DouglasQuaid

I am beyond behind nowadays and don't even know what this is. I suddenly want one though.

Thank you all for welcoming me into the age of fragile hips and knees.

Those geekrias are probably the same as a set I ordered on ebay a year or two ago. There are dozens of postings for the same product. The center protrusion flattens out pretty smoothly once you've used them a while. These are comfier than I remember flats ever being. I haven't purchased flats in a very long time, so I can't do a sound comparison. I want to say that these have a similar distance to the ear. Total thickness seems to be 20mm, with the pad thickness above the driver being 10mm. Anyone out there with a set of calipers able to measure out the thickness of TTVJ flatpads? edit: Thickness measurements are of a used set while on the headphones. If I find my spare set, I'll give them a slap on the arse with my calipers.

Thank you to all you lovely people... And Brent too. I shall celebrate by setting fire to some budget audio gear.

I like to call it tactical deceleration. @Aimless1 FYI... I've lent my KZ-ATE to my nephew a few times to use on his switch. They're not a permanent solution by any means, but I haven't heard any complaints and they are under $20.

So a year has passed since anyone mentioned the Soekris. Has anyone else here purchased one and form an opinion yet? NT-503 looks temptingwith today's ebay promotion. edit: I'm a dope and the soekris has its own thread. Thanks for your input, gepardcv.

On an equally relevant note, I haven't heard Ace of Base on the radio in years.

I probably should not have entered this thread, but that loaf is damn near inspiring, Mikey.

I like to point things out. It's what I do. While I think flats are pricey, anyone already planning to pick up a replacement soon wouldn't be spending that much more in grabbing one of these. I'll stick with my cheap-bastard HD414 pads while they are still about $10 apiece. Even if you need to buy a knife to cut the holes, you're still saving a bunch of dosh. Consumer matters, automotive matters, anti-Colin matters

But only the best batters have butter.

Did any of you goons buy into this one during the kickstarter? I was a bit wary of buying into a game so early in development, but the scope's looking pretty damn big now, and it's still in alpha. It's a huge space simulator in a huge persistent universe, but it also has some more simplified sub-games like arena combat and space racing. There's a free weekend going on right now, so I'll probably fly around and shoot at junk. It's a bit of a behemoth download at 27gb, so my condolences to any of you recently inflicted with Comcast. https://robertsspaceindustries.com/ for more info on what the game is about. It won't be listed on steam or origin, since it's basically a company that started with a kickstarter and has pulled in something like 100mil in crowdfunding. There's no publisher to breathe down their backs to cut content to make arbitrary deadlines, but also no one to force them to cut back on hookers and blow so things can get done. Hence, you need to sign up on their website: https://robertsspaceindustries.com/enlist. My referral code is STAR-HQPD-Q546 if you want some free in-game-dosh. Just enter it in on the sign up page. If you have a buddy that already has the game and you think he's prettier than I am, feel free to use his code as you get the same benefit... though I won't get the fancy little go-cart. edit: Free "weekend" is apparently expanded to last until the 8th. Anyone want to do some junk in game let me know. Game's pretty fun, but obviously incomplete. Ship balance doesn't appear to be one of the dev concerns right now, so the pvp arena is a bit iffy.

Have you tried the new Beats electrostat amp? It really is revolutionizing the industry.

Not nearly desperate enough for the DSD upgrade, unless I can get the upgrade for about 2k (not paying 3k to essentially have refurb equipment of something no one I trust has auditioned). I'll either do a swap for a mk2, or look for another dac (perhaps the m51 or the auralic vega).

Well, now there's one way to hyperinflate your dynamic range specs.

I wish i had jumped on the mk2 upgrade kit earlier. Apparently they don't offer upgrade boards to the mk2 anymore. They do have upgrade boards, but it's a friggin' $3k upgrade to some fancy new directstream dac (damn thing's 6k new). That's a good bit of distance from what I wanted to spend.

To anyone who loves Robocop and isn't afraid of some really NSFW Robocop remake action... This is an absolute must-see. Warning: Thar be dicks down yonder.

It's a bit overkill, and those 6.3V outputs would only be useful to you if you wanted to link up some digital circuitry off a second psu. You'd still need to fit a second transformer in there somewhere.

I still haven't bothered to put a pretty knob on my kgss. It stilll has some undersized mouser knob I had originally planned to put on a little hammond case. Perhaps I shall make it a plan to finish this one up before you build two new amps.

It's been a couple years since I've touched pcb software, but it shouldn't be much work to fit some pot legs between the current setting resistor. That being said, it would probably be a heck of a lot safer to put a base resistor and have a trimpot after it. This is all assuming that the resistors at those positions can be measured while the board is populated. If they can't, then this all moot and I'd need to use resistors and jumpers. Either a selector jumper to choose between two resistors, or two resistors in series added together and a jumper to short one of them for higher current. Again, the board's already pretty tight, so this might make things larger. It's been a while since I've dealt with transistor designs, but I don't believe that resistor sees more than 2V of potential difference and whatever current the resistor is set to. If that's the case, then we might be able to get away with SMD resistors at these positions, perhaps the 3rd stage current source as well, and not have a significant change in the size of the board. Please correct me if my assumptions are incorrect with these values, as my transistor analysis is rusty. 1. Are these alternate parts pin-compatible with the 4686A? 2. I'll be down for a few sets, especially if they end up being used in another project.

Aah, so you're the one who jumped into chat and then bailed without even saying hi. I don't trust you.

I was wondering how people would go about re-adjusting the offsets on their offboard amps. Trying to adjust those pots with the board turned up 90deg seems far too easy to slip the screwdriver and cause some fireworks. I'm assuming you'd need to lay the boards and sinks on their sides before doing any adjusting. Seems like a set it and forget it attitude is best for those builds.

Perhaps the usage was misinterpreted. It wasn't meant to be continually toggled while the amp is powered up. Likely just used prior to powering up to run the amp at a lower bias for the angry summer months. Though I suppose a jumper on the pcb would be much more effective.

How viable would it be to set up an amplifier to have multiple bias current settings? The mechanics would be pretty simple, assuming the existence of small rotary switches that are rated for the voltage. I'd like to assume that a 6-12" run of wire to a switch and back wouldn't cause any noise or instability, but I've seen lesser things cause problems. I'd also be curious if zeroing the dc offset would be required for every bias change. This would mainly just be to tune down the current when the weather starts to get hot and nasty, then turn it back up when things cool down. I have the feeling I'm grossly overestimating how big of a change in total power usage and heat generation this would actually make.

That ship has sailed, was raided by pirates, and the crew left for dead on a deserted island. The deserted island was then raided by ravenous sea birds, hit with a friggin tsunami, and then covered with sharp coral and poisonous jellyfish.

Seriously making me want to start buying parts Though I'll probably want to replace my sr007 first, damn thing's unrepairable at this point.