voodoochile

That looks like it would run pretty smooth; have you modeled it? I like it.

I used to use Avia's calibration disc, which does help- but HCFR works much better. AVS forums has plenty of info on it. I have a Sammy A630 dialed in very tightly with HCFR. Also, AVS has a number of threads showing "average" setting of those who have calibrated, which would probably get you a lot closer than out of the box, without going through calibration. Very nice screen for the price, you have to spend a lot more to do better IMO.

That's an awesome endorsement! Sounds about right, too.

Yikes... I've have a built-in headphone stand all along, but not with bark on it.

That sounds great. Ebony would go very well with the dark top plate and the medium base material. I'll see if it's miller time at mr roboto's.

Actually that would be good. It could serve as a kickstand while working under the hood.

That blows the doors off absolut knox blox.

Ebony is the right color, and does turn well... excellent! Nate- I need to email you anyway about a bunch of other stuff, too.

Thanks Ari! I should try to clarify though- it's not a separate PSU for the gain, just a separate filter stage. If you take two of the original Mapletree PSUs after the first filter cap, and put one of them on each of the output legs of Ciuffoli's PSU, it's pretty close to what I have. I did not use a Graetz bridge this time as Ciuffoli does, just a normal FW setup with an 80 rectifier. My other amp does have the Graetz bridge, using two hexfreds and a 12X4 rectifier. Ciuffoli's PSU: [ATTACH=CONFIG]3094[/ATTACH] The separate chokes on each channel do seem to work quite well. My output stage would be tagged on at the terminus of the above schematic, then there is another r/c filter composed of the poly in oil caps on each channel before tagging on the input stage. It's very quiet, but is still very fast, without excessive overshoot or ringing on transients. The output is pretty heavily biased, too. Nate- a 1.25d knob will fit okay, it's just that I didn't like the knob I had on hand in that size- it was too short for good vertical use I think. The Kilo is a good height, but a little too skinny, not to mention odd looking. The fluted bakelite communications knob that Lloyd uses on his amps looks very good on it, but feels weird when used vertically. I think an ideal size would be about 1.125d x .65 tall, or something along that line.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]3090[/ATTACH] I've been looking for a place to store this.

Want, yes; want to pay, no.

The kilo knob is .925", and is a touch small. I don't recall the diameter of the knurly knob, but probably 1.25 to 1.33". The clearance between your fingers and the adjacent plugs is a little too small when it's on there.

I agree completely! The only others I had in black were your typical knurled thang, which was a little too large in diameter for the layout, and then I have the hafler knobs, which look great, but did not quite cover the peg for the pot. I should have just snipped off the peg like I usually do. So, you have something in mind? This amp is a bit different for me, having everything on the top plate. I think I would have spaced the inputs and output a bit more from the pot if I did it over, which would give more room for the knob. But I do like the directness of the wiring path.

No kidding... whatever helps you sleep at night! Works for me...

Thanks guys! It's pretty dark in appearance as compared to the other amp, it being stainless and birch. This one has a graphite-like hammered paint on the top, and I still don't know what the wood is for certain, but it's plenty dark. Both this and the stainless amp have just plain watco on them, nothing else. It sounds very nice to me, but I'm going to need help comparing between the two, so I'm reserving any other comments. I am going to put together a little a/b box with a toggle switch that I can plug one pair of cans into and flip back and forth between two headphone jacks, which should help some. I like them both a lot, but there are differences between them.