Nebby

Happy Birthday!

Home depot has a CFL recycling program, though I think they only take the small lightbulb sized ones. You might be able to find a recycling program near you by using epa's recycling center listing: Mercury-Containing Light Bulb (Lamp) Collection and Recycling Programs Where You Live | Universal Waste | US EPA

Right

ahhh. The audiophile ones must have a fancy resistor stuck inside a rca adapter casing?

nevermind, they're only 0.025ohm

Ah, those doodads! Bybee's are impressively expensive....though they're only 0.25ohm iirc.

Does a TKD attenuator count as audiophile grade?

Thanks for mentioning the voltage divider, it makes a lot more sense now. I will have to give that a try myself.

Wouldn't that bring the effective attenuation total to 100k which is the stock attenuator? I think I might swap my 100k for a 250k.

I see now, when you referred to the "WE connection" I was looking desperately for something labeled "WE" in the schematic. When I didn't find anything, I got confused Thanks!

Pardon my lack of knowledge, but what exactly would I need to jumper assuming I'm running the increased CCS current? I just want to make sure I don't make a mistake and blow things up.

On a purely semantic level, how can you call a design that uses only one type of device complementary? I like your idea, luvdunhill; it makes more sense I think.

Tough-Dog refers to a problem that's difficult to fix.

You could probably open up the speakers and clone the crossovers for the surrounds, but unless your center channel is at the same height as your fronts and also happens to sit vertically, it'll definitely be more difficult to design a matching center, assuming that the speaker was tuned as front/monitor speakers. You can, of course ask if the guy had designed a center channel and if he did, buy the crossover only I'm personally avoiding a dive into full speaker design simply due to the massive time and effort involved in the design/simulate/test/repeat process of crossover/speaker design. Hurray for people that share their tested and proven designs!

Yea, the price is good esp considering the labor involved and the pictures of the speaker look good as well. Do let us know how it sounds when you get them

I'm assuming you're curious about the actual drivers used? I looked them up since the flanges and drivers looked familiar. Here are my semi-educated guesses: HiVi M8N 8" Aluminum/Magnesium woofer: $42 HiVi M8N 8" Aluminum/Magnesium Woofer | Parts-Express.com Not sure about the tweet, but the flange looks right: HiVi RT1C-A: $37 https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=45_229_236&products_id=1486 Dayton RS52AN-8 2" Dome Midrange $41 Dayton RS52AN-8 2" Dome Midrange | Parts-Express.com

I see, sounds reasonable enough Beefy: I would've preferred them mounted to the plate as well, but that's just not possible with their size.

The cap leads are going to be heat-shrinked as soon as I order some decent barrel connectors, the ones I'm using are from radio shack and will break loose and run if you even look at them wrong.

Very carefully? I'll post a pic once the tubes and amp cool down.

ERSE - 200.0μF 250v PulseX are what I used. I haven't tried them in any other gear, mostly went off of cetool's recommendation; is 500 the de facto burn-in time for caps?

Yes according to amb's site, the b24 is 170W into 8ohm while the b22 does 50W into 8ohm balanced bridged. Amb has also listed the parts changes required for changing the beta24 for pure class A, with a target output power of 30W into 8ohm. Not sure what the max output is for either the b24 or b22 while staying in class A, I think they're hidden in the long headwize threads.

Speedball and the Erse caps were installed yesterday; the sound is quite enjoyable I had an issue with the right channel disappearing on me with the 5998, but it came back after leaving the amp on overnight. Odd things, these tubes.

I'm rather impressed with the 800 cable; blasphemy I know, but I think in build quality alone it's better than some of the aftermarket cables out there.

But it's easy to tell the cables apart by weight alone, you'd have to weigh down the stock cable to feel the same as the audiophile cable

That statement normally annoys me, but it's just so apt this time around.