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Everything posted by JoaMat
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Sold rk50. Got money enough for tubes, bottle of single malt and flower to wife.
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EL60 is said to have the same characteristics as EL34 but it has 9 pin socket. The adapters are bought via eBay and quality seems OK. IMO EL60s are very good sounding tubes.
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Nice connectors. I really like the color of the male. Help appreciated. PM sent.
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Neutrik male pins, right? Can they be bought somewhere? Don't like to slaughter good XLR connectors to get them.
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Here is a Blue Hawaii I built a couple of years ago. Just removed the EL34 (left channel) and put the EML 20B-V4 tall base in place. Held my breath, closed my eyes, pulled the trigger and…. it works
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I’m actually reading the information Emission Labs sent me with the tubes. Regarding filament they say: “The filament voltage must be exactly as specified, under all circumstances. Slow-start filament electronics taking longer than 10 seconds, are not allowed, otherwise this may damage the tubes” “Stand-by mode should not be used with directly heated tubes.
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I can’t hear any AC hum – doesn’t mean that there isn’t any though. The filament transformer gives [email protected] out. In order to reduce voltage for tube heating (5.0V +/-5%) I’ve put wire wound resistors in series with heater. Below shows the small board with terminals and resistors mounted to Kevin’s main board on two stand offs. For info I followed this link and bought some SiTubes filament supplies. They work OK for a quarter of an hour or so than the voltage drops to a few tenths of a volt. After some cooling down they are fit for fight again. I should have red data sheet. Maybe this would do if you really want DC heating. Probably overkill??
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You are right. Even when completely dark the tubes can be barely seen. Very disappointing, but the sound is OOOK!!! Maybe I should turn up the variac, it’s only at 67% percent...
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Continued the rebuilt. Emission Labs DHT Tubes, EML 20B-V4. To the left is variac. Its purpose is to set the two small transformers to appropriate voltage for the filament.
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625 mW is more than enough. Max power dissipation of mpsa/w06 is less than 60 mW.
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What is printed on the PCB - MPSW06 or 2SC2240?
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Thanks, so the servo keep the offset to zero from the start (except from the first seconds when power on) and further on without any fluctuations?
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Thanks. Does it mean that you have zero volt offset even from the start?
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Anyone that have tested the opto servo. How does it work?
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You can’t just replace the mpsw with the 2sa/2sc components that way, can you? I think their pin layout is different.
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Megatron Electrostatic Headphone Amplifier
JoaMat replied to kevin gilmore's topic in Do It Yourself
Great work! -
Rebuilt a Blue Hawaii to Grounded Grid - seems very promising.
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Replaced 2sj79/2sk216 with ksa1220/ksc2690 on one Blue Hawaii and one DIY T2. No negative surprises so far.
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Looks very interesting. Would it be possible to have some pictures of the inner layers? What might the maximum voltage between layers be? Beautiful symmetry of the board.
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Blaha!
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OK, post deleted.
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Well done. Congrates. The blue electrolytics, are they from the group buy?