Les_Garten

I don't think it needs to be sent back if I can seal it. On the KGSS boards, what is the arc potential at the outputs? It would have to jump 1.40 mm from the R- output Pad. I thought it was about 3mm but it's closer than that. I mic'd it at 1.40mm.

My problem is the opposite. The missing mask exposes the ground plane. I'm trying to seal it up. It's within about 3mm of an output pad on an amp board. Seems my options are to ignore and be careful around it, or try to seal it with something resistant to high temp. Hmmm, what is the voltage carrying capability and resistance of a paper clip. Can't honestly say that solution hasn't crossed my mind n the past. I have a call into Loktite to see if they have a high temp epoxy that is reasonably priced.

There are some Solder mask epoxies, but the price is high. Fingernail polish doesn't seem like it would resist temp very well?

I just got a PCB that has a void in the solder mask on top of the board. It is not a scratch, the mask is kinda piled up around the void. It looks like a contaminant may have kept the mask off that area. There are some epoxies online to fix this. I was wondering if you guys know of something locally obtainable to fix this?

Thanx!

How important is it for the 389's to be matched side to side? Is it possible to solder in the LSK389 to fit that footprint?

I got my Boards this week, very pretty! I sent Dan an email about the 2SK389 subs. If you had the choice of unmatched 2SK389s or matched 2SK170s, you would do the 170s, correct?

Thanx for that Link, I had read it a long time ago but not caught onto the significance. Answers a question for me though.

What amp are you using for your new Canz? Congrats by the way!

Here's some more, but I'm looking for something like the STAX knobs, maybe a little smaller. Amazon.com: Dual Concentric Knob: Musical Instruments

Thought so, if you run across a Knob Cache, turn me on to it. Thanx!

I just found this one. Amazon.com: Dual Concentric Knob Black Wide: Musical Instruments Ugly, but at least I know it exists! I did a search for Dual Concentric Knob and found it. I'm hoping to find a treasure trove of styles!

Hmm, that would be one way to do it. The shafts are 5mm and 8mm. So your average 6mm Vol knob won't work. I suppose you could fuse together and DRILL Baby DRILL! But I would like to find the proper knob. I'm not sure what that knob does but it is 6mm shaft size so it's not meant for these POTs. I'm thinking that since the POTs exist, the knobs have to also. This looks like the POT that would be on the STAX amps where you have the two channels on that Balance knob.

Does anybody know where to get knobs for the bottom 2 POTS with the dual concentric turning shafts? ALPS Blue Velvet, Bourns Potentiometer and more......

Good to know I'm going in the right direction! Did you sell your 303s?

Hi B22 is setup as a speaker amp.

The Pamona and the ProbeMaster. Both of those sets are real nice. Thanx for the info.

Thanx!

Hi, Do you have a link to the Leads you are referring to here? I'm looking and have some leads similar to what you describe, but my leads are pretty cheap and I have no idea what Voltage they are rated for.

Actually I had never looked close enough to appreciate the holes in the BHSE before. I think if Kevin trys to get holes into his PCB, I'll have to get a bigger desk! Because the board will have to go up 25% in size to accomodate holes!

Heh, yeah Rapid Charge Break in! Silver lining in every cloud. Thanx for the feedback!

Yeah no kidding! But now I wonder about letting that stuff break in unattended for weeks straight like I'm inclined to do. The chance of a failure like that is small, but when that chance nails ya, wheee!

Hmmm, I can see that getting Ugly quick! I see what you mean there. I think I had a slight Heart Arrhythmia when I read that... I'm sensing Rain falling on a parade.

Hey Thanx! This helped a lot Interesting reading! Helped explain it a lot more than me just trying to figure out what he's doing here. Have you seen this method used much? If this were so good, why isn't it the predominant way of wiring POTs?

I have a Vol Pot from Audio-GD(Kingwa). They use a different way of wiring their Vol Controllers than I've seen and I wanted to hear what you guys think about the method both advantages and disadvantages. Instead of entering the POT on the input and exiting the Signal on the output after passing thru the POT, he uses the POT as a drain of least resistance it looks to me. The INPUT from the SOURCE and the OUTPUT to the Amp are on the same solder point. The POT works backwards. As you turn the knob clockwise, the Impedance increases. The Impedance is around 1 ohm when the knob is all the way counter-clockwise. The way I intepret his design is that the signal hits the solder pad on the POT and makes it's path choice based on least resistance. If the POT is Full CCW, the pad is shorted to ground for practical purposes and the Signal goes to ground. If the knob is turned CW, the impedance goes up and some of the signal starts to flow against the input impedance of the amp and the Vol is increased. At least this is how I think this works, correct me where needed. He does this with his relay based stepped attenuators as well. Below is a drawing of the path as well as two PIX of a POT he sent me with the wiring of the board the POT is mounted to. I posted Links to the PIX because they are large. What do you guys think of this approach? He says he does this because the POT is not in the signal path so he gets better SQ. The only drawback being on some gear maybe not getting full attenuation of volume when the knob is full CCW. This idea looks like it has a lot of merit, has it been done by any of you guys or anyone else that you know? If you recognize the POT, that would be helpful also. http://www.turbonet.biz/misc/pot/AAA_1934.JPG http://www.turbonet.biz/misc/pot/AAA_1935.JPG Thanx!