spritzer

Just drop the current a bit in the CCS. There are 300R resistors right next to the main heatsinks, change those to say 400R or something like that. Btw. There is a reason why my amps have a completely open top and holes in the bottom.

It's always the price point that comes to play here. In truth they are just different, the BHSE isn't inherently better in every way.

Already did that but not the volume control. No easy way to do that except with the Shallco switches.

But...but...but... they sound better??

The filament for the front end is 6VAC with one leg grounded so CT can't be used there. I wouldn't connect the CT on any of the other ones either. That would end very badly... If you want to run at either 12V or 24V then you have to mess with the traces and the heater center tap. 12V is with the center tap floating and one leg of the heater grounded. 24V is the same except it has two heater elements wired in series.

Looking past channel matching, almost all volume controls will limit dynamic range by their design. Only crazy stuff like the Ayre KX-R design avoids this.

I think they are made by the UK importer for Kondo which would explain the price...

The easiest way would be to wire the tubes for 24V and use a LM7824.

There will be more...

I'm sure we can make a smaller board but having heatsinks on the board would be nice.

Now you know why we keep increasing the clearance of the ground plane around the traces. The KGSSHV power supply was he biggest headache as there we have roughly 700V of raw DC floating around. My longest bit of troubleshooting was last summer, two months to find a phantom noise in one of my BHSE's. Came and went but was finally tracked down to the TV antenna causing a ground loop.

There is a reason why we use the RN60's....

They are CMF60's so 1/2W. Just labeled RN60D to be mil-spec.

That would be perfect...

The 1486 is partially insulated so you just need the ceramic insulator for them. Better yet, use the KSA1156 where you can.

It's a speaker amp so it's of no use for headphones.

The other caps are for the servo so anything above 50V is fine.

That psu is just one of many BH variants that I've drawn up over the years. 500V input caps and 450V output caps. You can get it through with some care (that's what she said.... ) but a drill does help. Just make sure to deburr...

Gotta love those SR-X Mk3 Pro's. Just sent out my last set but to the best home imaginable.

The board is actually much smaller....

Me needs some NC stuff... I also need a shill to post non stop about my stuff on HF. Anybody want to get a free amp or something?

Yeah... I'd go with Audio Valve too. Such honest and upstanding company.

That's their house sound so it's likely. The HE-5 for me is the benchmark of what an excessively forward transducer sounds like.

These boards won't ever be released but we did update the old Headamp design too so that could be shared. No sense in moving away from 20mA for this design. It's those steel bars which hold everything together. They are never the correct size so the amps will become difficult to get right. Having everything terminate in the sinks makes things easier but not always. This is why I'm looking into custom boxes...

That's one of the reasons why I'm hesitant to build more Megatron's. I did design a new PCB for it (hello huge caps plus a bunch of other changes) and get some umbilical cable but it is such a complex amp.