kevin gilmore

here is bluebliss in action Head-Fi: Covering Headphones, Earphones and Portable Audio - View Single Post - Where is Singlepower? Where is Mikhail? and again Head-Fi: Covering Headphones, Earphones and Portable Audio - View Single Post - Where is Singlepower? Where is Mikhail? mikhail can say whatever he wants. The filament supply for the output tubes has to be rewired as a seperate circuit and referenced to B-. Everything you are describing is due to cathode leaking because Vk is significantly greater than 100 volts. 99% of intermittent performance can be traced to this major problem. The more mikhail continues to apply spin instead of fixing the problem the longer this will continue.

Once a WEEK.... OUCH. How many litres. My magnets hold for anywhere between 3 and 6 months. And my biggest magnet is 21 tesla. Whats the field on that thing, someting between 2 and 5 tesla... No wonder health care costs are so high.

R56 Dale 0507 J R57 Dale 0507 J R58 Dale 0637 J those are date codes, i'm looking for the number with typically an "F" after it. R53 I believe says 3.75W but what is the resistance... don't rotate any of the resistors if you can't read them. If you have an ohmmeter you could measure them r4,r104 is the color code yellow, purple, orange... very hard to tell from the picture as the camera probably skewed everything to green.

No... I never said that you said that. It is just that i'm working from pictures that people send me. If i was going to be consistently more accurate drawing schematics from units than i am now from pictures i would have to actually have the real thing to look at. That means someone would either have to send me a unit, or i would have to buy one. The chances of me actually purchasing a unit from mikhail is zero. It took me 3 tries to get the singlepower squarewave circuit exactly right... For example. If i make a mistake and someone points it out, then i will admit to the mistake. OK, the power fet on the extreme was a mistake. The cathode sitting at -350 volts on every single ES1 and ES2 is not a mistake.

lets see C51 and C?? 390uf 400v C52,C53 200uf 220v or is it 220uf 200v R54 .15 ohm 5 watt R50,R51,R52 50 ohm 5 watt C56,C57 22000uf 25v filament cap C4,C104 470uf 250v output capacitor R4,R104 47K ???? R10 2102 == 21k C1,C101 cathode capacitor r106,R107,R108,R109,R6,R7,R8,R9 250 ohm 5 watt R5,R105 ?? R56 ?? R57 ?? R58 ?? R53 ?? R1,R101 1004 == 1M R55 ?? How am i doing ??

values on all the resistors and electrolytic caps would be very handy in drawing up a complete schematic. And the voltage ratings on the caps. Getting a good picture of the bottom of the board thru the top of the board is quite tricky, and you typically need a very good camera and a ring flash. But in general, close the lens down as much as possible, and crank the flash as much as possible. Then a slight angle and the bottom of the board shows up. Put the camera on a tripod, and make sure the focus is perfect. Also shining a light under the board, and photographing from the top at high sensitivity usually works... Now that i have the time to stare at it a while i really think all 4 resistors are in series, so that it is probably 1k ohm, and there is probably 100 volts across those resistors, making for a total of 10 watts which is 2.5 watts per resistor, and if they are the same as the other resistors of that type they are rated at 5 watts each. See this is why good pictures are so important

Well if people would send me better high res pictures and tell me what they are pictures of, i would make less mistakes. If you think i'm going to ever buy any mikhail crap, you gotta be kidding. As far as the extreme pictured above, better pictures are needed from a couple different angles, taken with as much flash power as possible to see thru to the other side. With a better side shot, its easier to determine the resistor power, but sure looks like 5 watts each. Maybe only 3 watts each. And i definitely like the acetate changing color around R54... But here is my best guess. The output resistor to ground is 2 x 250 ohm in series. 500 ohms... REALLY... The zanadeux uses a 330 ohm resistor. The other 2 resistors probably also in series are probably in the plate to lower some of the tube output power. And you bet the thing runs stinkin hot. So depending on what the value of b+ is (something in the 150 to 200 range) the cathode resistor has 50 volts across it. So about 5 watts. And i definitely like the acetate changing color around R54

We now recycle 95% of our helium. It still is not cheap. The 50kpsi pump that makes the helium gets a new piston and seals every 8 weeks. Pain in the fucking ass. I very much doubt that the wide mouth dewar can withstand liquid helium temperatures. One of these days i will try. Yes that was a bob dylan sacd. Don't remember what the other 2 were, but i think they were also sacd's. They survived just fine (only listened to them a few seconds) One of the plastic cases however had a crack in it, and it turns out that plastic baggies evidently don't like liquid N2 they get and stay ultra brittle.

Here is how i do it. The controller can do .25 degree C per minute up or down http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/jordan1.jpg and the stuff i did for the guy over there http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/jordan2.jpg Now you got me interested in the power tubes thing again. So i'm going to accumulate a batch of el34's i don't care about and do it again. Although i'm going to stick them into an electrostatic amp, so its not really the same thing. The power tubes you did the experiment with could have been absolute crap...

Way better build quality than that other mod company. Should last as long as the player.

What you need to do now, is burn in the cryo'd tubes for say 10 hours, then put them aside for a day. Then listen again and see if you can hear the differences. In my tests, the cryo'd tubes return to normal (pre cryo) after a day or two of use.

I finished cryo treating a bunch of stuff for a guy over on head-fi. I expect his reports in the next few weeks. 1 day to cool down, 7 days in Liquid N2, 1 day to warm up.

quoting a complete and utter moron by the name of HeaphoneAddict I am just guessing, but if there is a baseline with the positive part of the signal above that and the negative below that - what if he further divides the positive phase into two by the part going up and the part heading back down, and does the same with the negative signal. That divides the right and left channel each into 4 segments = 8 Could that be it? look what happens when complete marketing bullshit is explained by a completely clueless jackass.

joe jackson 1982

Do tell. In a very long winded markl like manner... Don't forget about at least 4 pages on the power cord alone.

So here is a bit more entertainment. On ray's portables there is that big 10000 uf cap, and a source impedance that charges it of about 5 ohms. So a total charging time of about 200 milliseconds. Yet it takes months and months to burn in, so says ray. mikhail's thing is 2 x 1000 uf caps in parallel charged by a 1 meg resistor. charging time of about 63000 seconds... or about 18 hours. So true burn in takes about an eon or so...

But wait, there is more. Each individual output transistor is its own amplifier. So a balanced dynafet would be a 32 channel amp. But wait there is even more. A krell master reference monoblock as as stereo pair would be a 240 channel amplifier. The crap flowing from mikhail's mouth is just plain stupid. Like his steadfast insistence that the cathode resistor on the extreme is not really a resistor but rather a current sink. Same thing with the plate resistor on the ES1. Nope, its not a resistor, but rather a current source. Both sure look like resistors to me... Even ray has finally shut up about his $200 an inch military wire...

where is my shovel. I need to bury something. So my understanding is that a "push" is an amplifier, and a "pull" is another amplifier and for balanced you have a total of 8. New math, gotta love it. Then the standard square wave is a 4 channel amp??

Well bryston for one. But that is not what i'm referring to...

That and using all the remote control switching and attenuator products from Liteaudio of china, changing the led's to blue and then saying its completely custom. Its actually fun to try and get into a designers head and figure out how they come up with stuff. Clearly stuff from john curl, nelson pass, james bongiono, dan d'agostino, charles hanson... all have very distinctive and different, and immediately noticable design philosophy's. When i try to get into mikhail's head all i see is re-runs of "yellow submarine" and a lot of this stuff C20 H25 N3 O ((6aR,9R)-N,N-diethyl-7-methyl-4,6,6a,7,8,9-hexahydroindolo-[4,3-fg]quinoline-9-carboxamide) And to be fair, when i try and get into ray's head, all i see is the vast vacuum of space.

Not even close to the same. srm-001 is a capacitively coupled output single high voltage design with an opamp front end. The others are basically portable versions of the dc coupled srm-313 and run at lower voltages and lower currents. All 3 use a switching power supply. The sr-001 makes +600, +12 and -12 The other 2 make + and - 300

Need picture of XL to confirm. Here is my guess, the area taken up by the input switching and room for the dac is gone, replaced by a total of 4 amplifier circuits. 2 of which have the capacitor outputs. These are the + output of the balanced, and the output for the unbalanced. The - outputs of the balanced don't really need output caps. Since mikhail is absolutely so against any opamps, there is some cheesy unity gain inverter made out of a pair of fets to drive the - output when in unbalanced in/balanced out mode. Obviously there is no inverter necessary when running in balanced in/balanced out mode. I have figured out where mikhail got his output stage from and i have notified that person.

updated schematic, same name same place. I cannot find the words to accurately describe what i think of the capacitor output section...

I wonder what he does with the +5 volts

How much you wanna bet that the SS1 beast ($14k) is roughly the same thing on the inside. What a really mean joke to play on unsuspecting people.