sbelyo

yep that's right. If you have to drop one to make it fir you can cut out the 35. I really only need the 25 and 50VA

I wasn't sure how to draw the traces. I figure leave the primary and secondary alone so anyone and choose 115 or 230 on the primary and parallel or series on the output

Ok, excuse my crude drawing but this is my idea for a basic dual side by side layout. The AC in and out would just be the normal terminal block we all use. 5.08mm pitch with a 1.3 mm hole. I use 4-40 stand offs so the holes would be 3.26 mm or there abouts. Not sure what size hole is usually standard for that. For the transformer pin spacing and hole size I circled the 25, 35, and 50 VA models, the specs are in the chart. I was looking to do those three. Let me know what you think.

sure, let me get cracking.

that's just what I was looking for... The 50VA is just slightly bigger unfortunately. I did order some protoboard so that's most likely what I'll use

Does anyone have or know where I can find a board that would let me mount a single or side by side Amveco PC mount low profile toroidial transformers? I'm just looking for a board that would have AC in and out going to terminal blocks and allow the use of standoffs. Amveco PC mount low profile 50VA toroidial transformers https://talema.com/wp-content/uploads/datasheets/70000K-72400K.pdf If not, I'd gladly pay someone for their time to lay out a board for me. Something like the pic in here

They do At least she is using Itunes. My wife is trying to figure out how to play CD's

This is just sad...

love that movie! "How dare you make hand party with Pamela"

It's all the parts to build a Dynalo MkII and a GRLV to power it. Stocking up for the winter build season

yeah, I read that just now. Good Night that's some force to push a bit like that through your hand!

was that straight through with a nail? opened a fat sack from mouser

Right, I still have my original too

should I socket the LED's? I remember doing this on my original Dynahi to get the offset as low as possible. Here's the latest with LED and cap changes Dynalo MkII Rev 1.2.xls

You're right, I had wondered if those LED's were wrong. I've swapped them for what you posted. For the 5pF I believe it's 5mm but will measure again tonight. Back when I built the original Dynahi I had to swap out LED's to get the lowest offset IIRC. Is that the case here?

I noticed that some are using a better quality resistor for the 20R. I was thinking of using Takman in this spot. Does it pay to use something like Takman or PRP in this spot?

Finished the BOM, I'm pretty sure I got it all. This is for one board. Take a look and let me know if I missed anything or there are better part choices Dynalo MkII 1.2 Mouser.xls

Yeah, I realized that about the PP 4.7uf early on, just thought I was missing something. I'll swap the electrolytics out for these https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/667-63SXE100M So I can definitely leave the 4.7uf film caps unpopulated then?

Got it... I see Pars left them unpopulated

I can't seem to find Wima PP that fit at Digikey or Mouser. I can find PET though, will these work? https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/WIMA/MKS2B044701K00JC00?qs=sJjjjplDs9usMRoEQsMxiQ%3D%3D

What type of caps should I use for the caps I circled in red?

I thought about the parts I have for building 30V GRLV boards for my dynahi, I noticed that the tantalum caps are all rated at 25. Should I increase them to 50V when building for 30V?

I felt a bit of throw up in my mouth as well

it makes me want to watch the series! Love it! Couldn't stop thinking Jesse was using meth again

That's some sketchy shit right there