kevin gilmore

received this in the mail today img048.pdf img049.pdf img050.pdf img051.pdf

here is how to do it with just enough feedback to keep it flat and stable trilogy.PDF

So an absolute maximum open loop gain of less than 1000 and at least 8db down at 20khz due to resistive loads. nice job.

that's AMB's power supply

the ones with the evaporator on the back of the unit typically last only a few years when you build them in, because there is no place to get rid of the heat generated. then the compressor burns up, and no way to fix it.

no idea at this point what the part numbers are, nothing on the bags.

the ones I used had the bottoms of the pins covered and were black

So I do things by specifications. The yggy is a 20 bit monolithic converter, not really designed for audio, and certainly not the fastest settling thing on the planet. Getting that design to do DSD is absolutely impossible without a completely separate DSD section. But it was the first rationally priced thing out there. And that was 3 (??) years ago. The 24 bit - 27 bit R2R things these days (the sign magnitude ones) (even the uncompensated ones) have much better specs, accuracy,speed,glitch energy etc. So it now becomes a matter of whose firmware is best. blurring the lines are hybrid firmware that extends DSD up to 6 bits, upsampling pcm to dsd etc. And for sure the firmware will continue to get better and better. Watching audio-gd, denafrips,holo and soekris duke it out is going to be a great thing for consumers. MSB and T+A and a few other of the high priced spreads (with no reason) are going to have some trouble.

never listened to a yggy, so I have no comments other than it does not do DSD, 25% of my collection is DSD, and there are a number of products out now that outperform the yggy at a fraction of the price. The $350 audio god for example The joutenheim really is a piece of overheating poorly sounding shit.

last year was really bad for tomatoes. This year however they are coming out of my ears picture was about 2 weeks ago, now they are coming in faster than we can eat them

Unlikely, they would have to be much bigger heatsinks, the output tubes are probably good for 9 watts total each

does not look regulated to me. at least not the high voltage, just a diode bridge and a pair of caps low voltage looks like 3 terminal regulators

Not enough voltage gain that way

There is only one pair of coupling caps, so it pretty much has to be Srx or Srx like so the caps are 400v, so voltages roughly the same as t8000

Pm sent its an 8 speed and I am told the shimono handles are a direct replacement once you deal with the cable stops the down tube is 1.75 inches so other solutions will not work the torr seal seems to be holding for now

the torr seal is holding for now, hopefully the parts coming in are usable. But if you can find someone with the original parts new or used or even broken I will be able to remanufacture with the threaded rod. Very surprised at the idiot that designed this, way too much stress on a 5mm threaded rod with 75th side walls may even switch to brake handle actuators and then recreate the stops for the cables kind of like this idea http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOOSE-RACING-One-Sided-Made-to-Order-37-57mm-Clamp-On-Downtube-Shifters-Adapter/152651747057?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D41376%26meid%3Dd588e1824d874fb78025ab745f3baefc%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D3%26sd%3D152651737182&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

shifter boss assembly is broken, the threaded rod has the remains of the attachment for the right side. sent an email to kozy, nothing back yet. also ordered thread repair kit with m5 inserts, and 1 meter long 5mm threaded rod. first kind of epoxy pulled out in a minute, trying torr-seal now. the way it worked was that the rod was attached to the one end with thread lock and then the other end, you can tighten down and then the black piece holds it all in place. then the shifters are attached with bolts on each side.

well they are more annoyed by birgir's comments. i'm slightly more politically correct. (when I wanna be)

that is what I bought, should be here tomorrow, really don't like that you have to epoxy everything together. The cannondale part number is A095 Kit, Shift Boss, 1.75 inch diameter tube, listed as obsolete please pm the seller and see if he will sell just the whole shifter set

next time he visits it has to be in the summer, need to put the top down, there are still marks found a generic repair kit that may or may not actually fit the down tube. instructions say to epoxy all parts of it together to the tube, who knows, its a cheap thing

nope, 5 feet 2 inches (on a good day)

yes please. stupid ass cheap parts 1.75 inch diameter down tube

anyone know of a place that sells vintage shimano parts, the shifter just cracked off the 24 year old cannondale tube shimano 105sc sl 1056 with bolt thru the tube (or recommendations for a new bike in the $2k to $3k range because anything i'm likely to do is going to be a hack job)

who made the thing, and inside pictures please. likely the thermal fuse inside the transformer went open, may be able to short it out.

my opinion is that it is very close to a 717. definitely sounds different from a 727.