sbelyo

I went down that route a few years ago and it was a solid choice. My problems were (back when I tried it) the bluetooth keyboard kept disconnecting and the script to map my nas shares was 50/50. That being said I was going to look at an apple TV. The shield looks real good though combined with the silicondust prime

That silicon dust box looks cool. Looks like you can replace the Tivo with it by adding their DVR service and a NAS. I'll have to look at that a little deeper

That I'm not sure. I was hoping you can still steam live TV from the main Tivo through the app. It looks like you can https://explore.tivo.com/how-to/tivo-app-android.html I think this could replace the mini. I want access to more streaming services but don't want to ditch the Tivo because as a DVR it work well with Fios. I think the providers are looking at the Tivo platform as legacy and just not providing support. I know they have a new platform but I want to have a software solution like you said

I need some recommendations for an Android TV box. No Amazon products. I need it to replace a Tivo mini. I'm looking for it to support the Tivo app so I can stream from my DVR (tivo bolt), Netflix, Hulu, and prime and the upcoming Disney+ This is stemming from the app performance of the Tivo mini. Hulu, Prime, and Netflix all crash and Disney+ will not be available as an app for Tivo or through Amazon channels, or on Amazon fire devices so I'd like to kill two birds by replacing the mini with an Android TV device. This should allow for better app performance, let me retain Tivo access, and add Disney+. With that being said, there are so many out there so I'm looking for ones that people have had success with.

Looks like it's $12.99 for prime members. Interesting

I didn't see this posted so I'll do it RiP Sid Haig... https://www.nytimes.com/2019/09/23/movies/sid-haig-dead-captain-spaulding.html I'm a big captain spaulding fan. Devil's Rejects is GOLD.

oh man... eddie was the man

That's mad cool!

Did you want the Blue Hawaii Ultra mini? I believe I have one set of Electorstatic CFA boards and a BH Ultra Mini PS board.

For lower current and heat I use aluminum cases and mount the transistors to the case bottom. Then secured with a 4-40 hex head screw and locknut For higher current and heat I use the angle iron method mounted to the case bottom then mount the heatsink to the angle iron. When tapping the heatsinks it's best to use cutting fluid. WD-40 works fine if you don't have cutting fluid. Take care to back the tap out a half turn or so for each two full turns. This will break off the metal pieces that bind taps when you're cutting the threads.

That's a good point as I tend to resell before I buy another. I think I want the Baltic Aquascaphe in Black/Cream for my next watch at this point. I just needed something to push me in that direction

Anyone have one of these or know of Archimede https://www.archimede-watches.com/pilot-42gmt.-m.-s

wow! This is deep

Indeed... the radiators in the winter months are occupied frequently Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The ramones Pet Semamtary while my Sphynx soaks up the heat from a BIII Pro fed by a core i5

F'n awesome ! Thanks Pars Here's the parking spot

I can tell you that I used a $5 usb cable from Amazon in my setup for a year or so. I figured there was enough isolation and reclocking in the Amanero/Chronos/Rhea stack that a better cable wouldn't matter. I was able to get a hold of an Audioquest Cinnamon USB cable for $35 out of pocket so I thought let me try it. I'll tell you I tried to remain as objective as humanly possible but I heard a positive difference with the better quality cable.

In similar situations I sometimes make the techs realize that the client is paying their salary. I usually get silence after that and then my way. However I understand the situation

+1

I'll check again, but I think they were 6-7ma

I had the 389's and got the 109's from a guy on diyaudio that had a good rep. I measured the resistance between pins 1 and 3 then 5 and 7 and they both came out at like 50 Ohms. Then I checked them with a transistor tester and they both showed up as jfet. As far as I can tell they're real.

built some JFET boards for a Dynalo Mini

I wound up ditching that kit I got from ebay since there was little in the way of protection if the regulators failed. A few weeks ago Salas over at DIY audio came up with the L-Adapter board. He tested failure in three different ways all of which ended with 0V on the output. I got the board last week and will be ordering parts in a few weeks https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/power-supplies/336685-adapter.html I should have all the parts by the end of August

I have one... Do you still need them?

Get well bro... I know all about underestimating recovery time tables. I had major ankle surgery in February and I'm still on crutches lol