nikongod

Can-jam, you say. Not associated with RMAF you say? Anyone want to split a room?

Does anyone remember the o-o-orfeius?

The guy (gal) wearing the 009mk3rev4batch3 is smiling, where the guy wearing 009mk3rev4batch2 is not. Very easy visual indicator.

TPA says output impedance is constant 750ohm. Its pretty neat that they did it with only passives in the signal path, but there are equally good cheaper things to build into an amp.

Physics, it works.

The JT attenuator has a constant output impedance to make it work better as a passive preamp with cables longer than 6" . This is why the input impedance is "who knows." It is still kind of pointless here. There are Chinese alternatives with similar step size, and cheaper overall cost - just not constant output impedance that you dont need....

It was either Dana or Gregory. I think Dana. I have an older Gregory Lassen pack (similar to the Baltoro 65) that I really like, but was always curious if Dana was worth it. Ultimately the only thing that *really* matters is how they fit you. If its not comfy, you wont use it enough to wear it out If it does fit you well, you will probably buy a something slightly different to do something slightly different slightly better before you wear it out anyways, because head-case.

As long as the amp stays stable (dyna{whatever} are very stable) yes, drop some gain and spin the knob higher

Assuming (there I go...) that the TAPER of the pot is the same, there should be no change in where the knob sits with a 10K, 25K, 50K, or any other pot. Generally accepted best practice is to use the lowest impedance pot that your source can drive. If your source cant drive 10Kohms (or even less) cleanly & with full bandwidth smash it up with a hammer* and buy something else. *you could also just sell it, I guess.

Hello All. So, I bought the domain name (go me!) and thats cool. In the DIY spirit, I want to learn CSS, and write as much of the code for that as possible - even if right now all I am doing is cobbling together other people's building blocks. I'm cool with that. My problem is that I cant figure out how to get stuff to stop sitting on top of eachother. Like the title bar keeps sitting on top of the main text which depending on my luck overlaps the lefthand navigation. FUUUUUUCK. I uploaded some generic files for a mock website, and the CSS I have been using (as TXT) if anyone could look at them and point out where I messed up I would appreciate it. https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B3oIxZRutUV8NDJMNTlOMUs4dzQ&usp=sharing What I am looking for: I want a linky bar on the top of all pages. Just a few links to various pages I own (DIY, photography, home?) Is it possible to integrate a fixed title into this? How!? On the home page I would like a big fat title, although this can be integrated in the link bar, I guess. Once someone clicks through to DIY or photography I want left-hand navigation within those things. In DIY I want to link to other DIY projects without going back to the main DIY page, in photos to other albums. I think I know how to do this (which just means I am too wrong to know how bad I failed) but you know. Any help is mucho appreciated. Then I want the body text.

I just had an idea for a phase-plug made out of an actual dagger, and speaker screws made out of those little spikes punk-rockers put on their jackets...

Its that crappy music you kids listen to.... I actually had someone tell me that. I assume you mean the bit at the ~2o'clock position - I would not worry. That piece is only there to allow the MFR to "reverse mount" the speaker for certain applications. See image below. Any chance something brushed up against the speaker and moved that? I would be more worried about making sure it does not happen again for fear of what it could do to exposed tweeters.

You should (generally) use the lowest setting possible. It is good practice to start out on the higher voltage settings so you don't blow up meters without protection (maybe better to blow them up, but lets act like its not), but back down to the right (lower) range as you get things dialed in.

I'm thinking of going to this, to hang out with everyone. Is anyone else here going whose name isnt on the list at head-fi? Are there any good photo-spots in Stamford, in November? If I go I will be bringing my bike, so that should be fun.

Happy Birthday luvdunhill

They look like Ultrasones. Which reminds me, I once combined a set of Ultrasone HFI-780 with SFI ortho drivers.

May not be correct, but these? The whole family: http://www.mcmaster.com/#sheet-metal-bushings/=u9znkr 1/4" hole: http://www.mcmaster.com/#8509a18/=u9zn6p

Yesterday I took the 10,000th photo I have ever taken with my GR. aR0010001by Lord Nikon 12, on Flickr Could be better, could be worse. I am happy they are going diagonally.

Happy Birthday Dusty Chalk!

So I have had this pen for just under 3 weeks now, and have been using it as my primary pen, with the Zebra F-701 with Fisher refill as a backup. My impressions are as follows. The good: The pen its self is great. I was not sure how I would take to the hexagonal barrel, but I find it quite comfortable. It is slightly slimmer than the barrel of the 701, which I knew going into this, and was also a little apprehensive - the 701 was always quite comfortable to write with and this pen is too. I have had Rotrings and the 701, which are both on the heavy side since just about forever and really got used to them. After a few days writing with the 849 it became pretty easy. Although the Rotrings & F701 have a more substantial feel, I think they kind of develop momentum and "get away from you" moving whichever way they feel like... The lighter pen is very controllable. The "silent" clicker is pretty cool. "Silent" is in quotes, because you know, but if you are a habitual pen clicker this pen will probably save your co-workers some aggravation. This pen has what could be the most badass pocket clip EVER put on a $25 pen. Like wow. I'm not sure how durable it is (I don't use pocket clips) but the way the angular band wraps around the hexagonal barrel is really cool. The pen will take a Parker style refill. I got them both to work without any mods (fisher with the little adapter thingy they include) although some reports on the internet say the plastic tops need to be filed down a few mm to fit. The bad: The Goliath refill that the pen comes with is kind of blah. It does not write as dark as the Fisher refill without serious downforce (it might work better in a heavier pen) and it has more drag than the Fisher - which is about the highest I'm willing to put up with. They claim it will run 8000M (600 pages!), but if it writes like this who cares?... The finish on the pen does not feel quite as durable as my old Rotrings. It has not scratched through (yet) but it went from flat black to shiny black in spots within a day of putting it in my pocket with more spots getting shiny since. The pen would look great in gloss black - if it were uniform, but of course since this is wear it's not. The pen is apparently available in "raw" aluminum which may look nicer.

Happy Birthday Carl!

Happy Birthday Peter!

Wen she meats the skaircro their is a fork in the rode.

Happy Birthday Vicki!

Did they reset the VTF after putting the 0.75 & 1.5g weights on the headshell?