Emooze

Work up at 4, passed a PT test at 5, went to work, essentially got ordered by my Lt Col to take 2 comp days for working the past two weekends, still worked a 10+ hour day, came home to a 6-day weekend and cold beer. I'd say it's a good day.

My thanks are particularly high-power. A single thank from me may equate many thanks from a lesser individual. I do appreciate the recognition though, thank Steve.

As did I, thank!

Smashed my middle finger between a safe and a cement wall. Got a really nice bruise. Thankfully, no broken bones and now it's really easy to flip people off.

I'm just looking for alternatives if I can't get mine working or trash it beyond repair. I'm learning the finer art of trouble-shooting high voltage in the process so I'm trying to enjoy it.

Birgir, is anyone doing a run of the new PS boards in the short-term? I think I missed a trace on my PS that caused my issues last night. I'll probably have to run some 600V wire across the board to fix this. Will report back.

I have my own problems with accepting the DRM and cutting out the whole used game business. The always online thing doesn't bother me, a lot of PC games do this already. That being said, i got goosebumps during the Halo trailer and pre-ordered a One on Amazon.

So put in a new set of zeners, ohmed out the traces to make sure I didn't wreck something and everything checked out. Turned it on and something made a small zap. I got 750V on the output and about 320 across the zeners. I'm starting to think I should just populate a new board.

Railgun I've got about 200V across those zeners so it looks like that may be an issue...

It's been a few weeks since I got a chance to work on my PS. I added a second thermistor so there's one per primary winding now. With everything connected, I still blow 3A fast-fuses and I forgot to order more. What I did is just connect the positive rail, and it powers right up to 503V with a 2A fuse. Repeating the same process with the negative rail and it sort of hovers around 200V fluctuating about +/-10V. I swapped the LT1021s and I still get the same issue. Would it possibly be something in my diode chain for the 550V reference? To check that, I'm assuming I would measure the voltage across the whole thing.

I need to double check the dates because I want to show up in my CanJam 2010 shirt and be that guy.

I noticed a liquor store near me is holding a release party for some new canned beer and they are calling it "Canjam" I chuckled a little bit when I saw it.

I think you should change your name to "kgetlost" because that's what you should do.

How about you learn proper punctuation and capitalization first?

I would say my eyelids thank my pants for not allowing me to get too close. Though there were some man-wolves there and they were frisky. "From hoes to pros" was a panel name if I recall correctly.

The catcoon is an immortal amalgam of dark desires harbored by furrys everywhere. You cannot "take out" the catcoon. You can only live. That is all I hope to achieve.

Damn, missed that bit. Curses on the weekend leave rule. Tom's rig still sounded ridiculously good and I may or may not be salivating over it still. I would definitely say this was an awesome meet, got to meet some legends, hung out with old buddies and got my driving criticized back at me. Had I seen a man in a furry cat suit, this probably would have been too much for me. Big thanks to Trav for setting this up and not just that but going the extra mile. His effort clearly showed and it was a very enjoyable weekend. Edit: my gear impressions are: Todd's HE-500s sound awesome on my current rig and dammit, I want Qualias now. Not sure if I should laud or curse Purk for having a pair that fit me.

Color me interested. I was actually pondering a balanced dynamic amp last weekend. But when are we going to see some supercharged, off-board heatsink version? On a serious note, how critical is matching the transistors? And would an o22 be sufficient to power this?

Oh dang, yes I would be interested.

I took Friday off and will be driving up. I should arrive between early and mid afternoon if all goes well.

No, I'm not even in a chassis yet. This is on a wood table.

I've just got the one in series after the fuse and before it goes to both primary windings. It hadn't occurred to me to use one for each winding. I can try that, I just need to order more.

So I fixed the cap issue with some 600V wire to the 500k resistor in parallel. Not very pretty and apparently not the end. Now I'm blowing fuses just about every time I power-up so I must have fried something somewhere else without making it obvious what it was. Reading back through some posts, it's also possible that a 2A fast fuse just isn't enough even with one thermistor. I'm going to get some bigger fuses and see what happens. Update: the 3A fuses go out in spectacular fashion almost immediately. What's the best way to tell if I've blown something? Measure resistance across the various transistors?

I'm not sure, I thought I made sure to have enough space between board and caps but apparently not. I'm worried that the root cause is something else and magic smoke will appear when I fix this issue.

So based on my playing around with LTSpice and some measurements, one of the 680u caps has been shorted out. The voltages across the two 500k resistors aren't stable. I pulled up the one cap I suspected was gone and lo and behold, the top of the solder pad was gone and there was some thermal damage to the cap bottom. The issue I have now is, the top solder pad is gone and that's where the trace connects. Is there an easy fix to this or do I need a new board?