spritzer

Those heatsinks are at least 50% too small for the carbon so it would be a good idea to reduce the current a bit. My mini Carbons should be ready in a day or two. Massive heatsinks to soak up all the power.

It's just the angle of the pic, it's still crammed with amps.

I believe they are called split rivets. Finally installed this despite it still having some PSU issues. It faces an up hill battle against the Carbon that used to sit there.

That's what I was thinking. I also guess that's why I drew up that headphone design two weeks ago...

Yeah, they quoted me 5 million ISK which is about 40K$. The prices here are weird as they are usually the same as in the US, despite the 25.5% VAT. I would get a very healthy discount though...

None of them have this same as the Liquid Lightning crap. If everything goes to shit then they can destroy the drivers plus if the cable fails then there is nothing to protect the user from the drive voltages.

The He90 never fit my head properly so that would be nothing new from Sennheiser. I hope some aspects of that are just a bad joke but I fear Senn have just fucked up quite badly. Looks like they are still using ODO connectors for this one: http://www.odu-usa.com/products-solutions/push-pull-circular-connectors/odu-mini-snap.html 18mm shell, pin and groove?

It's coming in November... Price is retarded...

To mod them to pro bias would mean replacing the drivers. Almost impossible to mod the drivers themselves. The SRM-1, SRM-3 and SRM-313 (the older ones) all have normal bias outputs and similar circuits.

They just copied our work, no doubt about that. The insertion force is a big deal though which is why I adjust all of my sockets by hand. Yup, I'm that nuts.

I'd love to how he's going to retrofit these into old designs. Not so easy to do...

Adding a small angle usually helps.

For the Carbon with normal CCS setup I'd shoot for at least 200mA HV windings. 250mA would be better unless it is a special case where the temp rise of the transformer is tightly controlled.

Even better with some Brennivín....

Then there are screws which hold the capsules with the L and R markings together. Be very careful when opening them though, lots of little parts that need to go together in the right order.

The Lambda capsules are all glued together so no good way of getting in there to clean them. The headband dis-assembly depends on which version of the headband that is. There are three different designs out there.

Thanks. Having it to play with means I'll probably never build any more of this. Might finish the three PCB's I have but it would be insane to try and sell this beast. Even with this updated layout it is still a chore to build. This one is completely stock, Xicon parts everywhere and all the stock sand. I even used the 1486's where KSA1156's would have worked just fine. The test points are just some teflon units off ebay but they work perfectly. Since this was a custom PCB I spaced them further apart to the test leads would fit comfortably.

Look what was finally brought back to life yesterday.... This has a new board as I could never find out what was wrong with the old one. Might have found it though... Anyway, nice to have it alive and kicking. Btw. If anybody needs any of the hard to get Xicon resistors used in this, drop me a line. I bought a lot of them... a lot!!!!

Some are ok, some are far from it.

I think FT might make the Mundorf caps. It is certainly an OEM thing...

Something else...

I've used the JRC parts for years and they don't need a load to be stable. I've never seen them be bothered by the input voltage at all but I've never put 30VDC into them. If the amp is stuck at the rails then something is very wrong, blown transistors or solder bridges being the most likely issues. Well that and flux, that can fuck up everything at these voltage levels. Glad it helped, took a while to figure out what the hell was going on with the circuit. As for the servo, the OP27 is bloody slow to work and some can be a bit off. Personally I never use them.

Woo know about this but they just don't give a fuck.

It will take some time for this to happen but in general I wouldn't recommend connecting headphones to them as they are essentially broken. What's wrong is they use the wrong ballast resistors for the bias supply or, as I've seen twice, just don't use any. This will burn off the coating and fuck up the diaphragm.

They should have handled that but I've never come across that issue.