chinsettawong

The problem isn't the corroded stators. The coating on the diaphragm often deteriorates over time. If you want to fix it, you'll need to recoat your diaphragms. By the way, how can you tell that the stators are corroded without opening them up? Wachara C.

I checked everything on mine, and I can't really find anything wrong either. But it just won't adjust any voltages. I now start to think that it could be the fault at PCB or the plate through holes. Wachara C.

I took out the VRs, and a few TRs around active battery. I couldn't find anything wrong with them, and so I put them back. One channel worked but the other didn't. No matter how I turn the VR, the active battery voltage stays at max.

In the beginning, I had this same problem on both channels. I took out some parts to measure and put back. And somehow one channel worked. But the other channel didn't. I've sent it to a friend to help me trouble shoot now.

I have the same problem with my 2nd T2. I can't seem to find the cause of the problem.

Can I have 50 pieces, please? Thanks. Wachara C.

Wow! Really? I wonder why they do it differently.

I really wish I could be there.

May I ask a question about how to measure the capacitance of an electrostatic driver? Do you measure the capacitance across one stator to the other or do you measure across one of the stators to the diaphragm? Wachara C.

Looking forward to seeing that soon.

Nice work RiStaR! Wachara C.

Will there be a new revision for off board PCB too?

Now we need a group buy.

I wonder how that fixed headband of Float's would fit to an extra large or extra small head.

Mini size high volt supply is just what I need. Wachara C.

For the time being, this is a quick and easy fix for my ventilation problem.

I did that once with my DIY T2 PS.

I just tested and found that I have a ventilation issue with this layout. As soon as I put the top cover on, the offset and balance shift up. They go up as much as 20+v. No good. I might try to put the PS on the upper part and the amp boards to go below.

That's a nice build, Victor. Looking forward to seeing your finished amp. Wachara C.

My KGSSHV is done. The chassis and the heatsinks aren't very good match, but since I have them sitting around, I might as well just use them. It sounds really nice with all my DIY headphones. Thanks Kevin for your wonderful amp design. Wachara C.

That's a nice build. Congratulations! Wachara C.

Since the mesh screen isn't as flat as the PCB and the alignments of the two stators can't be exact, my guess is that the electrostatic field won't be as homogeneous as that from PCB stators. But if it's just for a fun factor, then I think it's worth going for it. I'll see if I can do something here. Wachara C.

Do you know how fine the mesh of the stator needs to be? I wonder just what an advantage there is for using the mesh stator over their later PCB stator version. Wachara C.

That won't be too difficult.

Graphite powder isn't so easy to apply to the Mylar. To get a nice and even coating is time consuming and can be very difficult. The problem is that graphite powder just does't stick to Mylar very well. I opened up a pair of Stax SR207 a few weeks ago, and it seemed to me that the coating they used was very similar to what I've been applying to my DIY sets. I use electrostatic cleaner gel. Wachara C.