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Everything posted by livewire
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Does anyone have the inside scoop on if the iPad 2 will be a decent streaming music server? Using what interface?
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They are Headamp boards, maybe Justin or one those who have bought these boards from him could answer that. Once upon a time I tried to procure these, but never received an answer to my request. Gee, how odd...
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Green solder mask over black pcb substrate maybe?
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Got any pix of the underside(s)? Gerbers would be better!
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Happy Happy Birfday to one of my favorite DIY'ers! Think I'll hoist one in yer honor.
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m c escher would be proud. Love the alien(s)pic! I think I found my new desktop background.
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That's what I am attempting to do. Then it might give you a good reason to go to our nascent meet and make the two hour drive down from LaLaLand.
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I aint no engineer. My abilities fall under the "tech" level. I built a MSSH. No problems. It works wonderful. Admittedly a beginner's project. I am now tackling a KGSSHV. Due to a couple of fuck-ups i am going through DIY hell. I am making a ton of mistakes. Aint done with the learning curve yet. No T2 for me, thanks.
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It's back to Mouser again. I think I need another 2SC4686A... I'm ordering a box-full of them as insurance. (the amp boards have a boatload of them too...)
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Me too! From what I see, you better have all of your technical ducks in a row if you gonna attempt that build. Definitely not a beginner DIY project.
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(long version) About a month ago while testing I slipped with the probe and shorted the two pass regulators. (fqpf8n80c) They were toasted along with the 10m90s and 2SC4686A sand in the positive rail. The 24 volt zener popped too. I had replaced them all yesterday and started to test again today. After noting the bar graph on my Fluke shooting past 600 volts and blanking the display, I shut it down. I went back to cold comparitive testing using the resistance scale. It was then noted that one of the devices that I had changed was shorted. (the 10m90s) The new one on the negative rail had an in-circuit reading of ~3K ohms between the gate and the other terminals, the new one on the positive rail was ~28 ohms. So, I guess it was a bad part or that the soldering did a number on it. This time around I bought extra sand. I replaced it a second time and everything is now working fine again on the +450VDC side.
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Yippee! I got the +450VDC psu rail working again. No more over-voltage issues to deal with. Now with one side good, I can revert to comparitive live testing between the good side and the bad side. Hopefully, I'll get the negative rail back up soon. That is if another parts order to Mouser isnt necessary.
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Got the repair parts in from Mouser, so troubleshooting the psu continues. Things still aint right, the negative 450 volt rail is still outputting only 15 volts. The positive rail which was completely dead, now has voltage, but it is off the charts. (at least as far as my 600 volt limited Fluke DMM is concerned.) This much higher than normal voltage is also backfeeding into the filter capacitors. o_O! That's not good! I am not able to read it, so I guess it is time to dust off my old Simpson 260 that is in storage in the garage, which is capable of reading up to 1000 volts. The only (high) voltage that is still normal on the psu board is the 580 volt bias output. At least I didnt blow that up. The 15 volt supply is also working again. What would be nice would be knowing some nominal testpoint voltages so I could test for those. I'm too stupid to figure out what the base/gate voltages should be that are fed in from the rather complex (to me) sub-circuits. (such as the "battery" circuit) Blub, blub, blub. (i'm trying to tread water here!)
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I'm jealous. Great screen res on that critter. Does it have Toslink out?
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Lenovo Y560 Notebook. It has optical out, gonna see how it fares as a music server.
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No I didnt call them. I guess I could, got nothing more to lose. Mouser does have a disclaimer on their website trying to discourage customers from using the USPS for their shipments due to this type of crap. I wish that they would use "signature confirmation" instead of the "delivery confirmation" option. With the former, they must deliver it to someone and have them sign. With the latter method any mailman can misdeliver it and sign off on it. (what I suspect happened here - my mailman is a demented old puke) UPS or Fedex aint much better, if I'm not home they will leave the parcel on my doorstep in plain view of any dirtbag walking by on the street, ripe for the pickin.
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Well this really sucks and blows. It seems the Post Office has lost my Mouser repair parts order. It had a tracking number, they say that they delivered it. It sure wasnt delivered to my address unless there is someone in the neighborhood stealing packages out of mailboxes. Am gonna place another duplicate order, this time shipped using another carrier. We'll see. Wait, wait, wait. Just curious. There are at least four other people out there with kgsshv board sets. It would be nice to hear of your progress in building this thing. Seems that I am going nowhere fast, maybe someday I'll hear music from it.
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10,000 Maniacs - "What's The Matter Here?"
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They are going in alright, my dremel with a drill rasp saw to that. The interference fit was a bit too tight, no problem chasing the TO-220 mounting holes about ~.002" with a dremel. The extended length shoulder washers* plopped right in the last time around. *Mouser p/n: 532-7721-3PPS Gonna do it again this time, using the ceramic oxide tombstones as Nattonrice suggested. Mouser does not carry the all plastic fqpf80n80c sand. (26 week lead time) So I'll be using the TO-220 sand I have with the exposed metal mounting tab. I've never used future electronics, Mouser is my friend.
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Heh, just dont use it for more than ten seconds. Massive meltdown to follow...