BHSE they will always have that extra bass edge, a slight coloration if you will, but here the bass is leaner but more natural. It will hit even harder though...

This is an amp you'd really want a 6' stick just to turn it on....