RudeWolf

I'd take four 12 inchers over a 24 incher. Quicker bass that way due to less moving mass vs force.

Well, moar is better if it's the betterness that's really moar. For a single sweetspot system one sub should be enough, because there's only one small area for which to optimize the response. Besides SPL more subs give you more control over room modes - useful for optimizing the bass response for a larger listening area. At the same time more subs will leave you with more chances to screw up. Without a measuring mic, I wouldn't try to setup a multi-sub affair.

Aww shoot, wasn't aware that I was stepping on some sensitive stuff. Sorry about that! Besides SVS, Rel, Hsu and BK Electronics have pretty nice subs for the money.

Did a sub-off at the office. My SVS SB-2000 (699€) vs Dynaudio BM9S II (990€) which my boss bought together with his BM5 monitors. Long story short, the BM9S is going back to Thomann.de. I have a hard time imagining this thing making anyone sad.

I have a SB-2000 incomming tomorrow. I'll be mating it with my KEF LS50s.

Yeah, if using TRS be very careful with plugging in and out headphones. Or use XLR altogether.

The guy also made a sort of vacuum pump from a thermos and the inside of a paper towel roll. The thermos inside the cardboard tube made a nice piston like seal, so it could be pulled out and sucked out the drivers with resulting vacuum.

Almost peed myself at work today. I come to my office this morning, see the main dev guy clacking away on his keyboard. Turns out the guy's been working on Sunday and had his kids with him. Keep in mind that our office is loaded with various kinds of headphones and studio monitors, we do acoustic research and measure headphones. I come by the dev guy and see that his B&W 686 bookshelf speaker has a poked metal (!!!) tweeter. Turns out his boy has been a very avid speaker poker and poked almost all of our monitors, which didn't suffer any permanent damage due to soft cone tweeters and paper woofers. So picture this - a grown ass man, trying to suck the metal tweeter back with his friggin mouth! In the end his french kissing didn't do much, because considerable force is needed to right back metal tweeters (imagine very thick metal foil). I did some repairs with a piece of scotch tape (stick and pull back), but some of the deeper creases didn't budge.

Sjostrom audio kits are worth a look as well.

I dunno, a pretty generic one? Did you cross the transmit and receive wires?

Just swapped out the digital filter on my DAC. I consider it to be a must! So far the best one for me was MB1 by TNT on DIYA.

An acquaintance of mine did a series of tests and measurements on his DAC and it turned out that current filters are less than optimal. To get the best sound try feeding in as high resolution signal as you can. I'm waiting for a new set of filters to come out.

The SR80i popped my cherry. RIP.

It lives. Sounds very nice. The Amanero interface causes drop-outs and nasty plops on Fs change, which isn't very nice. The word is that a certain Chinese USB->I2S interface by one Diyinhk doesn't behave that way.

These plops occur at Fs change when using certain USB/I2S interfaces and aren't harmful to your speakers. One guy fried his speakers by directly connecting the DAC to a 400W amp. All in all a reasonable thing to do, only if the DAC doen't lose it's connection to the potentiometer. Which it did (prototype setup, less than optimal soldering...) and gave the speakers a taste of that class D glory. As for the other guy - he somehow damaged the SMPSU. Sure, there are still kinks to iron out, but it is to be expected. Fortunately the DAC has a serial port which can be used to reprogram its firmware.

I'm currently in progress of building one.

Told ya they're good! Terrific job on the wiring!

I was born in a country that is no more - The Union of Soviet Socialist Republics. At that time just about everything was scarce as cavities on hens teeth. So basically if you somehow got something, you surely needed to able to fix it. Have you seen plastic bags being machine washed and then fitted with cotton inlays to keep them go longer? I have. My pops, after he came back from serving in the red army (he was lucky to be dumb enough to tell the conscription commission that he had relatives in US, which saved him from Soviet-Afghan war), scraped up enough cash to buy a Sharp two cassette decker from sailors. That catapulted him to the top of his local crowd of 20-somethings. He was able to copy records, which at that time meant being the local music kingpin. Records were rare and usually came from the same sailors or were ripped from foreign radio transmissions. The main man who did the first copies was called the The Great Audiopirate - if you somehow got your hands on the second copies, everyone would automatically worship you because evidently you were "up-there" pretty high. Usually second tape copies went to high caliber underground discos, then they trickled down through further copying through guys like my dad. The funny thing was that due to the quality of these records being abysmal, many of the older folks don't recognize western music from that time being played from good records - things like cymbals were absent in these records. So when I came into this world I had more music at my disposal than 95% of the other kids. I also had many peers who taught me interesting things like soldering, basic electronics and making explosives (strangely enough that's also a big thing in our family). I also learned to read at the tender age of five, which meant a lot of reading and rapidly widening my worldview through various encyclopedias and Jules Verne books. Yet the affliction of audiophilia came much much later. I've loved music all my life, yet the thought of "better playback" came to me at the age of 23 when I also had the cash to make some of it come true. My mother flew to NY that year and bought a Grado SR80i for me with the money I gave her. The next year I went to study to Iceland...

Blameless isn't too shabby at all. I'm also looking to upgrade my power amp (after I finish my R2R DAC project) and currently have these Class AB current feedback modules in mind. Maybe even power them from a SMPSU. Good luck with your project!

Cool, more music, less silence. Imagine buying a pack of potato chips with no air and more chips inside - win win.

The woodworking is much easier than for example this. Not trivial by any means, but easily simplified by the use of said flat packs. By the way - what's your plan for amping? I'd actually recommend different amps for different drivers. My friend had the best success with Class D for bass (due to 2 Ohm dips), class AB for mids and highs. I'd go as far as to say that highs can actually be done in class A for best results, they don't need that much power.

The LX521's blew my socks right off when I heard them at a friends place. The soundstaging was wonderful - also it was interesting to see the bass drivers doing slow, large excursions on some tracks. As much as I'd hate say it - they are a steal at that price.

Just build in a small bell from a microwave that does the "ping" sound whenever the T2 is ready to go.

Here's hoping for a HD800 sale surge.

What's the situation with smd parts? Nothing too interesting there? Nevermind, must be the hangover talking. What about BC850C/BC860C? Also I'd love to have SMD options for lower dissipation resistors and maybe even ceramic capacitors. Nice design, btw. Looks like current feedback is all the rage nowadays. What's the predicted current draw on this thing? I've heard that CFA's are sensitive to power supply ripple, so I'm wandering how fancy can I go before it turns into space heater.