pedefede

OK - got most of the parts finally ... so soldering has finally begun !! (It will probably last long, as im building at least 5 projects simultaniously....) I noticed Inu "lifted" a lot of components .. especially the zeners and diodes - while Kevin mounts most components on the PCB surface. I suppose its probably a heat issue. But (besides its easier), the PCB also holds a groundplane to shield some noise ... So is there any reason to lift other than the power-resistors? peter

I found a nice way to get the stuff from McMaster, that i want to share. I made a US-address at www.nybox.com, where McMaster did want to ship. I also shipped order from future eletronics, and partsconnexion to the nybox-address. Nybox then put all 3 packages into 1, and shipped it to me B) So i only had to pay 1 oversee-shipment+toll!!! So building process starts tomorrow. I will wait with the last small order from Banzaieffects, - since there will probably turn some little forgotten/broken part up, during the proces. Peter

You can try Partsconnexion: DIODES-64784 is similar: IXYS 12A 1000V Ultrafast, Soft Recovery (FRED) Epitaxial Diode (trr = 50 ns; TO-220AC package DSEI12-10A, 2.95$ I finally put together an order for screws at McMaster ... but even though i was able to make an acount, they are not willing to ship oversee "Due to the complexity of U.S. Export regulations, McMaster-Carr has decided to only accept orders from a few, long-established customers of ours overseas" Does any US/canadian etc. want to help me: buy the stuff and mail it to me, and get pay'd through paypal? I have a excel-sheet (BOM) that can make the order in 2 sec. Peter

On the Latest schematic for the PS, there are two types of 0,1uf Caps: C26-29 for decoupling the 100uF caps (before ref102) (these seems to be located on the PCB between the ref102 and op27) C30-33 between the 2sc3675 and op27 These seems to be added later on. - And i cant find any spot for them on the PCB ?!? - Nor are they meantioned in the BOM ?!? Anyone got an explanation?

I am about to order the very last parts soon (trafo, screws, etc) - whenever i get the time (you know ... kids & work ). I also have a DAC-build pending - but some time soon, i might join you in the buildingproces as well peter

Hi All If others europeans also are sourcing parts - I can recommend to also look at the danish site: PC ELEKTRONIK (Site is in danish, but send an email ... or use "s

also a question about interpreting these (american?) Screw dimensions. The BOM says: "#5-40/.25 hex cap" Is that M5 thick / 40 mm long / 0,25 inches hexogonal hole?

Thanks for the picture, spitzer. Agreed - it can be done with MUCH more quality/stability, shorter wire etc. But im talking about the principle ... and on the other picture: ImageShack® - Online Photo and Video Hosting you join/stack 2 components as well - soldering the leads together. Not very different from twisting. I can fit them in the 1w / 3w resistor positions. But it is in the

How excactly do you form them?

At the risk of being totally flamed ... :chair: I know that "solution" 1) and 2) are bad - as stated in my post. But I dont think, that my prefered solution no. 3) is NOT sooooo bad, "double-ass" compromising, vasting the project. In 4 locations, I would use solutions, which are wellknown technics used in p2p projects in other tubeamps, that also show caracteristics of heat, highvoltage, etc. As an example - here is a picture from the audionote L3 phono preamp kit (from Mostly Audio - Building an Audio Note L3 Phono Stage Kit). Notice the twisted wires on the mica-caps: http://www.mostlyaudio.com/_images/Builds/L3Phono/pb_2hour007.jpg So at the cost of a little extra time, an extra solderjoint, and practically the same mechanical stability - i get to use a better sounding resistor, with higher voltage and heat ratings. In the end, - this has to be a project of years to come. For me personally, that includes listening to the music - instead of thinking about that cheap magnetic resistor i put in the signal path.

Finally got my cabinet from the danish custom service - It looks very cool, thanks Kevin I allready had to buy the bunch of shinkohs from PCX, before the cabinet arrived (as I wanted to use the 20% november-discount). I had to do some tweaking, to source the right values. For instance - i bought 2W versions at some locations where

OK, leaving resistors aside ... Are there any of the transistors, IC or diodes, that also can be upgraded, or exist in a better version, than on the BOM ?

Hmm .. i tested yesterday with a magnet. - Audionote 2w = magnetic - shinkoh

The original T2 har xicon resistors - however quite a few have chosen other/better parts. It would be quite interesting to hear other peoples sound review/feedback/impressions, of their new amp - combined with their choice of combonents.

hmm, got to select/source parts now ... As I mainly have my experience from normal pure tube speaker-amps, I would really appreciate some hints/comments, to my current ideas: (SS - decition seems easy, "just" have to find the piece (bdent, future, allied, ebay) ). By the way - does any of the transistors need to be matched? (or just find close pairs for +/- part of the circuit) caps - not a lot. Silver mica on small, PP on the rest - except PSU. Anyone tried bypassing the 680uF with say 1uF film caps? Resistors .. wow, a lot. Of cause i can do like Spitzers suggestion (mainly good bang/bucks PRP). But i would like to add GOOOOD resistors (whipe drooling) to the critical positions - but where is that? - My guess: is around the input/output parts, i.e. mainly the tubes. Like R 94/95, 7/8, 78/79, 96/97 ??! (anybody know the voltage limit of tantalium resistors (Shinkoh, Audionote) btw ... Partsconnexion has 20% discount for the rest of the week ... (damn, more drool) Peter

hmm ... looking for the ultimate amp for my stax, and this seems to be the winner for a lot of years to come, so ... my wife will hate me but.... i would like to buy the chassis+boards, if its still available. peter