alex_o rules

*g* yeah, I did some stupid stuff back in Van. My intentions were good, but it is what it is. Life's changed a great deal in that five years. Shame on me.

?! Ok. I am a 35 year old guy who has lived in GA for quite some time and grew up near Buffalo. I mean, sure Buffalo is near Canada and all, but this is pretty insane.

Ok- this is annoying me. Kevin and I exchanged a few PMs and he had mentioned the 'trevornetwork' thing, and that I should do some searching on HF. I decided to do so, and I think the only thing he and I have in common is our name. We don't even live in the same country!

No idea. After I purchased the amplifier I noticed the same guy 'teejay' on HF selling a pair of 'mint condition HD800 that are just a bit dusty'. I'm not sure what his deal is. I did a really thorough cleaning job and it looks exactly like the pictures Naaman posted up a few years ago. I take much better care of my stuff than momo it seems.

That's fair. Consider this one case closed.

Understood. Is there a substantial sonic difference between +/-360 and +/-400? I will be using SR-Omegas.

I did. Look, I'm not looking for people that don't know me to be my buddy. I do think that being negative because someone is not one of the regulars or an EE is not that great. Seriously, this forum is loaded with posts with people looking for even basic troubleshooting from more experienced folks.

I'm primarily referring to Augsburger's response above and Grawks plastic chassis response. There have definitely been some helpful posts in the thread, it just went downhill when the seller was brought up.

Clue me in here. I'm newer to the headphone scene and have built a few simpler amps, the most complex being a beta22. I suspect that many people that build amps are not electrical engineers, and probably could not detail why more sophisticated designs were done the way they were. Moreover, I'd imagine that many (most?) people in the DIY scene are not well versed in how active components work. When I came here it was with a question about the PSU on a Blue Hawaii I bought. I had my hat in my hands looking for some tips. Instead I feel like I'm being lambasted for purchasing an amplifier from a guy that I'm finding out is not well regarded. Look, I know that the Blue Hawaii is a complex design, but just because I did not build it because I know my own limits, doesn't make me a bad guy.

Well, I'm not sure why there is so much hostility in this thread. I purchased an amplifier from someone I am now finding out was less-than-reputable, that was built by someone who was very well respected. My goal is to do what I can to get it as close to where it was as possible. All in all it seems to work quite well, and after the cleaning it looks excellent both in and out. The reason why I am here asking for some assistance. There seems to be a many talented people on headcase, and I thought it would be a great place to help me out. Voltron nailed I think, by saying there are alot of bad BHs out there. That's why I did not attempt to build it myself, and decided to buy one instead.

Admittedly I felt that I was gaining knowledge and contributing. I have read many other threads on troubleshooting gear. Also, the chassis is made of aluminium with wood accents. The heatsinks are securely attached to the chassis. Am I not getting something? Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk

Hmmm. Interesting. I was unaware of the history. I briefly played it yesterday, and it seemed to work fine. Other than the odd voltage out of the power supply and the dust it seems to be ok. My concern is that someone, possibly momo messed with the zeners for some reason. Oddly, I did not see any obvious evidence of tampering on the zeners in question. Is there any other history on momo, or the amp?

I'm getting a bit worried here. Some history please?

I've built amplifiers and other electronic devices before with success. Using a meter to measure DC voltage between two points is well within my capability. It's pretty simple to measure DC voltage between the +/-400V and ground. It's also simple to measure across the zeners. I would say that since I measured approximately ~150V on the two zeners labeled 150V, and then measured about 50V on the zeners in question would seem to imply I did not do anything wrong.

Also, to verify my measurements I used two calibrated meters, a LEM LH1025 and a Fluke 179. Both produced the same measurements.