kevin gilmore

its balanced so a fair bit more power the first ebay link is the one I use at work. really sounds great, although getting the drivers out of them is fun because they send you to a link that wants your cell phone number. the drivers are available on the web anyway.

audio-gd nfb-1 amp is $485 plus $50 for remote and then any of the dsd dac's on ebay like the douk super pro for $90 audio-gd is infinitely better for little more, way better built, way better sound etc, and a se to balanced conversion that actually works right correctly balanced, differential complementary, zero feedback...

piviot point? where ? more like 3 db of differential gain when you use single ended input and balanced output (high gain mode) worse in low gain mode. there is a way to do this correctly, and you only need a couple of super cheap extra parts. hint: a real differential input, like say the one on the kgss power switch as all the other switches are cheap parts, and the power switch failed shorting one side to ground blowing the house circuit breakers. also for places where the thing is wired for 220v, only one side of the mains is switched. fake on left, real thing on right other side of the switch is used to dump the output relays on turnoff, and there is no protection circuit from dc, just a 1 minute delay timer even the magni 2 uber is better than this piece of shit. at least its a balanced vas stage. here is the updated final schematic http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/sj.pdf and yeah the 4 diodes around the opamps are missing from the schematic, i'm lazy

not really sure what the point is. you took one of my layouts, and removed all the resistor values making it harder to stuff and verify. you also took off the acknowledgements of kerry gerontianos and james lin please take my name off the board

stax is certainly not the only company doing this. krell in a whole bunch of its products puts in a custom microprocessor chip that looks at line frequency, so if you have a usa unit at 60hz it won't even turn on at 50hz. and of course a few have developed plug and play circuits to fake the 60hz.

12v filament version posted pretty sure the original was done the way it was to accomodate the 6dj8 tubes for those that wanted to do that edit: the filaments of the output tubes are tied to -450v on the board

the conversion to 12V filament for the small tubes is easy and I should be able to get that done tomorrow, too many other things got in the way today.

1 ) yes 2) yes 3) the 4 tubes in the middle can either float or tie to -vcc yes the front end tubes are 6.3v, so 1.2 amps

no on the 3 terminal regulators. each output tube is 1.5 amps so that is 4 x 1.5 amp windings and 1 x 6 amp winding all the input tubes are in parallel, so 12V at 600ma

228.0 x 228.0

that looks a fair bit different than the first units

why no one tell me I got the wrong hole size... updated goldenreference6d file.

probably close to 50 milli ohms with a voltage gain of 10

highly unlikely the board is bad maybe you are connecting the transformer to the wrong place, center tap of transformer goes to the middle pin and for single bridge the other 2 wires go next to the center pin if there is no raw dc voltage on either of the main power caps, the bridge is toast or not the correct type for this board

joamat did this on a T2

OH boy is he taken!

I have never tried to get it to work that low, highly likely you have to use the 7V reference chip. Then it should work

i don't remember ever picking elna caps, definitely did pick the wima caps will look when i get home

I have seen ground loops do the 50(60) and 100(120) bumps, but never that amount of wideband noise. a missing ground wire between the pot and board ground could do it.

very noisy input fets or fakes, and volume pot of too high impedance. original was 10k pot.

i was wondering how you were going to do 3 layers in your kitchen, now i know

Definitely return it if you can otherwise get a scope and see if you get clock to the d/a outputs both before and after the opto isolators then see if you get any data etc.. My guess is that the input board is in trouble and I can't imagine anyone actually be willing to troubleshoot something that old filled with obsolete parts. check the +/-15 at each d/a board, same thing with the 5v

this definitely looks like NoNoNoNoNoNo class work. I have a few of his dead attempts in the basement, Jacob will remember. better question would be why you would want to put any more money into this in an attempt to fix it

warning: DO NOT DO THIS Mikhail did this with his "high voltage option" and zapped a number of people if you really must switch secondaries, use high voltage relays rated for 1kv or more isolation and even then, the inrush current might weld the contacts shut.

Outstanding