kevin gilmore

Seriously wrong form factor for that kind of thing. And it certainly is not cheap either. Now if i was going to turn it into a home theater controller, and do 8 channels of balanced... Then a 24 inch 16x9 panel would be about the right size.

What is the size of the psaudio... About 3.5 to 4 inches

So here is my comment on remote controls, after 20 years of trying to find the perfect one. The sony programmable, the pronto, the harmony, software for the palm, software for a few other things, and lately a crestron system. Every single one of them has serious design flaws. While i don't like a pile of remotes, i have yet to find a better alternative. I am still looking. None of the above seem to do as well a job on any particular device, than the original device does. Not sure why. The touch panel is also the display. The infrared control will be something with an absolutely standard and easily duplicatable control structure. If the touch panel software is written right, and it will be, the cpu that runs the thing goes to sleep unless there is something to do. Combined with latching relays that don't require power to keep activated. So all the magic crap is deactivated while you are listening to music. So i don't see how the cpu is going to cause any trouble.

A T2 case will be made from solid aluminum. Team overkill is in full swing. and a great line i used from college days. "No reason NOT to be excessive"

Correction... the screws that hold the heatsink brackets to the heatsinks are 3/8 long, not .5 long

So here is the current plan. I should have 8 sets of tops and bottoms done by next tuesday (then i'm out of material till i get some more) and the knobs by wednesday, then 8 sets will head off for polishing. When i get them back (3 to 4 weeks) i'll send half for anodizing because that is the batch size the guy wants, (another 10 days) and then 4 will be available. When he drops off the 4, i'll give him the next batch. After that there will be only one batch of 4 left. So who wants one of the next 4 chassis. And include which kind of stax jacks you want. PM's ok too.

From the man with 4 billet machined aluminum krell remotes. DEFINITELY... Now the at material cost is ok, but i still have to pay for machine time at $72 an hour starting sept 1. (up from $68 ..) Takes a while to machine titanium.

http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/kgsshvbomas.xlsx will get to the rest of it today. My server will go up and down a couple times today for updates...

actually i have changed to a diferent current source, but its an easy fix. I actually have 3 versions, not really sure which of the 3 will end up in production. I just got the fixed bom in an email, will post soon. Cleaning the saeco automatic expresso machine, and that is obviously more important... Since i'm addicted to coffee...

OTL fully direct coupled DHT. This is the way Lots and lots of power supplies.

I'm pretty sure its a 1.5 amp slow blow. (for 110 vac) But it might be a 2 amp. Too lazy to go and look. Definitely not more than 2 amps. updated schematics with a couple of resistors labeled as to power, and default of .5 watt added. I will have to look tomorrow on the fuse... Its never blown the fuse yet. Not even with 24 hours of CJ.

Another year older, and probably not any wiser.

A german company Lambda Physik (now owned by coherent) still builds lasers that way. With hydrogen thryatrons as the triggers. I don't like messing with those things they scare me. And i don't get scared very easily.

One major other thing i forgot is that a lot of gaot attacks are due to STRESS. So you need to reduce your STRESS level. Drinking booze definitely will make it worse. Lots and lots of water makes it better.

But then you have to go to stacked current sources.

pure water is 10**18 ohms per square. So a 6 foot long piece of tygon tubing (.5 od) filled with pure water ends up about 500 megohms. obviously tap water may be hundreds of times worse, so probably 10 megohms. Which is about 5ma at 50kv. So a grounding block at the end of the tubing makes the water safe. Still, you gotta pay attention when you are doing potentially stupid shit. 5ma can definitely kill.

You would need DI water or similar. NO calcium or magnesium... Its only 500 volts. Or just buy a bunch of heater resistors, make a string out of them and hang them someplace safe. I run my Xray's on DI water, and the anode is at 50kv. The sector mass spec i just dumped in the garbage can ran 30kv on the FAB tip on a garden hose (the chiller toasted itself) Please be careful.

well if you don't have gallons of fluorinert laying around. Obviously be REALLY careful doing this. alternatively some really good and pure low parifin oil like they put in the old xray tanks. The 60 volt supply is 80 ma total referenced to the -500 rail. The 12 volt supplies i doubt are more than 20ma each. The relay probably pulls more than that.

Not really true, lots of successful audio couples in the business. Krell (well until they had the company taken away) Wilson (the other wilson) Klipsch (until death do us part) Pass (still plugging and chugging) Manley (well that one did not end well) Borbeley (very successful for 26 years, just retired, shutting down the business at the end of this year) i'm sure there are others

NO knobs on the blowtorch. Just a touch panel and a remote.

NICE NICE NICE... The testpoint things are a GREAT idea. Whats the part number. People should do this, a better way not to get knocked across the room. Also fully plastic adjustment tool an absolute must.

well justin could ship them to me first. Might be kind of silly, but 4 oz of feet added to 39 lbs of chassis is probably cheaper than 2 packages. justin is less than half my age. And still in shape. And still single. Hey ladies... good catch here... solid future... (runs and hides )

No deadline on items like that. I would order material as necessary. And i was not paying attention on R50... Thought you were talking about the 500 volt supply. which is 490k.

this pic should do everything for you http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/t2power3.jpg R50 sets the output voltage. so you probably want to go to the standard value of 287k which should be a tad under 500 volts, but 300k would certainly work. All of the .6 inch resistors are supposed to be .5 watt. will update the schematic when i get home if i remember. pick load resistors out of your junk bin, and test at say 60% of max power. make sure they can handle the power, or dump in a plastic pail filled with water and stay away.... The 47 ohm resistors are just to ground the input filament. Would be the same as having a center tap on the transformer... In the middle you can see the bare wire connecting circuit board ground to the chassis nut close to it. Don't forget this.

no spare heatsinks. But high probability of a complete extra chassis set without a matching circuit board. Don't want to sell the heatsinks without the fronts/backs as i only have complete matched sets.