nikongod

Happy Birthday luvdunhill

They look like Ultrasones. Which reminds me, I once combined a set of Ultrasone HFI-780 with SFI ortho drivers.

May not be correct, but these? The whole family: http://www.mcmaster.com/#sheet-metal-bushings/=u9znkr 1/4" hole: http://www.mcmaster.com/#8509a18/=u9zn6p

Yesterday I took the 10,000th photo I have ever taken with my GR. aR0010001by Lord Nikon 12, on Flickr Could be better, could be worse. I am happy they are going diagonally.

Happy Birthday Dusty Chalk!

So I have had this pen for just under 3 weeks now, and have been using it as my primary pen, with the Zebra F-701 with Fisher refill as a backup. My impressions are as follows. The good: The pen its self is great. I was not sure how I would take to the hexagonal barrel, but I find it quite comfortable. It is slightly slimmer than the barrel of the 701, which I knew going into this, and was also a little apprehensive - the 701 was always quite comfortable to write with and this pen is too. I have had Rotrings and the 701, which are both on the heavy side since just about forever and really got used to them. After a few days writing with the 849 it became pretty easy. Although the Rotrings & F701 have a more substantial feel, I think they kind of develop momentum and "get away from you" moving whichever way they feel like... The lighter pen is very controllable. The "silent" clicker is pretty cool. "Silent" is in quotes, because you know, but if you are a habitual pen clicker this pen will probably save your co-workers some aggravation. This pen has what could be the most badass pocket clip EVER put on a $25 pen. Like wow. I'm not sure how durable it is (I don't use pocket clips) but the way the angular band wraps around the hexagonal barrel is really cool. The pen will take a Parker style refill. I got them both to work without any mods (fisher with the little adapter thingy they include) although some reports on the internet say the plastic tops need to be filed down a few mm to fit. The bad: The Goliath refill that the pen comes with is kind of blah. It does not write as dark as the Fisher refill without serious downforce (it might work better in a heavier pen) and it has more drag than the Fisher - which is about the highest I'm willing to put up with. They claim it will run 8000M (600 pages!), but if it writes like this who cares?... The finish on the pen does not feel quite as durable as my old Rotrings. It has not scratched through (yet) but it went from flat black to shiny black in spots within a day of putting it in my pocket with more spots getting shiny since. The pen would look great in gloss black - if it were uniform, but of course since this is wear it's not. The pen is apparently available in "raw" aluminum which may look nicer.

Happy Birthday Carl!

Happy Birthday Peter!

Wen she meats the skaircro their is a fork in the rode.

Happy Birthday Vicki!

Did they reset the VTF after putting the 0.75 & 1.5g weights on the headshell?

Do not, I repeat do not watch this video. You have been warned.

I made a new base for the stove/pot using a utensil organizer from Ikea. The MSR Titan Kettle nests comfortably inside of it, and it will fit any of my Alcohol stoves. Even the big Svea military-surplus stove I have. I hope it will also work nicely with a small wood fire inside. Ikea stove base by Lord Nikon 12, on Flickr Ikea stove base by Lord Nikon 12, on Flickr The very heavy looking steel tent stakes are indeed very heavy, and will be replaced with very light titanium stakes sometime.

I dont know if it will be any help, but the odd dial just below the 12'oclock position (from 40 to 0) appears to be a winding indicator. http://elginwatches.org/scans/sales_catalogs/1917_Oskamp-Nolting/m_pg_E3.html Edited: I found this too. http://www.bogoff.com/pocket/6727.html

If you are worried about falling, start off small. Maybe try to just push the bike along the trail until you get the hang of it.

Red Bull Stove by Lord Nikon 12, on Flickr The stove Red Bull Stove by Lord Nikon 12, on Flickr With the pot-stand Red Bull Stove by Lord Nikon 12, on Flickr With the pot The Stove weighs 0.2oz (6g) without the stand. I'm not sure how much the stand weighs... probably a lot.

The BCL is unusual because the output buffer is NOT nested in the global feedback loop. After that, it is closer to a PPA buffer than an M3. http://cdn.head-fi.org/8/87/87579c0c_lovelycubecircuit01.jpg PPA buffer is nicer, and if one were so motivated they *could* convert the PPA pretty easily. Leave out R4, jumper R3, and set gain with R5&R6. The O2 is just off-the-shelf op amps. Not really much for the designer to worry about with class AB. The JRC4556 is actually pretty nice (as far as op amps goes) for driving headphones directly. Its not the amp that people dont like, its that his fanboys came around and said "this is right, and things that dont even begin to operate under the same principles are wrong." There is certainly a place for the O2, but there needs to be a fight so that people can still design things and learn for themselves.

I think the O2 took a lot of the B22's spotlight. Very few people seemed to build the B22 for speakers, which left it as an amp with measurements too good to have any soul (like a tube amp) but not as good as the o2... If you are interested in DIY, comfy wiring mains stuff, and building in general check out the CCKiii if you are thinking about a BCL clone. Very different, but at the same time quite under appreciated.

2 is also the only even prime number and accordingly much cooler than 3. 2 will still never be as cool as 12 though. 3 is a compromise for stability's sake.

Maybe. Is gain of 5 too much with the amp you have now? Gain is gain. Odds are good the answer is yes, even if you dont think so. Very few dynamic headphones need anything more than gain of 2 with a standard 1-2v source, and that is being very generous to the camp of people who think you actually need voltage gain at all (you don't). Since not all amps are stable at gain of 2, lets compromise and go for 3. Yes, 3. Three is a good number. It is prime. And round. And it looks like an "E" backwards. I like the number 3. In addition to being a good number, it is also the largest number that voltage gain for conventional dynamic headphone amps should be.

I found some coarse wire mesh (about 1/2" squares, 22ga? wire) while looking for bricks and formed a simple pot-support out of it. I think it is still a little too tall, but that is easy enough to fix. I was too busy adjusting the little stand/base I built to take any. Plus it was dark. I will take some tonight. I got it to boil 2cups of water in 17.5min, using 1/2oz of alcohol. The stand is still a little too tall, and I need a proper wind-screen. I think with those changes it could speed up, and save a bit of fuel. Although the little wire mesh stand is probably lighter - http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-bin/backpackinglight/forums/thread_display.html?forum_thread_id=27176 This thread ^ probably spells the end of my wire-mesh pot stand design.

I completed "designing" and "built" the alcohol stove with the Red bull can. I did not make a base for it, which is probably (absolutely) important if I actually want to boil water with it... Maybe I have some bricks sitting around I could use. I am debating actually drinking a beer from an aluminum can to obtain a sturdier can for different designs.

This thread makes me want to build an alcohol stove. Or a bunch, as the case may be. Some people at work drink RedBull, so I should have an adequate supply of smallish cans soon.

The stoves themselves are very light, the fuel can be bought at just about any hardware store, alcohol is a renewable resource which keeps the hippies happy, they have no (essential*) moving parts, and there is VERY little residue/smell. They are also easy to build with a soda can**, which fuels a lot of "look at what I built" posts & videos. The downsides are that the stoves just aren't as hot as pressurized fuel stoves, alcohol burns with a "clear" flame in daylight which is a bit of a safety concern, and the energy density of alcohol is lower than fossil fuels. I'm on the fence. For shorter trips in warmer weather alcohol makes sense. Although alcohol will almost always light, I get tired of waiting for it to heat water in the cold. If you need more than a few days-worth of fuel, or are cooking for more than 2 people what you save in the stove gets offset by the worse energy density of alcohols compared to isobutane or fossil fuel. * Some commercial alcohol stoves have a little damper-paddle-thingy to control the flame. If it gets lost the stove still works. **Soda can stoves are prone to getting squashed if you pack them wrong, so be careful there.

If its any help, I am more a fan of MSR stoves - the ability to cook with a standard pot (without buying an adapter thingy) is pretty sweet. I like isobutane stoves when possible - they are simple to use, pretty much zero-maintenance, and usually a touch (or more) lighter than liquid fuel. The downsides are that liquid fuel is more readily available, and works better in the cold. If you plan to fly with the stove things get kind of iffy. Liquid fuel is easier to find when you land, but TSA loves to "confiscate" liquid fuel stoves. I like tents for starting out because of simpler set up. But tarps are SOOOOOO much lighter and better ventilated. Do not skip the sleeping-pad when you start looking at sleeping stuff. This is very important for warmth in addition to comfort.