kevin gilmore

it plays the full spectrum of noise. i'm not really happy with the 530101b00150 heatsink, need to find something else.

just fine. I have a few of them installed in various places. A number of different companies make these things.

Absolutely true. But also a way for the vendor to get way more discussion on the various websites, and to sell lots of very overpriced tubes. Other than the soft start part which is deliberately designed into tube rectifiers, about $1 in a pair of silicon diodes is a much better idea. In many cases the soft start is not needed. Every single mcintosh tube amp built after about 1958 had silicon diodes. So did the marantz amps.

NoNoNoNoNoNo... Someone is on the right track

Like i said, its not done yet. resistor and zener to turn off the mute. And a better way to get the output off the board. etc... Plus you can tie all the mutes together and wire it to the protection board.

That has already been patented before in slightly different forms. The army had a version that did very low frequency at obscene volume levels, guaranteed to make you think you drank a few gallons of dulcolax. That version was not portable however.

Peter takacs, yep. sacd's. And dynamic range to kill for. $99 at elusive disc http://www.elusivedisc.com/prodinfo.asp?number=CMRSA3800

Yep, another mikhail fail too. So the datasheet says 40uf max after the rectifier. So mikhail put in a 40uf cap. Then paralleled it with a 200uf cap. OK marc, just for you on my next balanced dynahi, 2 x 5 pin xlr chassis mount connector. This actually makes sense.

That reminds me of a 300 watt shunt regulator power supply i built for a dynahi a while ago. Way to big. nothing prevents you from using the other boards, and then making angle brackets like the T2, thats way easier than precision drilling and tapping holes on the heatsink.

There are 2 rows of heatsinks, so no, you can't do it that way.

latest schematics http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/kgsshvproduction.pdf http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/kgsshvps8e.pdf

In this case, with a completely unregulated power supply, the different rectifier tubes actually cause a B+ change of almost 10 volts depending on tube. Part of this is because the filament of the rectifier tube is actually already about 10% low in the first place. So different tubes, and even different line voltages cause a change in the sound. Pretty sad really, but a desired consequence to sell $150 rectifier tubes. With a regulated power supply, stuff like this would not happen.

http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/jumperpos.jpg

I actually now do have a LF schematic. Not perfect yet, i'm spending my time elsewhere. I wanted to know what the extra tube did. Now i know. Eventually i will publish the schematic. And absolutely the same thing will happen on the LL.

if you are doing the 500 volt supply (unreg = 600 volts or more) then you don't have to populate C10,D12,R28,R27,D13,C15 and you install the jumper.

I must be missing something here. The headphones are 4 wires. Unless they are stax, which clearly does not count. 4 wires goes into a balanced or bridged amplifier, no ground is necessary. tie the 2 grounds together and the headphones go into an unbalanced 3 wire amp. So if you put a 4 wire connector on the end of a headphone cable, This has to be sufficient. If people start making balanced amplifiers with only one output connector, then it would have to be 5 pins, and if this is the case, then i would rather have the connector be 5 pins plus a shield. It does however get pretty goofy that the connector set at the end of the cable weighs way more than the rest of the cable.

the transistors do not have to be matched. the above bom i believe is correct the other one had the older power supply parts

I'm going to get some of the regular version (not the A part) and test, to be safe you should probably run only +/-475. This part at least for now is not discontinued.

Now he tells me after spending $150 on even more connectors (that i likely already had, but was to lazy to go and find them) i'm unaware of any balanced headphone amps with 5 pin xlr's. But i'm sure someone will show me one. You would make the mini adapter the same way you make the 1/4 inch adapter. Tie the 2 headphone negative terminals together.

I'll actually be making the balanced hd800 cables first. The wire is already a twisted pair of #22. ( 7 strands of #30) 1957 was evidently a great year for teflon cable. I think think that everyone should be making their cables with a 4 pin xlr, then make 4 pin xlr to 1/4 adapters, and 4 pin xlr to dual 3 pin xlr adapters.That covers everything. The only reason why i was going to make new cables is that the ones that came with birgirs set were absolute garbage. The new audeze cables are great, and you can already buy a version with the 4 pin xlr. $80 retail. Less if you know where to go. Birgir has to write up a 4 page review of the cable first. Then i'll design the cable to sound like the review.

So if Liquid Fire is what you get when you eat flaming mexican then what is Liquid Lightning?

you want the new board layouts which i have sent to you.

Works for me in the winter. In the summer, not so much.

There is a big difference between decent and stellar. I think one of the smaller and older firstwatt things would probably sound fantastic. 4 wire ONLY. One of these days, i may try it. 50 watt amplifier into 8 ohms is about 7 watts into 60 ohms which is still WAY too much for lcd2's. However it actually is about right for he6's

Birgirs were definitely rev1 or earlier, original cable and box, otherwise hard to tell. The originally supplied cable is mechanically horrible. Mine are rev2's and they certainly don't have a soundstage problem with the right amplifier. SR-009 still better at just about everything except low thunderous bass. I'll be making up some balanced cables soon from a roll of pure silver teflon from 1957. Practicing my weaving on cheap teflon first.