nopants

SRX board is done If you are committing to the 407 I would say play around with the SRX, the cost is going to be less than a KGST. You have the option of building the original circuit or Jim's hotrodded version. I'm opting for the latter

There aren't enough out there. I liked mine when it was making music, and I thought it did more good for the 009 than it did the 007. QB9 was feeding it

SR-X, point to point

In your envisioned chassis layout is there anything that makes use of the non-walled height? Sounds like it might make sense to mount the transformers on the bottom and stack the PSU over those. This amplifier sounds like it'd be a good candidate for a remote-only volume control...unless you use a lazy susan as a knob

I think kevin described how he implements ground in the dynatwo thread, might want to check out the last few pages for that I don't really follow the best practices for this, I've found that the only thing that makes a significant difference is whether I ground the xlrs properly or not. for me this means grounding pin 1 and the ground tab to chassis.

so what is stopping you from shitting up threads over there? there's nothing you could possibly ask here that hasn't been addressed already including but not limited to "help! my head is up my ass, how do I remove it?"- you might find some guidance in the DIY section* edit: added where to look

well I suppose my suggestion doesn't actually affect any of the boardwork, just part substitutions. It looks like you copied and pasted two sections together, might be cheaper to split the board in half?

the cost differential for 680uf 500V and 680uf 550V is ~28 usd according to a skim of mouser- http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/United-Chemi-Con/E92F501VND681MB65T/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMukHu%252bjC5l7YUXzhYIbW7AelNVPI8CA%2fgg%3d if there's no tangible performance difference between 800 and 900 reg out I would vote to go for the lower rails. Safety is also my main concern, as well as being a wussy I don't know about everyone else but I envision using the 5U case as a warmed seat, true luxury

damn teasing a power supply for the mythical DHT amplifier? what were you going to do about the output transformer What HV rails would you get if you limited the cap ratings to only 450 or 500V?

I see one antek 360Vac for 50 a pop. Maybe it'd be a better fit for the el34 version though, since it has filament secondaries

yea keep the textwalls to head-fi, that's what the site is for Did someone pick up the SR-omega for sale? too rich for my blood. I should have bought j-paks when it was 3.3k

no

The parts cost sounds insane

Don't think you need to match anything

Looks like I need to save the attenuator boards for this and not the T2 what's wrong with SMD in this case, the packages are large enough to do by hand, not to mention still available at mouser

yeah that's one disadvantage of hole punches but usually it hasn't been enough of an issue after I deburr the hole. They're still good enough to install neutrik connectors behind the faceplate. I guess I've also only made holes in aluminum so there's that. Last resort is to use rings for cosmetic effect, which is what I ended up doing for the Megatron

don't be too hard on you'reself I think you fit into society bull shit just fine

feel free to sell it my way if I wasn't intent on getting rid of stuff I build I wouldn't have a problem using my own standard for power connection switching gears, has anyone heard of situbes.com? A little gimmicky but some stuff seems useful, like the delay circuit and OLED meter

when you drop stats like that it sounds like you're in the market for an hdtv I was recently looking at the Asus PQ321Q, but I couldn't realistically afford it unless I sold both my kidneys I think something along the lines of a 960/970 would be enough to drive it, as long as you don't have any special requirements for CAD, etc.

to be fair this is infinitely more constructive than talking about putting you're chord in front of you're BHSE

damn triple quotes and a cry of hypocrisy? we've got a professional in the building you're butthurt is delectable

speaking of holes I'm really tempted to buy a square hole punch, a hole saw produces good results but it's really time consuming... especially when you want to use inlets with built-in switches

should roll tubes before you make any hasty judgements

any particular stuff you can recommend? also related, does wire current carrying capacity specify ac, dc, or both?

I haven't had any problems with my cathode caps in the few hundred hours I put on my megatron prior to casing. hm really, that blows. I think at this point I just have to finish the build as is and evaluate how good/bad the performance is. What you're describing sounds like I need to hack up the PSU supply case and also use 2 umbilicals, 1 8-pin for AC and another 5-pin for DC, or something do that effect. Using toridals everywhere would also require a case change to mount things properly. What problems do you forsee? I read a bit into how to orient the transformers properly but it pretty much went out the window due to the size constraints. Did anyone opt for HV wire ( > 600V rating) for the bias umbilical? I haven't had a problem historically but I've never made an external supply for this. navships has some 2kv-rated wire appropriate for this but I don't know it's totally necessary.