bjarnetv

i was referring to the spring drive reviewed in the link i posted: http://www.timelesswatchexchange.com/timelessluxwatches/reviews/grand-seiko-sbge005-spring-drive-review the two automatics were just included because they would have been my pick

is it this one? http://www.timelesswatchexchange.com/timelessluxwatches/reviews/grand-seiko-sbge005-spring-drive-review looks nice, though i think i prefer the diver. when it comes to GS GMT's i really like the styling of the various hi-beat and automatic variants, though i can understand the allure of spring drive

As a GS owner i recommend one, but go fondle them in a store first if you have the chance, as they look pretty different IRL compared to the bad official photos. It's not unusual for people to walk away with a completely different model after handling them. I used to be more of a toolwatch guy and lusted for the 031, but ended up with one of their most conservative designs (SBGH001) and haven't regretted it, not even after covering it with scratches

just a bunch of photos from my random photo folder.

Went to a record trade fair this morning, and found lots of nice records. An old lady was selling some jazz records, and i started looking through a box of Karin Krog releases, and she said she would sign it if i bough it... Turns out the old lady was Karin Krog! Ended up buying three of her records after she told me a bit about them. How could i resist?

Yeah, the danish radio EMT will have to wait until i am a seriously successful, up and coming businessman. Acquiring these two decks in such a short interval was painful enough, although both were quite reasonable all things considered I think i'll try to keep this sp-10 in the broadcast plinth, as they are to rare to sacrifice in the hunt for a slight performance boost, and i like the wabi sabi look.

i guess the 57 must be slightly more durable then the 63 then, as they love delaminating and arcing! i still have my pair in the attic, but i'm sick of refurbishing the panels, so they will probably stay up there for a few more years.

yeah, now i need a DR deck to complete the trifecta i haven't really figured out which tables they used, but it was probably som kind of EMT. Better start saving! And did they really use esl57 as monitors? That sounds like a pain for the maintenance guys

When does an innocent interest transcend the limits of the hobby and warp Into a... dark hobby? I bought a new headphone amp today... it came with a turntable attached... Lots of patina, but has been constantly serviced and maintained by SR, so it works fine. built in april 1979 apparently arm is an EPA-100p the more robust brother of the EPA-100, with regular bearings instead of sapphire, external armlift and no silicone damper in the counterweight. still got the titanium nitride armtube though. powersupply is slightly larger then the regular sp10 supply, to power the control unit, riia and speaker. the top plate is not attached to the bottom, but rests on adjustable feet. the spindle on the professional version is slightly thinner then regular, to allow manual centering of the record if the hole is not centered. the thin part of the weight has an extrusion that fills out the gap if the hole is correct, but if you want to manually center it, you just flip it around and use the fat side. So, did i really need another broadcast deck? No. But it used to belong to SR (Swedish radio) so now i have one Norwegian, and one Swedish deck Besides, its really cool, and probably better then the Norwegian one. I need a headshell before i can try it out, but i found and ordered an original headshell on ebay, so hopefully i'll have it up and playing soon.

I guess this article kind of explains it: https://ammonite-audio.co.uk/tonearm-and-cartridge-alignment/ The Stevenson alignment is supposed to have slightly higher average tracing distortion, but less on the inner part of the record. I'm not sure why, but to my ears i am getting overall less distortion when i set the cart up with the Stevenson null points.

Anyone else have any strong preferences between alignments? I've always preferred stevenson, but i decided to give Baerwald a second chance. well, after about a week i've had enough. no matter how precise i tweak it, there is just too much distortion! went back to Stevenson, and everything is great again.

nah, just the regular ergo 2 dynamic version. They sound ok, but not high end. Haven't gotten rid of them due to their high novelty value The sigmas were lent to a former friend, who never gave them back and refused to pay for them. i still miss them...

I agree, which is kind of sad seeing how optimistic i was for the hobby when audeze started developing their first headphone, and everyone was hopping on the orthodynamic hype train. There's still plenty of cheap orthos on ebay, but i guess part of the fun was actually unearthing and documenting all the obscure and forgotten phones nobody knew anything about, like PMB's, MB Quart's and weird Amfiton's. Not to mention putting SFI tweeters in all kinds of ugly donor-phones, hand-sewing custom ear pads and trading felt across the world with other users (like kabeer, ludoo, smeggy and ericj.) Those really were fun times.

as an average scandinavian, the first image feels really innocent, and reminds me of my own childhood, when everyone tried to look adult by smoking, hidden behind the school tribune (at age 12).

I read them a couple of years ago and liked them a lot. Liked 1# and 2# the best though. 3# was just ok.

Got it up and running with a new belt, some fresh oil and quick contact-cleaning. Tried the built in riia, but it sounded quite lean and probably needs some components replaced to play as it should, so i rewired it straight from the tonearm to the Reflex M. Since i was going to try the built in circuits, i decided to try out the DL160 first, and surprisingly, it plays better then my old pd272 with the AT33ptg/II just really tight and effortless sounding, and it handles bass heavy music like GoGo Penguin really well without muddying things up. It does still sound like a dl160 though, so it lacks the giant soundstage and smoothness of the AT33, so i'm really looking forward to seeing how that sounds!

NO! I don't want the truth Birgir, not the truuuhuhuhuuuth... (crying) I do enjoy the reflex M, but the biggest upgrade came from adding the AT33 and elevator EXP, so that might color my impression of it. (sounds great!) On the plus side, the reflex M is easily sellable if this is better, and if not, i guess its time to start buying lampizator gear to suit my tin ears.

a bit newer maybe, but i've still got my old fostex T30 studio phones to casually drape over the table during photoshoots.

i've got a couple of feet of double shielded monarch NEO-OFC cables left over from other projects (70 pF/m), so i'll probably just use that, and worry about trying out the built in riia later. new belt and cartridge clips are in the mail, and as far as i can see, all the rubber bits look intact and soft. the top part (where the turntable is mounted) is isolated from the bottom case by a layer of foam to stop vibrations from transmitting, so i will need to replace that, as it has turned to dust over the years. also, turns out iso 32 hydraulic oil is pretty similar to the original sony oil for the bearing, which was lucky, as i had just bough some to refill my garage jack. will probably give all the various speed adjustment pots a round of CRC electronic cleaner too, just to make sure they are clean.

yeah, a proper refurb is probably needed for achieving the original wow and flutter specs, though i hope it runs well enough for me to try out for a while before picking it a part. luckily someone was nice enough to email me some (bad) photos of the original schematics and technical documents, so if anything goes wrong it should be fixable. also, here is a picture of the unusual anti-skate, hidden on top of the arm.

i love the hand made build quality of cool solution on old gear like this. properly laid out, easily serviced, and build to last. just remove some thumbscrews and pull out whatever you need. everything with oversized metal connectors and plugs. just look at this cool little pulley for the arm-lift next to that huge slab of lead or whatever that is. if you press the spring loaded arm-lift knob it functions as a button for something! (probably a muting circuit) so cool, and it has a real satisfying click! everything is just so satisfying to use. loud clicks, strange relay noises, lots of pilot lights and smoothy sliding sliders. to be totally serious though, at over 50 years old, odds are there might be some issues with old caps and such, but hopefully it wont be too much work getting it up and running again (reliably)

i'm pretty pleased with the sound of my vinyl rig at the moment, but that didn't stop me from picking up this oddball on new years eve. it's an old NRK broadcast turntable from the late 60s (probably), based on a Sony TTS-3000a it's got a pretty interesting arm, made for NRK at the Kongsberg weapons factory. i guess the reason they went for a highly expensive custom arm, was that all the adjustments are hidden and locked down with unbraco screws, making them fool proof and durable in a studio setting. you need a slotted screwdriver to adjust the counterweight, and a tiny unbraco key to set the torsion spring anti skate on top. no accidental bumping will ever upset the settings. Still haven't got it up and running, as i need a new belt and cartridge clips, but i'm looking forward to seing how it performs. The inbuilt riia is supposedly pretty serious, so i'm also looking forward to compare it with the graham slee reflex M. i need to make some kind of internal rca junction box though, so i can bypass it, or insert the elevator EXP for MC cart usage.

just cover it with some aluminum foil (old esl63 refurb trick)

this is great mission accomplished! in all seriousness though, i you could try a hexagonal wooden cabinet for the tube, similar to this

visually it looks great. shame about the price and brand though seems it has the motor and platter from the Classic and the tonearm from a Player.