nikongod

Happy Birthday JP!

Happy Birthday Alejandro! and Billy

Google: "neko site:www.head-case.org" (no quotation marks) returns bunches of info.

If you were really Santa you would figure out a way to do it. Your just an actor! A fraud even. Have you no shame?

I like it a lot.

Happy Birthday Dinny!

Happy Birthday Mikey!

Gamma pro FTMFW. Seriously, one of the most under appreciated STAX. I would just live with however they are subtly fucked up rather than risk damaging them worse.

Happy Birthday Chris!

[slight sarcasm] We must teach them. We have been given this knowledge of how to put together a good fly-in-meet not for our own benefit, but for the benefit of future generations who would no doubt stray from the righteous path without our guidance. I vote as many of us as possible go, and each adopt someone. [/slight sarcasm]

Can-jam, you say. Not associated with RMAF you say? Anyone want to split a room?

Does anyone remember the o-o-orfeius?

The guy (gal) wearing the 009mk3rev4batch3 is smiling, where the guy wearing 009mk3rev4batch2 is not. Very easy visual indicator.

TPA says output impedance is constant 750ohm. Its pretty neat that they did it with only passives in the signal path, but there are equally good cheaper things to build into an amp.

Physics, it works.

The JT attenuator has a constant output impedance to make it work better as a passive preamp with cables longer than 6" . This is why the input impedance is "who knows." It is still kind of pointless here. There are Chinese alternatives with similar step size, and cheaper overall cost - just not constant output impedance that you dont need....

It was either Dana or Gregory. I think Dana. I have an older Gregory Lassen pack (similar to the Baltoro 65) that I really like, but was always curious if Dana was worth it. Ultimately the only thing that *really* matters is how they fit you. If its not comfy, you wont use it enough to wear it out If it does fit you well, you will probably buy a something slightly different to do something slightly different slightly better before you wear it out anyways, because head-case.

As long as the amp stays stable (dyna{whatever} are very stable) yes, drop some gain and spin the knob higher

Assuming (there I go...) that the TAPER of the pot is the same, there should be no change in where the knob sits with a 10K, 25K, 50K, or any other pot. Generally accepted best practice is to use the lowest impedance pot that your source can drive. If your source cant drive 10Kohms (or even less) cleanly & with full bandwidth smash it up with a hammer* and buy something else. *you could also just sell it, I guess.

Hello All. So, I bought the domain name (go me!) and thats cool. In the DIY spirit, I want to learn CSS, and write as much of the code for that as possible - even if right now all I am doing is cobbling together other people's building blocks. I'm cool with that. My problem is that I cant figure out how to get stuff to stop sitting on top of eachother. Like the title bar keeps sitting on top of the main text which depending on my luck overlaps the lefthand navigation. FUUUUUUCK. I uploaded some generic files for a mock website, and the CSS I have been using (as TXT) if anyone could look at them and point out where I messed up I would appreciate it. https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B3oIxZRutUV8NDJMNTlOMUs4dzQ&usp=sharing What I am looking for: I want a linky bar on the top of all pages. Just a few links to various pages I own (DIY, photography, home?) Is it possible to integrate a fixed title into this? How!? On the home page I would like a big fat title, although this can be integrated in the link bar, I guess. Once someone clicks through to DIY or photography I want left-hand navigation within those things. In DIY I want to link to other DIY projects without going back to the main DIY page, in photos to other albums. I think I know how to do this (which just means I am too wrong to know how bad I failed) but you know. Any help is mucho appreciated. Then I want the body text.

I just had an idea for a phase-plug made out of an actual dagger, and speaker screws made out of those little spikes punk-rockers put on their jackets...

Its that crappy music you kids listen to.... I actually had someone tell me that. I assume you mean the bit at the ~2o'clock position - I would not worry. That piece is only there to allow the MFR to "reverse mount" the speaker for certain applications. See image below. Any chance something brushed up against the speaker and moved that? I would be more worried about making sure it does not happen again for fear of what it could do to exposed tweeters.

You should (generally) use the lowest setting possible. It is good practice to start out on the higher voltage settings so you don't blow up meters without protection (maybe better to blow them up, but lets act like its not), but back down to the right (lower) range as you get things dialed in.

I'm thinking of going to this, to hang out with everyone. Is anyone else here going whose name isnt on the list at head-fi? Are there any good photo-spots in Stamford, in November? If I go I will be bringing my bike, so that should be fun.