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Everything posted by swt61
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Wow Marc, that's very cool! Was it as big a PITA working in that small space as it looks like it would be? It's definitely a full case. Houston is going to be a fun meet for yours truly indeed! Oh, and I'll post 'em for ya...
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This was my inspiration, but of coarse mine will be taller, also my corner posts will be a bit more massive. Heck, the whole thing will be more massive in every way. This gives you a little better idea of where it's heading though. The resonance control is what I'm most interested in, but I'm not afraid of more mass either. Once I get this in place on my rack it's not going anywhere. Even if I have to rent a Genie lift to get it there. I think I may at the very least fill in the half moon cutout.
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Wait, you mean you can get these shipped to your door now? Oh man the intrawebz is awesome!
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"This product qualifies for Free Shipping. Click for details.FREE SHIPPING *Some restrictions apply. Click here for details. Reconditioned List Price: See Details $199.99 You Save: $185.00 Our Price: $14.99 Shipping: FREE" Sandisk Sansa m250 Digital Audio Player 2GB w/FM & Voice Recording - Recertified - M250 SDMX3-2048 - Buy.com I bought three. These will make great Christmas gifts.
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I will be waiting until after I've heard the table before making a final decision. It is pretty heavy now, and the Walnut will add another 4-5 Lbs. The 1/4" plywood would only be seen if you turn the table over, but as you suggest hopefully I won't need to bother. Actually I just had a thought...If I do use the shot fill, I'll use a rabbiting router bit to create a rabbit on each hole, then make round plugs from 1/4" ply. That will keep them flush with the table bottom, and more professional looking.
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Cutest baby pic ever!!!
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Have a great one!
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I haven't weighed her but I'd guess about 40 Lbs. w/platter. That would be awesome! My plan is to use a 2" Forstner bit to drill holes on the underside of the plinth, about an inch in from the edge, all the way around. Then use some 1/4" plywood to make plates to cover the holes, and screw them in place. This will be a massive TT.
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Thanks! The Black Walnut sides, legs and armboard should really set the Burled Maple off. That and the Tung oil. The drillpress is easy, it's the shop space to place it that's tough. It's a really fun project, and the rewards will be great, as it should be a real contender for analog bliss. As I've said before it wouldn't be possible at all without the very generous support of luvdunhill. That guy is a treasure trove of information. If I could learn to speak and comprehend genius I could really tap into his brain.
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Ah what the heck, here's some turntable bling bling minus the armboard.
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OK to avoid a ban here's what I've done thus far. The top of the plinth core with Burled Maple veneer, and holes for bearing and tonearm. Note the small holes on each side of the rectangular tonearm hole, those are burried T-nuts for armboard adjustment. The six alternating layers of 3/4" MDF and 3/4" Baltic Birch plywood. The hole for the inverted bearing. Closeup of the tonearm and armboard mounting holes. The armboard will have the standard round hole for the Riggle VTA bushing. The larger hole underneath the plinth for the washer and nut of the inverted bearing. The hole underneath the rectangular tonearm hole, for the tonearm wiring. This cutout probably has you wondering. It's actually a cutout for drilling the bearing hole. I only have a benchtop size drillpress and the depth is about 5", so this cutout was needed to allow me to get the plinth in far enough around the drillpress post to drill for the bearing. Note that the top piece of Baltic Birch doesn't have the cutout, and was hand drilled. This of coarse won't be seen unless you turn the table over. Bearing installed. This is the washer and nut from underneath. The washer is 2" in diameter, a stout bearing for sure. The installed bearing from the top. With platter in place. Carbon fiber record clamp. I'll try to get most of the Walnut trim work done this weekend. Once I get this and the armboard done I'll have pics of the tonearm setup.
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I've been playing around with vinyl rigs again for a while now. Some of you will remember that I was going to build a custom plinth for a Mitsubishi LT-30 a while back, but ended up just overlaying the plinth with Wenge. Well with my greatest resource at hand (luvdunhill) I opted for a completely custom table a while back. I purchased most of the parts earlier, but am just now finding a little free time to build the plinth. I went back and forth on the design several times, and almost ended up using some soapstone slabs. But in the end I decided on wood. Specifically the core of the plinth will be alternating layers of 3/4" MDF and Baltic Birch plywood. 6 layers to be exact, for a total of 4.5" for the core. That ought to supply some mass. Later I'll drill the core for some Micro-Bearing fill. Audio Points - 1.5AP-1C.5 Wide Body Threaded The 14' x 20" core will be topped with Burled Maple veneer, and wrapped on all four sides with 3/4" Black Walnut. I'll mill a nice slight arch on the bottom of the Walnut sides, and the four corners will be 2" square Black Walnut posts w/adjustable cone feet at the bottom. This plinth will get a Tung oil finish, most likely 5 coats. There will be a Black Walnut armboard to raise the tonearm to the desired height, and it will be adjustable in and out about 3/8" for optimum spacing between the spindle and tonearm pivot. The tonearm is a Rega RB300 w/Incognito wiring and Pete Riggle's weight and VTA adjuster. The platter is a VPI Aries Black Knight Black Acrylic platter about 2" thick. The bearing is the VPI Aries inverted bearing, and it's a beast. I also picked up a Black Diamond Carbon Fiber threaded record clamp. Marc has been the driving force behind this project, helping me secure the awesome Maxon motor, custom motor pod, custom speed controller (battery powered) which he built, as well as the Pass Pearl phono stage he's finishing up. I will most likely use a surgical silk thread belt for the time being until I decide whether I like the tape drive option better. The plan is to run a ZYX Bloom cartridge, but for now I will have to get by with a Grado prestige that I already own. Today I started the plinth work, and was able to get all the necessary holes measured and drilled, the 6 layers cut and glued together, and finally the Burled Maple veneer glued up. I probably won't get a chance to get back to it until the weekend, but I'll get some pics of where I'm at thus far posted later tonight (hopefully). And this weekend will start the Walnut trim pieces and armboard. I need to get this finished up for this months Houston meet on the 25th, so this will go faster than my previous TT projects. Stay tuned.
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The stands are about 14" tall. Your pair of W5000's most likely just happen to be of a darker piece of Macassar Ebony. I've seen a huge variance in W5000s, which doesn't surprise me at all, because I've also encountered huge variances in the Macassar Ebony I've used over the years. Also remember that this stand has the camera flash enhancing the grain. It's a bit darker in person.
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Yeah what he said.
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Oh yeah, no problem. That angle makes them look bulkier than they are. They taper down nicely. I had some AT's on hand to use to test the fit.
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Thanks, The W-5000 stand is Macassar Ebony, which is what the headphone cups are made from. It's a satin finish to match the headphones. I used a Japanese Cherry for the W11-JPN stand, and stained it with a Merlot stain followed by a Burgundy toner. It's a gloss finish, as is the W11-JPN.
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I'm sure you'll be very happy with it. Nice amp.
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Hey I just finished a couple of stands for some AT's that I thought were kind of interesting. The client wanted a similar shape to AT's own stand design, but he wanted colors to match his headphones (W11-JPN & W-5000). I made them kind of tall, because I want the wooden headphone cups to sit in the middle of the Curly Maple pillar pieces. That should make the headphones pop off of the lighter Maple. My flash makes the W11-JPN stand look kind of Pinkish, but it's really a Brownish/Burgundy, and a very close match to that headphone.
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That's about what I paid for my slightly used Opera Audio Consonance A-120 Linear. I love this integrated!
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Hey soloz, What are the spikes on your stand? Are those he infamous #1 philips bits?
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Ah, OK I am familiar with that. It seems to kind of go against the whole motor isolation idea though. Wouldn't the motor vibration be carried into the platter with that system?
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I had noticed that the Galibier tables used some different looking tape belts, but couldn't find anything about them on their site. I guess I haven't seen the new VPI yet. I like the silk, but wanted to try out some different tapes.
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Thanks!
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Does anyone know of a source for tape drive belts? I'm curious as to what's out there.