nikongod

Happy Birthday!

happy new year!

Its here! I played my normal "test" record (my korean record) and Im quite happy with it. Im going to run an old beat up record for a few spins to break it in The little denon test-sheet says that the chanels are 0.35/0.35mv (woot) My last 103 was 0.30/0.32mv.

Happy Birthday!

Happy Birthday!

Boredom struck. rest of album That cartridge has had a long life. It started as a "red." I got it with a Rega Planar 2 a long time ago, and replaced the stylus with a green stylus. Then I did the "longhorn" mod (this is why there is a thin line of glue across the top of grado in the pics) part of the longhorn mod is injecting silicon oil into the coils, which I may have overdone. I peeled off the little metal cover thingy over the coils and here it sits. If I ever buy another new to me grado, the coils are getting potted, or at least varnished together.

Happy Birthday!

This thread made me buy a (second, had one before) denon 103. I cant wait to get it broken in, and modified like my old one. I wonder if it will sound good on the arm on my harris idler (Micro-Trak 303a) I think its worth a shot. I would pass on this one. knowing absolutely nothing about it, it looks like a farly average consumer grade piece of gear. Unless its reallllllly cheap you can do better elsewhere. Keep an eye on craigslist & goodwill type shopes for older stuff.

Happy Birthday!

Happy Birthday Ken!

Drop something heavy on it. Done. Im amazed the actual arm tube isn't broken though. The pulley belongs on the top of the motor shaft. You can see the pulley-less motor in the back left (opposite tonearm) corner of the TT. The motor needs a pulley to hold the belt/rubber band/thread/whatever and set the right speed for the platter. getting the wrong sized pulley for your motor & platter sucks. My money says that any impact that would break a plastic pulley would damage the motor shaft, and you can get motors FAR FAR FAR less than $600. Like my Teres motor, which you should buy even though I have no idea how to mount it to a clearaudio TT. There are a couple Chinese add-on motors that also come in FAR less than $600, and are universal although require that speed be set manually.

I have read in several places that the "unsigned" cable was the RS-1 cable. Perhaps there are 2 unsigned cables. Anyways, the ultrawide bandwidth cable is a piece of work. the individual wires are not bundles of strands as is common, rather there is a solid core of plastic (about 0.5mm) around which the strands are wound. then of course there is an insulating jacket. The 4 wires are all in the main jacket with a few strands of cotton thread between each, and another strand of similar plastic down the center. The overal construction is similar to cardas "clear tubular litz" except there is only a sinlge layer of strands over the core, and the core is solid. Anyone who replaces this cable for any reason other than it being broken is an idiot. ANYONE! Whoever designed this cable spent a ton of time thinking about how to put it together. I have a standard bandwidth cable & RS-1 cable that I got from a well known headphone cable salesman. The standard bandwidth cable has slightly thicker insulation than the RS-1 cable, and the colors are different between the 2 (the insulation colors that is) but the overall construction of the actual wire is pretty plain bundles of copper. I have also dissected the newest 8-strand cable. Im not a fan of how the individual strands are layed out IN the cable with all the "grounds" on one side, and all the "signals" on the other (I know, its a speaker, it dosnt have an inherent ground, I dont care either) I think it would be MUCH better to bundle them in individual mini-quad configurations. OTOH, the 8-conductor design is a nice step forwards as far as cable designs go. On the tangent of OEM's building nice cables: The HD-800 and D5000 cables are both exceptionally well built. ultrasone used ohlibach cable (it was considered a nice cable until meier had that falling out with them, now it may as well be lamp cord to the cable guys) for the ED-9 for sure.

The really cheap speco T-7010 configured as autoformers (10K tap to output of amp, each other tap except 4ohm selectable by switch). One could make up their mind about what they like and do away with the switch, but I cant.

What cable are you using? If its the stock cable the diameter of the plug may interfere with a flange around the jack on some amps. As anohter guess at the same problem for a different reason, is the TRS jack lined up properly with the panel? When the plug isnt all the way in, the left channel plays the right signal, and right does nothing.

They are tall and slender.

Its a pair of transformers. Maybe autoformers. Maybe with loading resistors/networks maybe not. I'l post pictures of my own attempts when I get home. You can get some very solid ideas from the mogran jones clone DIY article/schematics at headwize.

Happy Birthday!

Happy Birthday!

Unhappy Unbirthday

That is how I run the inputs on my balanced OTL monster (the silver ghost). It works great for switching RCA & XLR with a differential pair input stage.

An OLD idler drive. It needs some TLC (obviously) but thats OK for me

click the picture of my dinner at the Cuban resturant to see the whole album. I had an all around great time at the meet. Friday was cool, with the usual pre-game festivities. Perhaps a little too heavy on the pregaming for me, as I was still a little tipsy when the fire alarm went off saturday morning. Toast is the food of the devil. Saturday was cool as expected. I had a GREAT time listening to the Zu speakers, and chatting with the Zu guys. Thanks a bunch for them coming down and sharing this with us. I listened to a little other stuff, and was quiete impressed with the DIY dinamite. Very nice stuff. Sunday was fun, altough quite scaled down from saturday. We drove around a bit, went to the jazz festival and Mike's house. It was a great time.

NOOOOOO!!!!!!!! I hope you feel better!

Do the following until you hate me: Move the PS and or amp backwards and forwards bit by bit (say 1" or so each way to start) to see if that effects noise. If it does, tune it in once you get into the ballpark. Depending on your luck the "non-noise" may be just as good offset 1/4" as 2" another guess would be to rotate the 2 relative to each other just a little. Just a few degrees here and there. As a third guess: have you tried putting the amp and PS on the opposite sides of each other from the way you have them now?

Can someone please bring a power cord and interconnects for me? Thanks.