kevin gilmore

Yep, gave the board files to someone that is having a small run done...

There is still one complete chassis set with boards available.

With chu's permission i could do just about anything. Including all the library as html instead of php.

I would not be caught dead with a green checkered doily under my equipment! I stay away from the 440 volt panels... And i saw the new 14.4 KV panel that drives the transformer for my new building. Stay away. Stay very far away.

I've been testing 9 volt batteries the same way for over 40 years. Don't know where i learned that trick. Its not the size of the battery, Its the voltage divided by the resistance of the load.

Neither do i, but i fake it real good. I wish i had taken pictures of the high voltage flyback testing setup that zenith radio had 30 years ago. 6 inches of foam, 1 inch of plywood all off the floor, workbench and everything on the plywood, no grounds anywhere, all test gear isolated with massive isolation transformers rated for 75kv... I'm glad i never had to mess with that setup.

I don't see the forum part of it ever being active again due to serious security holes in the implementation of the database and php. Mostly the php.

The warnings about high voltage with significant amounts of energy storage are very real. This power supply has more storage at more voltage than a heart defibrillator. The story on the guy with the voltmeter is complete and utter bullshit. For one thing the simpson 260, of which i have 2 brand new in the box uses a total of 1 x 1.5 volt D cell. The older ones have 2 x 1.5 volt D cells. The maximum amount of current this meter can deliver on the low ohms range is about 1 ma. This is not enough to kill no matter how hard you try. On many of the DVM's however, there is a 9 volt battery, but once again these work on a current source principle, and even on the low ohms range the maximum current is 1 ma with a 1 volt maximum. 5 volt maximum on the diodes range. The best rule on this is insulated shoes, and one hand behind your back at all times. Safety glasses also a real good idea.

headwize and my other sites will be down starting november 26 thru the 28th or 29th due to power shutdown to wire in the power to my new building. Also down december 29 thru january 1 to finish the job.

Whats this with left channels of amplifiers screwed up... Ask Absorbine Sr. for details...

those are the 8 pin dip sockets. you need two for the amp board and 9 for the power supply board. 808-AG11D-ESL-LF Tyco Electronics / AMP IC & Component Sockets another version of the bom with additional part numbers http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/t2parts3.xls

use these for the fast diodes DSEP12-12B Ixys Rectifiers turns out the answer was actually in the kgsshv thread make absolutely sure you get the teflon tube sockets. unlikely that anything else will fit. use these for the octal sockets and i have extras of these if you want them, but ebay is cheaper CONNEX Socket 8-pin, Octal (KT88, 6550, EL34, etc.) and like this http://cgi.ebay.com/Machine-made-Teflon-tube-socket-8Pin-KT88-EL34-6SN7-/220565777104?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item335abeaad0 use these for the 9 pin sockets CONNEX Socket 9-pin, (12AX7, 12AU7, 12AT7, 6DJ8, etc.) i don't have any extras of these. http://cgi.ebay.com/Machine-made-Teflon-tube-socket-9Pin-12AX7-6922-6H3-/220565777143?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item335abeaaf7 will try to locate the other parts tomorrow. Resistance is Futile. See kgsshv thread.

Do to a complete miscommunication on my part, there will be one more chassis/board set available. Sorry al for my mistake. Scaring a high power lawyer, probably not a good thing to do At the rate andy is going, he will probably have his finished in about 2 weeks if he can find the rest of the parts.

I'm 56.6 years old and i need MOAR light. LOTS MOAR LIGHT. The reason is to get better focus, and that's only possible with the retina closed down. Even so, i now build stuff under a light magnifier, and use jewlers glasses. Its no joke.

If you put them a little higher than i did, and space them every 3 feet, then you still need 10 of them. But it will really light the bench up.

blubliss gets it...

various different color temperatures available warm white 2500k-3200k neutral white 4700-5700k home depot bulbs are at 2900k (i actually measured these) cfl's and most of the led bulbs are within about 1 watt of each other. the ledwaves bulbs are put together with screws and come apart easy and i will have no trouble repairing them. the cfl's in the basement as they die will be replaced with led bulbs. dimming the cfl's really shorten their lives. if i actually save money on electricity, thats just a bonus. The basement was a total of 1320 watts of incandescent now its about 100 watts. plus the difference due to the heat.

Someone dropped out so i have one extra chassis/board set available. Can probably ship end of next week. $1472 plus shipping.

yes of course there are switching supplies in them. Which is why the cfl's die because they have a big electrolytic cap, and boost the voltage to about 300 volts. The led's are way different, the good ones don't have any electrolytic caps of any kind and the latest nat semi chips do a great job of dimming all by riding the ac input power. i'm not doing this to save power or save money. this is clearly a money loosing proposition at this point. i don't believe the bulbs will last 30 years. i want them because of the color and intensity of the light, and bunches less heat.

See i injured my foot pretty good, stress fracture... Now if i had stayed off it for about 3 weeks then (like my doctor told me) i would not have injured it 3 more times in the following 2 weeks. Finally it got to the point that i just plain had to slow down, and be much more horizontal much more of the time. Great for listening to music. (with headphones of course). Lousy for just about everything else. (queue dr. wood) Anyway, most people would be happy with 2 or 3 of these. These really are great, and cheap, i have 2 in cans lighting the fireplace. EcoSmart PAR38 18-Watt (75W) LED Flood Light Bulb (E)* - ECS 38 WW FL 120 at The Home Depot but i went a bit overboard with 2 of these. Miletus PAR-38 Dimmable LED Light Bulb (20-Watt, High-Power Nichia LEDs) : PAR Series : Ultimate : LED Light Bulbs (warning this company is a bit hard to deal with and lies about delivery times like you would not believe, fake tracking numbers and all...) (neutral white/spot) I get about 6000 foot-lamberts at the work surface with the bulbs about 4 feet above the work area. I already broke the cheap home-depot fixture as it really was not designed for this amount of weight and after adjusting it, one of the two swivels broke. Should be fixed shortly. I'm going to have to put a dimmer on them, because this is more overkill than i need. In a few days i will probably start a thread on the lutron radio ra2 setup i'm installing, complete with about $1500 in led light bulbs. Combined with a few other items, this is slick on a stick (and yes i broke loose a copy of the software without having to spend 2 days in a class with a bunch of blue collar electricians)

Due to busting up my foot a while ago, i have had to slow down a bit. I want to get the next 5 x T2 chassis out the door first which should be about 2 more weeks. That will leave only 3 left. I have shipped the board files to someone that is going to make me a small run of prototype boards for a rational price. Someone else has the board files for the KGITSOJC so that is moving along too. I'm installing hid lighting over my workbench at home today to make it easier to build stuff.

More than happy to help with the expenses. Signature cocktail... Great idea. Should i bring a gallon or two of the 190 proof ultra high quality drinkable ethanol to spice things up? Or maybe a few bottles of 10**18 hplc water... Great stuff over ice. (at $60 a quart it had better be)

Production knobs are 1.5 inches in diameter, and 1.25 inches deep with a shaft that is 1 inch long. Single machined piece.

I have such a meter...

If you are truely insane you can always roll your own capacitors.. copper, or silver foil and teflon insulation. Tune for sound... Could take a while though. And a LOT of booze. Electrolytics really do dry up after 10 to 20 years. Whether or not they are used.