Nebby

Actually, patience is not my strong suit. I cope by working on multiple projects at once, so I can distract myself from frustrations by being productive on something else. It's worked well for me so far No turntable in the near future, I'm mostly satisfied with cd's and digitial audio...maybe in the distant future? AlanY: Totally forgot about the MDF expanding from the moisture, I'll definitely watch out for that on the test.

Tanjoubi omedetou gozaimasu!

So what's the cool place to crash at? I think I've managed to get myself a ride to Cali!

You assume correctly sir, I'm using a Jasper circle jig. I was somewhat worried about the metric -> imperial conversion until I found their calculator on their site. Unfortunately the tweeter cutout will be .5 mm larger than the tweeter, but I'm hoping that some generous primer and paint will close that gap. I was hoping to test that with this test baffle, but completely fubar'd it this time. The method you describe does make sense, I'll give it a try on my next test. Thanks for the tips, they're much appreciated!

Did trial run of the baffle cuts today, first I tried to do the tweeter: As you can see, it didn't work out too well. The stopper on the router got loose halfway and as I went the router went deeper and deeper until at one point it just went right thru the piece. After getting a feel for how tight was "properly" tight, I went on to go for the woofer. It turned out a bit better this time, although I went too deep and the cutout got loose when I went to complete the circle. Next time I'm going to make sure to leave a tiny bit left over so the piece is intact, then route that out on the other side. After placing the woofer in, the frame was acceptably flush with the baffle. It's difficult to see, but the frame has a bevel to it, so getting a proper measurement of the thickness was a bit difficult. I went with what the specs gave me and it ended up alright IMHO. Lessons learned: 1) Check router stopper is properly tightened, then check again. 2) When doing the cutout, leave a bit of wood so the piece doesn't go loose at the end. 3) Working with measurements given in metric is a genuine PITA when all your equipment are in imperial units.

Definitely hear you on the patience part, on my first project (the sub) I ran into multiple paint compatibility issues and ended up basically putting over 20 coats on before I could move on to final buffing/finishing. Electronics-wise I'm also still learning, but from my limited experience the same need for patience applies there too. I've learned the hard way if you hurry things more stuff eventually breaks Those cups are very nice, quite a good finish too!

After getting the counterpoints hooked up and fixing a very annoying hum grounding issue, I'm listening to music...and it's goood. Can't wait to try out the vref mod, as soon as the parts come in.

luvdunhill: For the Kapton, I would use the .001" thick stuff. Will definitely need TIM for both sides, since it does not conform to the surface like a sil pad does. One idea I've had is to directly mount the device to a copper heat-spreader with goop, then place the insulator between the junction of the heat-spreader and heatsink. With a larger surface area, the impact of the lower performance would decrease. The issue with this would be the added capacitance from the heat-spreader, which I'll need to find out if it would be an issue. I also plan on using a clamping bar to mount the device, using a torque driver to make sure the force applied is evenly distributed. From what I've read clamping force makes a decent bit of difference in performance. I'm still researching, so these are all just ideas at this point What's your preferred thermal interface material and/or insulator material? Speaking of CanJam, I might just be able to make it out there. Anyone need something (inexpensive) from Japan?

What exotic isolator materials have you tried out? I was looking at using thin kapton film in conjunction with a heat spreader. Also, what kind of test rig have you used for your measurements? I would like to do some testing to verify my ideas.

GB here: diyAudio Forums - Milled/Drilled/Tapped Conrad Heatsinks v2 + Flat packs - Page 1 He's selling last leftovers from his last GB here: diyAudio Forums - Conrad drilled/milled/tapped heat sinks for sale - Page 1 5 heatsinks avail, $120 shipped in the US for a pair. The heatsinks are definitely good for a F5, as long as you're reasonable with the bias.

Good heads up, I didn't realize he was doing another GB that included the panels. Definitely going to pickup some of the panels.

Wasn't last thing I bought, but showed up today:

I also like PowerCons and SpeakOns; in fact, I'm thinking of possibly using the SpeakOn connectors for an external crossover -> speaker connection

Now you get to experience the joys of electronics troubleshooting and replacing blown parts!

Oh, did I say that out loud?

Boards done!

I knew that one was going to happen as soon as I clicked post. Didn't edit though, so I guess I like the pain

Can't seem to find the datasheet on their site, send them an email. They were very quick to answer what my transformer was when I found one in my closet

mmm...dynafet! Aren't those just a myth?

I have a spare sub board somewhere, I'll go try to find it.

I like to test out my options before making a decision I did learn a very important lesson yesterday on my test piece: tape the edges of the veneer before ironing the perpendicular piece. If glue gets on the veneer it's game over

No updates for a while since I've been a bit busy lately. But this just came in yesterday: Japanese veneer saw - works great.

I did some finish testing a few days ago and as much as I tried to like poly....I don't I looks good, but working with it and the feel that it has just doesn't do it for me. I think I'm going to go back to lacquer. How's your finishing experience going smeggy?

I do believe that you can get DSD out of a denon 1920, or a model something like that. Oppo-wise I don't remember any way to get DSD out.

I must finish building my counterpoints so I can hear how the current one sounds first before contemplating the new one. Must....resist...