kevin gilmore

green amphenol military connectors. Definitely the right way to go. very nice.

the square ones work fine with my stax jacks. the round ones work regardless. best to mount Justin's jacks to the front panel first, or drill all the way thru the front panel and use screws and nuts and then you can take it off.

use the little stax jack circuit boards. makes it easy.

so lets see cross coupled cathodes... Nope ultralinear... Nope enough gain to lower distortion... Nope local feedback around the phase inverter... Yup and bad too etc why didn't they just copy the mc40

ss dynahi way too much power for hd800's you would be much better off with the ss dynalo.

dynahi and especially the ss dynahi have a lot more output voltage swing and are suitable for he6. ksa5 not really suitable for he6 if you want to play loud. Sound however is fairly close.

The 1M servos are now 100k and the integration cap is 1uf. and the input resistors to ground are 100k (does not matter if you use the jfets) latest board pic http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/ubaltobald3.jpg

the pots on the opamps will actually do very little. and the front end is not cascaded the 10uf servo caps need to be 1uf and the bias resistor should be 240 to 255 ohms. change parts as necessary to make that board identical to the schematic.

what is the amp with the horizontal green stripes top and bottom?

the boards you have are the ss dynalo boards, here is the schematic http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/kgdynalobalssproduction.pdf your boards are slightly different. work fine with the that340 part and a 10k pot. just amazing sound into all headphones I have tried. the unbalanced to balanced thing is http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/ubaltobald.pdf and really the that340 needs to be replaced with fets for high impedance sources

on the first board you have to flip the leads on the 2n4393. if you well match the two fets, you can delete the servo.

i was using 6s4 in the GES about 10 years before everyone else the exstata was and continues to be a clusterfuck

remove the opamps. make sure the 2 pots that adjust output voltages are in exact center hook it up, and adjust the led bias pot for best output voltages around zero. put the opamps in, and adjust the other pots for pin6 on the opamp close to zero.

srmxh, srm212,srm313, srm323 are all exactly the same thing with different current source transistors and different power supply voltages. not sure about the srm3 cavalli LL2T is a srm313 front end, the 007t output section with 6s4 as the gain section and a completely wasted pair of mosfets as the output stage. Takes more power to drive the mosfet output stage, than if the gain section was the output section. At least it sounds better than the frist two versions (so really it should be a LL3) which were pure shit. Wonder where alex got the idea to use 6s4? The only way to make a srm323 better would be to regulate the power supply voltages. Which is impossible in that size box. would need a different transformer and twice as many power supply caps plus some heatsinking for the pass transistors

the klone was done exactly as the original. Same exact board size. Each component in exactly the same place. Layout the same. Except done by computer, not tape and mylar. Why, because we can. if you want a klone of a klone buy the cheap pieces of shit on ebay. they made all sorts of awful modifications.

the grateful dead altamont system

i always like the belle klipsch better.

use the rear end of a drill bit the right size to open up the holes. some of those sockets are real garbage

not the spritzer i know. maybe you are thinking of someone else. the stax mafia uses discretes for everything. And yes we use opamps for servo's, but that is it. Even for the power supply its a discrete opamp.

that is because (among other reasons) birgir wants things to be as tiny as possible.

the lead spacing on the board for the .1uf cap is 3.5mm but the .1inch caps do fit. the 5pf caps are 5mm lead spacing by the way, I have a new name for the thing... PureBipolar (tm&c) would apply to the ss dynahi too.

i don't like those sockets, but otherwise ok.

parts list in progress so with the pot its about $300 in parts. need mounting screws, standoff's etc... item # $ 240 ohm 4 0.2 0.8 680 ohm 8 0.2 1.6 402 ohm 12 0.2 2.4 2.74k ohm 8 0.2 1.6 3.01k ohm 8 0.2 1.6 24.9k 4 0.2 0.8 5k 4 0.2 0.8 10k 6 0.2 1.2 49.9k 8 0.2 1.6 100k 4 0.2 0.8 20 ohm 32 0.2 6.4 14 pin ic socket 0.97 1uf 4 0 5pf 4 0 100uf 8 0 4.7uf 8 2.37 18.96 op07 4 1.56 6.24 that340 2 6.4 12.8 mpsw56 22 0.44 9.68 mpsw06 22 0.51 11.22 led 4 0 10k pot 6 0 haa15-.8-ag 63.63 boards 2 10 20 galaxy 288 69 rk27 quad neutrik chassis female 5 4.29 21.45 253.55

5 pin is the only way

not bad for a senior citizen http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/dynalobalss.jpg I don't even do any metal work by hand anymore, even for the bottom panel which is just 8 holes, I do it in the NC mill and unlike Mikhail the holes end up in the right place the first time.