nikongod

Happy Birthday!

Happy Birthday!

audiogon's contact info can be found, but they hide it. If you click "learn" on the top of the homepage the next page has a link that says "contact a'gon" Sorry to hear you are in this mess, Hope you get out of it OK. As stupid as it sounds (maybe its stupider than even I think) try contacting the embassy for whatever country this guy lives in. They may be able to tell you what the deal is with regards to international wire transfers and this sort of thing. Maybe its a worse idea than I think, so maybe after confirmation from someone else.

Sorry to hear about your car repair troubles Today I shoveled, a lot. Moved the power switch on The Silver Ghost from where the really neat looking neon pilot lamp is now to the front and installed the really neat looking neon pilot lamp. I also reterminated my HD800 with a 4-pin XLR.

Thanks for posting that video, I watched it end to end last night and its quite thought provoking.

I would go to home depot and buy a few packs of screws in "good guess" sizes. ALTERNATELY if you have feet for the things that you are looking to replace take them to home depot (or a better mom and pop shop if you are lucky enough to still have one) and use their screw gauge on the feet.

Happy birthday Jeff!

hd800

I think the SR325 drivers are used as "cores" to modify, and become the magnum drivers. Could be wrong, but the drivers have to come from somewhere.

:jbl:Happy Birthday!

I found a thread about the Raven in the K&K section of audioasylum here that commented on a some people being unable to get enough gain out of the thing without the input/gain stage which got me second guessing the feasibility of running the secondaries like I want to (Reading it a bit more the OP may be based on the LL1680 transformer which explains a lot of that). I guess different peoples' standards of enough gain may differ. Gain of 1/2, 1, and 2 is plenty for me for 32, 150-300 and 600 ohm headphones respectively. After seeing that I was curious if this may not work out well for some reason I had not considered. I can only see it going well but maybe I have tunnel vision from my enthusiasm. I like how switching secondaries works as an effective "gain switch" matched to the target load, I dont need that much gain that I need a gain stage, and the increasing output impedance from setting the transformer up for higher impedance loads dosnt bother me. Did I ignore some key point? Wiring the switches to switch the secondaries will be an interesting challenge (I think it will be the crux problem of this amp), but does anyone think I missed something that should be consided?

Hello Head-Case I am working on an amp using this transformer in a PP output from a 6h30 tube. I would like to know if anyone has had experience with wiring the secondaries in various series/parallel configurations as indicated on the datasheet for different stepdown ratios to drive different load impedances The schematics & articles I could find which use this transformer for headphone use (the Raven, and a few from Andrea Ciuffoli) dont make mention of using the secondaries this way, where other a few others with sowter & "unknown to me iron" do. I think its something worth exploring, but would like to know ahead of time if its a waste of time.

Its really easy to get balanced outs from either input if you have a phase splitter/diff pair integrated into the amp Input transformers are always nice. If feedback loops cross-couple the 2 phases converting to SE may not be so simple. I could not think of a good way to do this on the silver ghost (SE & balanced in, SE&balanced out with global feedback) so I just left it open loop. Assuming the output impedance of the amp is reasonably low: Without something to split phase that accepts SE and balanced inputs I think the easiest thing would be to ground the inputs to the "negative phase amplifiers" when SE inputs are used and make them work as channel specific active grounds to the XLR's and do the TRS output the same way regardless of what input is used. This could all be done easily with a single source selector switch. If the output impedance of the amp is on the OTL tube high side things look bleak without a phase splitter. Using the "negative amp" as an active ground shoots the amp in the foot. Most of the SP amps I have seen fail big time for this when using XLR outs & RCA ins. A couple SP amps used input transformers and avoid this. RSA gets around this on the B52 (and I think the Apache, although why he didnt do the thing above, IDK) with some relays to ground the -pin on the XLR when an RCA input is used. I guess Ray deserves credit for only making the end user touch 1 knob rather than mucking about with switches on the back panel like others, although why none of the OTL tube designers integrate a phase splitter into their amps is beyond me. its still only 1 knob for source selector on the RSA, it just controls a more complicated relay network.

If the output phases are at ground, just figure out a way to get ground up to the outputs. The problem is not really that it cant be done with adapters & dongles. The problem is that these dongles need to be built for one type of amp and once you have built this adapter and set it loose in the wild who knows what people will do with it. Will whoever has this dongle take the 4-pin --> 1/4" adapter which grounds to the shell/chassis and plug it into the second example amp I gave, blowing everything up? Will they take an adapter you built for a specific amp that behaves well when the negative phases are tied together and mount it on an amp that dosnt appreciate that treatment? Who knows. On that note: if you have room for 2*3 pin you have enough panel space for the "dual" 3-pin/1/4"TRS jacks or 1*4pin & 1*1/4"TRS. Every connection on them is separate from the others so you can easily control what goes where and how. If the amp is designed to have the outputs at ground potential just use the ground reference as the return from the SE headphone jack. Depending on what you think about active ground it wont work as well as that, or certainly balanced. Thats OK, if there are XLR's on a single ended amp people will re-terminate their headphones to use them... Its a no-brainer on an amp which is actually balanced. If you built a 4-channel amplifier whose output is not at ground potential (both outputs at say +12.000V to facilitate DC coupling without voltage shifters) and have separate outputs for SE and balanced just cap couple the SE outputs.

tektronix 2445

woot

more or less. Its a cheap rubber mat on top of a cheap felt mat. By themselves neither allows proper VTA with anything I own. I have never gotten around to buying a proper techincs mat to make it work right. UPDATE! I remembered that I had an oracle mat that I got with some other gear. Tried it out. fucking mats. GRRR. I wish that I could not hear a difference. It would make my life sooooooo much simpler. you people in this thread are a bad influence on my wallet.

A couple of the not quite nude Denon 103

On the topic of half-court free-throws! watch me first! watch me second!

Tease. Freddy wants headphones real bad. edited: dyslexia > me

Happy Birthday!

someone did that yesterday. I like having more posts than the total number of posts in the forum

Happy Birthday!

all proceeds to go to cancer research.

They were sold to someone who blew them up. Kudos to Jim for taking them back and avoiding a scene even though it probably cost him a bunch of money. link to FS thread with more details. I stand behind my guess for long term high DC offset. the RS-60 can lift a buisness card with low bass. Lay the RS-60 on a table flat, with a buisness card covering the port. Play a 40-60hz tone (or just play the first minute of prodigy "smack my bitch up") reallllllllly loud. If the buisness card did not lift off of the headphone you are not trying hard enough. Pray anyone cohabiting your residence does not come looking for your new speakers... Sorry I didnt take photos of the insides of the RS-60 but my camera at the time could have sucked a golf ball through a garden hose, except it would probably have failed at that too. They look pretty much like any other brown headband RS-1 from the outside, but do have a touch of cool on the insides. The drivers are still not glued in and should just shake out after pulling the pads off. Maybe push the cable into the cup an inch or 2 too.