kevin gilmore

Yep you are right, teflon tubing... Not what i wanted. What i'm talking about is .5 inch high plated tin tubes that are solderable and have a round bump at the end so they stay put. I can get a picture of the old ones, but no idea who still makes them. Edit: i saw what i wanted to see, hoping someone had found those things

I really wanted to use those spacers, because i have seen them used a bunch of times, but i could never find the part number for those things. Please post the part number for the spacers. I think its a good idea that everyone use them.

Stax design 100%. The T2 clone amplifier is absolutely identical (every single part and value) to the original. Thats the point. My power supply is very different. There are a number of design changes i could have done. (like different current source) and a bunch less parts. But then it would not be a T2.

new solid state designs.... check ESX board to fit into the T2 with the T2 power supply.... check (although i doubt more than a couple of people are interested in this) portable fully balanced dac with 4 channel digital volume control to .1db and balanced dynamic amplifier.... working on it no time for sleep, need to make some Bok Tong Go... The first try at this was pretty much a complete failure.

DOH...

quick pic of real front panel. http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/t2chassis28.jpg knob feels great. Only thing left to do on the chassis is determine where the 3 transformers mount.

More parts came in today. But still not all of them... Frustrating... anyway http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/t2chassis26.jpg http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/t2chassis27.jpg

Hopefully the parts i'm receiving this week will complete the amplifier chassis. Still missing a number of parts on backorder for the power supply.

Here is the way i look at this. And i'm about as anti-apple as anyone. With one of the remote desktop apps, and 3G this is the closest single piece thing i have seen that would allow me to connect to and interact with my real machines. Kind of expensive for just that purpose, but definitely worth it. The rest of what it does is completely useless to me. Others will come out with the same thing for much cheaper. Few will have the multi-touch and the led backlit screen, and 8 hours of battery life. Can't wait to see how much replacement batteries will cost when they die in a year. Other app that would be killer is a Crestron replacement at 25% the cost of a crestron.

Nope. Although that measures about .5mm Isn't a 5 digit digital mitutoyo digimatic a standard part of everyone's computer desk?? I have 3 on mine (different sizes) Plus a digital micrometer...

original omega connectors and the stax extension cable are both 19.25 mm my original O2's are 18.88 mm the sr-003's i have are 18.93 mm

The panel is .25 thick just like the real stuff. Some of the stax plugs are a bit larger than 18mm, so if i recess it then i have to machine a donut around it. Will try with the O2 plug later. The pins in the stax jack are already recessed about .05

So the test front panel. Need to adjust the depth of the blind screws a slight bit. Otherwise i'm definitely happy. http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/t2chassis24.jpg http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/t2chassis25.jpg

Get one of the battery powered sissor jacks. You can get ones that are 3 x 6 feet standing area, and go up about 30 feet. Lots of them available surplus these days cheap. And since they are portable (as in you can drive them) you can use it to get to the roof of the house. Like this except probably one or two sizes smaller. JLG 3369E Scissors Lift - eBay (item 230425510834 end time Jan-27-10 07:56:41 PST)

Boy do i like my new knob Its the perfect size, but maybe i will make a bigger one. 78 grams. It took longer because this is the first time i have used the NC lathe. Knob and shaft all one piece. Works great. Will put a dimple in the front later. Obviously i will be making a few more out of different metals, and at least one will have a dimple big enough for say a .25 carat diamond, or maybe a ruby. http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/knobb.jpg depleted uranium is roughly 7 times heavier. You really do have to break some arms (and a leg or two) to get enough of this for a knob. So i was shown a picture of something i really want. Its an orb, about 6 inches in diameter. It is a constant 84 degrees F. It is completely non-radioactive from the outside. Whats inside is 6 different metals, with about 18 grams of plutonium in the middle. Its a self powered hand warmer. I really have to find a way to get one.

Actually i'm going to be allowed to make one knob from depleted uranium... I have to pay extra for the carbide bit (or bits).

Don't need that idea. It would take too long to machine down that much metal from 1.5 to .25. Besides which i would have to clean up the mess afterwards. So far the only things that i will not be allowed to machine are depleted uranium and beryllium. Tried to do the aluminum one today, but had to go to the ramsey lewis concert for mlk day instead. With special guest and new professor of music at northwestern university victor goines. Wow these guys can swing.

knob will stick into the chassis .875 inches. A shaft coupler from there to delrin shaft to another shaft coupler to the pot.

You mean stainless... Anyway in full life size detail the pins http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/staxpins1.jpg http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/staxpins2.jpg The original pins on the left, marc's latest pins on the right

There are still the 4 hexhead screws that mount the panel to the rest of the chassis. I can get them just about any color.

Should have the real thing in a couple of days. Panel is 2.957 high and i don't remember how wide, look at the pictures. All that is on it is the volume knob in the middle and 2 of my stax jacks mounted via blind holes from the back. Vertically in line with the output tubes. (i.e. 2.575 + and - from exact center)

everyone is a critic. OK, now on to what will probably be pages and pages of discussion on the most important aspect of the amplifier. The KNOB. (pronounced 'KaNOBB") So i've been playing with the delrin shaft on the panel bearing, and it acts just like the real T2. Which is to say, it binds and generally sucks. So its blind hole time again. Since i don't want any visible setscrew holes, i think its best to machine the knob as one piece with a .875 shaft, and then the panel bearing will work perfect. Now on to the discussion of the diameter and thickness of the knob. If i exactly center it, which i now think i'm going to do, the diameter can be as big as 2.9525 inches. But i think that is a bit big. So something like 1.5 x 1 inch??

Nope But if the camera had a 64000 iso with the same noise levels things would be easier.

So some people are picking on me for what they seem to believe is my lack of ability to use a camera. Yes there really are differences between quickpics done at night handheld with a flash, and waiting for the sun to show up. ok, so here is the original http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/staxjack3.jpg and here is the same thing with daylight, f32 6 seconds exposure due to the lens, everything is out of focus. I tried, but this was the best picture i could get. http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/staxjack3f32.jpg and here is the same thing f16 3 seconds this is probably the best this lens can do. http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/staxjack3f16.jpg and here is the same thing f8 about 1.5 seconds http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/staxjack3f8.jpg Mounted on a 50 lb tripod, camera completely secured, RF remote trigger focus set once. Notice the picture shift with f-stop. That is NOT the camera moving. Of course none of these could be done handheld. So in the future you will continue to see quickpics due to me being a lazy fart until the thing is done, then the pictures will be perfect. Its the sound... stupid

What i really want is 2 n-channel and 2 p-channel parts matched and in one package. I have a couple of new designs just waiting for these things.